Running stock wheels which could be why as well. although with stock you'd think I would have the clearance.

 

I do not intend to replace the wheels at this time as cost is an issue.

 

You can easily run a 285/75-17 with no issues at all. Plus they aren't too wide for the stock wheels-no real wear issues. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of choices in that size. Nitto and Toyo both have it though in their A/T's. I also know that the Toyos are still E rated for carrying capacity. Food for thought.

 

I had 315/70/17 on stock wheels with no lift and had no rubbing issues at all, even off road...
I still have that size tire but have since installed a 6" lift and new wheels, the lift is a big help offroad with the extra clearance! stock it is easy to scrap the front or back end of these trucks! the shocks I used came with the kit which are the Procomp MX6 6 way adjustable and work very well.
BFG AT's are great tires!! have had them on all my trucks for years. if you are doing alot of driving on gravel AT tires will pick up gravel in the tread and fling them out once you get back on the highway and can leave some nasty paint chips...just a thought for ya but other than that they work awsome and last alot longer than MT tires.
I would vote on an Air locker but they aren't cheap! a limited slip would be better than stock and not too bad on the check book...

 

I recommend the Nitto Terra Grappler in either size LT285/70R17 (32.76 inches tall) or in size LT285/75R17 (33.86 inches tall) depending on how far you go with the stock suspension. Both sizes are "E" rated and are approved for your 17X7.5 wheels. These tires have a good balance between voids (for off-roading) and sipping (for ice/snow conditions).



As for shocks, I recommend the Bilstein 5100's. They are zinc coated and will endure the harsh salt winter roads in your area of the country. They are also designed for mild off-roading but still provide a quality ride on the street.

 

An interesting option from another post is to get a set of chains to put on for increased traction when you're in the goo. Then just take them off when you're done...

 

thanks for all of the input so far

 

1) I do too! The OEM rear limited slip isn't much help off road, especially is you articulate the rear axle much. If you find yourself crossing gullies or climbing rutted inclines that can unload opposing tires often, even an aftermarket limited slip will leave you frustrated. The problem with limited slips is that will all reach a point at which the torque baising capabilites are overcome. Clutch plate, cone clutch, or helical gear: it's all the same. It will bias torque to its capability and then release the low-traction tire. Some can stall that point better than others. It limits slip and not completely eliminates it.

The Ford 10.5" rear axle in our truck doesn't have a lot of suport for locking differentials. The last time I checked it was either the Detroit No-Spin if you want an automatic locking differential or the ARB air locker if you're interested in the selectable locking differential. While many off road teams all over the globe run the ARB, I'm not ready to buy all the related components needed to make it work: air line, fittings, compressor, pressure tank, etc. The Detroit, on the other hand, could affect handling. I've never driven a Super Duty with an auto locker so I can't say it whether or not it'll negatively change the way my truck drives on the street.


2) What part of your suspension needs upgrading? Were you limited by stock approack/breakover/departure angles or was the ride not satisfactory?


3) Betters tires can make a world of difference. Just don't get too caught up in thinking everything is about tires. If you're running trails that flex out your suspension and aren't dominated with lots of loose sand or deep mud, then lockers will be more important than tires. It won't matter if you have Super Swamper Boggers if you can't get power to a wheel that has weight on it. I had factory street tires and then upgraded to 35" mud terrain tires. I still can't cross one gully because I can't get engine power to the wheels that need it. And going in head-in isn't an option because of approach & departure angles.

With that said, tires do make a huge difference. Personally, I'm not a fan of A/T tread tires. While they're better than factory tires, they still load up badly in mud. They're noiser than OEM tires. The problem I have with them is that they're good, but not quite good enough. They have a lot of the drawbacks of more aggressive tires on road with fewer benefits off road of the M/T tread tires. Kind of like a limited slip where I 'wheel.

M/T tires have come very far in technology. More and more M/Ts are sipped for wet road traction. Tread patterns are no longer just look like tractor tires back in the 70s but are designed by computers to minimize road noise, channel water, and self clean debris from the tread. The tires I'm running now are mud grips, and I promise you they behave better on wet roads than any other tire I've ever run including every generation of BFG All Terrain and every generation of BFG Mud Terrain except for the most current KM2 which I have not personally run.

If you really spend 35% of your time off road, then I feel like you'd be disappointed by a set of A/Ts. The only thing that may provide additional consideration is that you live where it snows. Still, the advantages I recognize on wet roads still likely has benefits in snow & slush.


I know I just posed a book, but I really enjoy hitting up trails in my Super Duty. And I'm sharing what works for me. Let us know how things go once you start modding!

 

I would agree that you should start with tires, then see how the truck works for what you are facing. Lockers and lifts are cool, but you may not really need them.

No on mentioned it, but it could also be that your rear differential has too much friction modifier in it. You might want to change the fluid and add a smaller amount if the friction modifier to get your LS differential to act properly.

 

I wonder if this is the case in my truck. Everytime I have spun the rear tires its only been 1 wheel spinning. Seems like the factory LS isnt really doing anything, IDK. I hate draining fluid with only 6k on it though.

How about selectable lockers up front? I havent really checked whats available yet. But I have always felt that most your traction comes from up front. I'd like to have an onboard air system anyhow, very handy to have especially if you have a lot of air tools.

 

Look in to the Hankook Dynapro ATm's. I put them on my 99 last winter when I was in Colorado and their grip in the snow (both powder & heavy wet) was excellent! I don't do much offroading, but what little I did was handled very well by these tires. I have 3.73s, limited slip in the rear and no problems going through drywashes, gravel, etc.

 

When I changed out my diff fluid with Mobil 1 75W-140LS last week (73K) I followed the directions and took the truck out for a spin to see if it was binding BEFORE I added any friction modifier. It wasn't binding so I didn't ad any.
I'm going to OBX next week for a little surffishing and I'll let you know how it turns out...

Another point that no one may want to hear but if you're into SERIOUS ofroading the SD's are really not a good choice. They're just too big, weigh too much and don't have good approach & departure angles. There are alot of better alternatives...

 

Good tires and maybe 3" of lift would help immensly,,,start with tires for sure,,bigger, taller traction type tires are going to get the truck up higher,,and give it atleast some traction,,,then you will findout your trucks other short cummings,,,like a locker and maybe some lift to help approach and departure angles.

EDIT: I see papadelogan has Hankook DynaPro AT tires,,,well I have the Hankook DynaPro MT tires for my winter set of tires,,Studded for better traction,,,these tires are great for traction,,,in Mud and Snow,,some road Noise,,my Hankooks are 285/70/17, 33" tall load range D at 3195 lbs each,,,,pd $659.00 to my door from Ebay for 4 tires!

This is my 3rd year to run them,,,on my truck now,,show some wear,,about 10k miles on them,,,will see how they do this winter and how they wear.

 

Tires and a good limited slip will make a world of difference. There is a selectable front locker. The shocks will help with the ride. A lift will help with breakover angles etc. If you just hunting and not trying to run the rubicon I would think simply getting a more aggressive tire would suffice. The bfg kms I have made a huge difference over at tires I've had. I hardly use 4x4 unless I'm in some pretty nasty stuff.

 

i have a leaffront end and i had 285-75/16 before i put on the 13.5" wide 33 inch swampers and i'm running stock height and i don't rub, i tried out a set of 315's before the swampers and they only rubbed when turning into a large dip or bump.