another truck having difficulty starting
#1
another truck having difficulty starting
I have a 1971 302 w/dura spark II ignition, for the past two week I've been driving it daily, a few times when I stopped at a store and tried restarting it wouldn't start back up immediately. This morning I went out and it started up however, when I stopped at a store it wouldn't start back up, it turns over but just doesn't start. There was lots of gas in the carb so it could have been flooded, went back after about 3 hours and it started...any ideas I replaced the coil about 3 months ago.
#2
#3
Hmmmm, if the choke plate were stuck, you wouldn't be able to look down into the carb.
If you think it's too much gas then it's possible the needle valve in the float bowl isn't shutting all the way (either some dirt is in it or it's shot/deformed) and raw gas is flowing out of the bowl into the venturi. Or there is a gasket/seal that is gone between the bowl and the upper carb.
If it's flooding, then it's not going to want to start hot.
Remove a couple spark plugs and see what color they are. If they are white, you are burning a little too hot or lean. If they are black you are burning too rich. Brown is just right. Put the plugs back in if they are ok then try to start it. If it doesn't start, remove a plug from one of the four center cylinders and check if it has wet gas on it. If so (and you ARE getting adequate spark) you are flooding, and are going to need to do some carb work.
BUT, you mentioned your coil. I just told another member that about half the new coils you will buy are bad coming off the shelf. I had one - brand new - and it ran fine until the engine got hot, then it would act like it was running out of gas (spitting and popping) and quit. Your coil not firing would explain the unburned gas as well.
Standard coils are filled with oil and for some reason, someone who is making these things is not putting enough oil in them to insulate them properly. I solved this by getting a "Flame Thrower" Epoxy/solid packed coil. Problem solved. Food for thought
If you think it's too much gas then it's possible the needle valve in the float bowl isn't shutting all the way (either some dirt is in it or it's shot/deformed) and raw gas is flowing out of the bowl into the venturi. Or there is a gasket/seal that is gone between the bowl and the upper carb.
If it's flooding, then it's not going to want to start hot.
Remove a couple spark plugs and see what color they are. If they are white, you are burning a little too hot or lean. If they are black you are burning too rich. Brown is just right. Put the plugs back in if they are ok then try to start it. If it doesn't start, remove a plug from one of the four center cylinders and check if it has wet gas on it. If so (and you ARE getting adequate spark) you are flooding, and are going to need to do some carb work.
BUT, you mentioned your coil. I just told another member that about half the new coils you will buy are bad coming off the shelf. I had one - brand new - and it ran fine until the engine got hot, then it would act like it was running out of gas (spitting and popping) and quit. Your coil not firing would explain the unburned gas as well.
Standard coils are filled with oil and for some reason, someone who is making these things is not putting enough oil in them to insulate them properly. I solved this by getting a "Flame Thrower" Epoxy/solid packed coil. Problem solved. Food for thought
#5
Since the 45K is a Flame Thrower II and it didn't say that on the Amazon site, they payed for the return shipping with a full refund, I then ordered the 40K unit ($26.40) and should have that tomorrow. I'll let you know if there is a problem with that.
Here is the application chart http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx
#6
I wonder if you have enough spacing between the engine and the carb? I remember a member having the same problem as you and somebody talking about the carb getting to hot and essentially boiling gas in the carb that would then condense in the intake and flood the engine when trying to start after running into a story. I cant remember the exact reasoning or thread but this is a possibility.
As far as the flamethrower goes, I agree with Julie (As per usual). You can get them for 6 volt systems, which one is best for you depends on a few things like which engine you are running (6 or 8 cylinder) and the like. I would email or call Pertronix and tell them what you are running and they will tell you which of there products will work best for you. Good luck.
As far as the flamethrower goes, I agree with Julie (As per usual). You can get them for 6 volt systems, which one is best for you depends on a few things like which engine you are running (6 or 8 cylinder) and the like. I would email or call Pertronix and tell them what you are running and they will tell you which of there products will work best for you. Good luck.
#7
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later...usually sooner, the module overheats, burns out. Now the engine will not re-start.
Since the module fails when it overheats, removing it...then taking it to an autoparts store to be tested...usually doesn't work...unless the little darlin' has failed altogether.
DuraSpark was first introduced in model year 1974, so...there is no such thing as DuraSpark prior to this model year.
There is more than one module: To ID what module it is, above where the wires fed out is a colored plastic square...which is an EZ way to ID which module is which.
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later...usually sooner, the module overheats, burns out. Now the engine will not re-start.
Since the module fails when it overheats, removing it...then taking it to an autoparts store to be tested...usually doesn't work...unless the little darlin' has failed altogether.
DuraSpark was first introduced in model year 1974, so...there is no such thing as DuraSpark prior to this model year.
There is more than one module: To ID what module it is, above where the wires fed out is a colored plastic square...which is an EZ way to ID which module is which.
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#8
Bill that's what it's been doing I'm currently at step #2 so I guess I'll invest in a module; Juiles I checked for a flame thrower & couldn't find a one with the epoxy filling the website says they are backlogged, so I went with an MSD oil filled with the same specs as the FT, so far it's starting everytime, it even appears to be running better (could be my imagination).
#9
Bill that's what it's been doing I'm currently at step #2 so I guess I'll invest in a module; Juiles I checked for a flame thrower & couldn't find a one with the epoxy filling the website says they are backlogged, so I went with an MSD oil filled with the same specs as the FT, so far it's starting everytime, it even appears to be running better (could be my imagination).
On 1974/87 F100/350's, the module is mounted on the left fender inner apron just in front of the firewall.
Dunno what year vehicle you have this DuraSpark system in, but you want to keep the module as faaaar away from the exhaust manifolds as possible.
#10
Super, I'm glad it's starting up for you now. And it's probably not your imagination!
But Heed Bills warning. The signs of failure of both the coil and the Duraspark are exactly the same. And when one is going, the other may not be far behind. At the moment, the new coil may be "carrying" the duraspark....Just keep an eye on it.
But Heed Bills warning. The signs of failure of both the coil and the Duraspark are exactly the same. And when one is going, the other may not be far behind. At the moment, the new coil may be "carrying" the duraspark....Just keep an eye on it.
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