You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Ok as we all know Michigan gets snow and our roads are covered with salt during the winter months. So, I was wondering how you guys(and gals if there are some) keep your trucks in the best shape during the winter months, and how to prevent the salt from deteriorating your truck? Any tips or tricks?
Personally I wash my truck once a week as long as the temp is at 32 or higher. I make sure the bottom gets a thorough washing as well. My frame shows surface rust but nothing more. Pretty good for a daily driver at 100,000 miles. I am planning on pulling the bed this year and cleaning the rust on the frame and then treating it with a rust preventer.
__________________
2006 F250 Lariat CC SB; Dash Daq
You'll end up having to cut the bolts. I haven't heard of anyone having enough good luck to not snap a half a dozen bits trying to get the bolts out. Other than that it's fairly simple.
__________________
2006 F250 Lariat CC SB; Dash Daq
Make sure you use impact sockets if you can on the bed bolts.
That should save you a heartache.
Some weld the top of the bolt to the bed also to keep it from popping up while wrenching.
__________________
Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
wash 2 times a week to include underbody, then in spring remove
bed clean rust off then paint and undercoat it takes me two weeks
to get truck cleaned, ready and looking good.
__________________ http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=170058&.jpg ( TIM ) 2005 F 250 KING RANCH SUPER DUTY 4 DR. CREW CAB. 6.0L PSD. custom paint,custom sound system,24"wheels,nerf bars,hard cover with wing,custom hood.and alot more. took 42 trophies.
I was thinking about building a deal to high pressure wash the underside of my truck that i just drive over after i've hooked it up to my big power washer.
I'm not sure what kind of nozles to use yet, seeing as i want a round cone, not a flat cone.
I'll build it out of some of the black pipe stuff, put it on rollers so i can roll it around like a dolly under the truck.
was thinking about building some sorta hooked style J or some sort to wash the fenders as well, its a beotch getting the top lip of the rear fenders.
__________________
Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
as said, keeping the salt off with a quick spray helps; as for underneath, i usually paint the underside of my truck 3 times a year.... once in the spring after a trip to the dunes to sandblast all the salt off, once mid-summer, then i -try- to get one on before salt season. i just use the .99 cent cans of flat black from wal mart; most i've used at once is 8 cans in the spring before a show, so for <$10 you cant beat it if you have a couple hours.
You just paint the whole underbody then? Do you have to clean the surface rust off with steel wool or sandpaper before hand? Thanks for the replies guys!
yeah i use a wire wheel on my drill, then just wipe it with a dry towel. it isn't best-of-show quality and doesn't get body-panel-smooth, but it does look nice when using the flat black... gloss makes it look worse.
you can use truck bedliner material for the rocker panels and the wheel wells. Keep it away from moving parts, because the only thing more stuck than a rusted nut is a bedlinered nut.
__________________
A modern classic 4x4 with 351 cubic inches of get you there in time.
Last edited by skyfox10; 12-09-2009 at 09:59 PM.
Reason: typo
I'ma ahve to go pick up the paint and wash the truck on the way home on a nice day and get to work in the important spots. Poor sucker was all slushed up when i got home yesterday. =*(
__________________
Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
WD40 the wheel wells. the wet salty spray from the road just rolls off.
__________________
1997 Ford F-250HD CC SB Auto 4X4 3.55s 7.3 PSD Rif-Raf 6637, Stancor GPR, MBRP 3" DP to Stainless 4" straight exhaust. 95,000 original miles and counting. Michigan Chapter
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
