One-piece Drive Shaft and Blocks
#1
One-piece Drive Shaft and Blocks
I have a one-piece drive shaft in my 04 f-250 SB SD. Currently I have F-350 blocks in the rear but will be exchanging those for 5 in tappered blocks to raise the back ~1.5 inches over the current level ride I have today.
Question: given the one-piece drive shaft, I have no carrier bearing to shim. The new blocks are tappered for pinion angle I believe. Are there any other drive-shaft/geometry issues that I should be aware of? Will the on-piece shaft compensate for some subtle differences in geometry?
Thanks for any help.
Question: given the one-piece drive shaft, I have no carrier bearing to shim. The new blocks are tappered for pinion angle I believe. Are there any other drive-shaft/geometry issues that I should be aware of? Will the on-piece shaft compensate for some subtle differences in geometry?
Thanks for any help.
#2
You're probably going to run into a driveshaft geometry issue. Your pinion yoke angle should match you're output yoke angle within 2 degrees. The pinion angle can be slightly lower. You'll probably need to lower your transfercase or get a double cardan type driveshaft.
More than a few degrees and u-joints won't last long.
More than a few degrees and u-joints won't last long.
#3
Check the u-joint on the output of the transfer case. It is probably a double cardan type joint.
If so, you can do that rear lift with the tapered blocks. Just make sure that the pinion points slightly downwards. This is necessary because the pinion will tilt upwards when you apply power to the drivetrain. This becomes worse when you add tall blocks.
Lou Braun
If so, you can do that rear lift with the tapered blocks. Just make sure that the pinion points slightly downwards. This is necessary because the pinion will tilt upwards when you apply power to the drivetrain. This becomes worse when you add tall blocks.
Lou Braun