Had to change the fuel pump over the weekend and figured I would share the experience with you all. I have a 2000 F150 4.2 V6 with ~115k on it. The truck had began to not start every once in a while when it was most inconvenient for me. Usually after I tried to start it 10 or 15 times I would finally hear the fuel pump kick on and it would start right up. I tried to research which method was best to change the pump and I got mixed reviews. Some were saying pull the bed off and some were saying drop the tank but most were agreeing that it wasn’t much fun. I decided to drop the tank because it was just myself and my dad doing the job. It would be a challenge for us to lift the bed off by ourselves. Once we got started, we decided to remove the driveshaft from the rearend and swing it out of the way. We took 2 floor jacks and pit a 2x12 square on top to even out the load. One jack in the front of the tank and one in the very back. I went ahead and removed the filler hoses (2) before we lowered anything and then thetank was ready to drop some. I was then able to remove the bolts holding the straps up there (impact earned it’s keep here). We lowered the tank about 6” and disconnected the vent lines, fuel lines, and electrical connectors. You need to make sure you have a fuel line disconnect tool ($8). The tank was then free and after we lowered it down all the way, we pulled the tank out from the truck (make sure you jack the truck up enough and the tank can stay on the jacks.) Once the tank was out, we removed the pump and sending unit and replaced the pump. The install was the reverse of taking it apart. One thing to mention is I just replaced the pump, not the whole sending unit assembly. This brought the cost down to right around $100 for the pump and $15 or so for the little screen (Car Quest) instead of $423 quoted from ford (they only sell the whole assembly). The parts guy also said there were 2 pumps available for that year range and one has 3/32” connectors and one has 1/4” connectors. He was nice enough to let me take both and figure out what one I needed and take the other one back later. The 3/32” seemed more like the original but they both had an adaptor to go from the different connector to the actual connector from ford that was different yet. Moral of this story is that either one would have worked. After everything was back together, I primed the pump a few times and it started right up no problem. The whole job probably took about 2.5 hours and it has started up and ran great for the past couple days now without a glitch. Overall, not as bad as i thought it would be.
hey bro I'm kinda having the same problem with my truck 2003 F-150 4.2. 114000 miles on it, The whole problem started this afternoon. When I went to go start my truck and it wouldn't start I messed around with my truck today for about a Hour and everytime I went to turn the key on my Odometer read all dashes and wouldn't start. so I just kept turning the key on and off till I noticed that the Odometer read the Mileage again and then it would Fire right up.
kinda curious did you notice this same problem when it wouldn't start on your truck? Was the Odometer reading All dashes or was it Normal?
Thank you for your time anything info would be much appreciated.
im having this same no start prob where the fuel pump doesnt turn on. my batt seems to be getting weak as well causing the gauges to reset almost every time i try to start it. Does a weak batt cause this or should i replace the pump?
mine never had the odometer issue. I'd say the first thing to change would be the battery or at least clean the terminals and get the battery tested. The no start could mean the fuel pump is starting to get weaker but you need a good battery. one thing i also noticed was the fuel pump got pretty loud at the end. Didn't really notice until i got the new pump and it was darn near silent. There was some other guy on here I think that had to hook up jumper cables every time his truck wouldn't start because the pump wasn't pumping. You might try and look him up.