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Cracked head or injector sleeve

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  #1  
Old 11-14-2009, 08:02 AM
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Cracked head or injector sleeve

I started to panic last night,couldn't get on FTE so I went on a diff. site and threw out this.....
About a week ago I started to smell raw diesel, couldn't find the source.
Yesterday I had an appointment for the recall, so when the hood was up I looked again. I had fuel on and around the passenger side battery. Figured the fuel bowl drain went south but no problem, I got the mechanics set of o- rings.
When I climbed in to start fixin, I noticed the Degas bottle was FULL. Well now we know why I smelled fuel, About mid summer I just changed out my elc.
So what is bad 1 or 2 cylinder heads or, as someone on that powerstroke site suggested, a cracked injector sleeve. I did check the oil and thankfully did not see/smell evidence of fuel.
02 7.3 150,000 miles not really any upgrades besides 203* thermostat and recently rebuilt the turbo and added a WW
Thanks in advance Jeff
 
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:38 AM
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It sounds like you are on the right track unfortunately. Never had to do mine (knock on wood). Here is a good link: Damn leaking fuel injector cup R&R project. I also remember seeing a good thread on here a while back about the injector cups. I'll see if I can find it.

Here is the other thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...llar-bolt.html
 
  #3  
Old 11-14-2009, 12:03 PM
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IMO the only way to know is to replace the sleeves and clean out the cooling system.
With the proper tools it's a lot easier than pulling the heads anyway.
 
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Old 11-14-2009, 04:07 PM
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Just something to think about, when you buy new sleeves, see if they will provide a rental tool for you to use. I went that route so i dodnt have to do any looking. Paid a little more for them, but no headaches looking for more tool.
 
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:05 PM
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I checked the local Ford dealer, 20 for the sleeve 17 for the o-rings. Don't know where else to look for them.
 
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:41 PM
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Swamp's Diesel Performance

Here is where i got mine. It is the only thing i ever bought from them but it was good service. I think it was around 120 for all the cups, tool, and shipping. I just sent the tool back when i was done. And best i can remember, i think i bought my orings from ED. Here is his link.

www.y2kfordparts.com
I got some pics of doing mine. My motor was out but if you need any pics or anything feel free to ask.
 
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:02 AM
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I don' know why I didn't think about Ed, I'll check. I have about 4 days to make this happen, plus I have to finish a roof that I have started for a customer, so availability is a concern. I did open it up last night, couldn't stand waiting and wondering anymore, the first injector out showed me a bad lower o-ring. About half way around it, the outer shell kinda had peeled off.
I'm guessing that's why my mileage has been down this summer. I'm thinking about taking it in to a diesel shop though, and trying to talk him into letting me tear it apart
and then he can take care of the sleeves. I may be peeing into the wind but it's worth a shot. I'm a self employed carpenter, so I need my truck bad. And we all need to try to save $
 
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:47 PM
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I guess I was right, he wouldn't let me tear it apart. I guess I don't blame him, they're slow with work too and then the insurance. I took it in mon. morn., still don't have it back. I think it was best to take it in though, by the time I figured parts I was at 300 and
still didn't have the tap or installer. He said he would charge me a grand, which still hurts. I have dealt with him before, good guy. Thanks for the responses. Jeff
 
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:33 PM
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Gettin ready to do cups on my 02, checked the local dealer, $12 for each cup, and $10bucks for each injector ring kit, gonna do a pan and a rear main seal while i have the motor out, i know i dont have to remove the engine but i think its gonna be a lot easier, plus i have been debating changing the pan also, its not lookin real great, might not last much longer... and while its out do the rear main, turbo ped. o rings and do a reg return with fuel bowl delete...
 
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by new2diesel
I started to panic last night,couldn't get on FTE so I went on a diff. site and threw out this.....
About a week ago I started to smell raw diesel, couldn't find the source.
Yesterday I had an appointment for the recall, so when the hood was up I looked again. I had fuel on and around the passenger side battery. Figured the fuel bowl drain went south but no problem, I got the mechanics set of o- rings.
When I climbed in to start fixin, I noticed the Degas bottle was FULL. Well now we know why I smelled fuel, About mid summer I just changed out my elc.
So what is bad 1 or 2 cylinder heads or, as someone on that powerstroke site suggested, a cracked injector sleeve. I did check the oil and thankfully did not see/smell evidence of fuel.
02 7.3 150,000 miles not really any upgrades besides 203* thermostat and recently rebuilt the turbo and added a WW
Thanks in advance Jeff
Hi, I can speak as an experienced "fuel in the degas bottle" expert. I'm in Ct and this past Feb I was running from central Fl and heading to Myrtle Beach for a 2 week stopover. Just crossing the Florida Georgia border I smelled fuel, I thought it was from a line of trucks I was passing. Long story short, when I got to MB, next morning I smelled fuel, popped the hood and the degas bottle, full of fuel.
Got the truck to a stealership and they started checking for leaks. Pulled all injectors and the cups looked good. Pressure tested with a overnite leakdown and it lost 0 pounds. They where ready to pull cups and replace but I didn't feel that was the problem, anyway, it was an internal crack in the fuel rail(head). I was running out of time and it was a 10 day wait to get the heads magnafluxed so I chose to pull both heads and replace. My oil pan was pretty crudy and wouldn't be long before leaking(99 SD) so I had them pull the engine to do the heads and pan. While it was down, I had main seals done along with some clutch work. $6800 and 2 weeks later I was back on the road. Not saying that your problem is the above described, just giving you another senerio that it could be. Would hate to see you get it all back together and have a cracked fuel rail.
 
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:17 PM
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Been back on the road over a month since sleeves were replaced and everything seems good. Now since it was in it doesn't want to start in cold, only if plugged in or otherwise warm. If I would have done the job I was gonna put in new glow plugs, but the guy who did it only replaced one. I'm guessing a couple might not be plugged in, been cold here so I'll just try to keep it plugged in and warm til I can pull it apart.
 
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. On the cold start check out your glow plug relay. There will be two big post on it. The one on the passanger side of the relay should be hot all the time and when you turn the key on the post towards the drivers side should be hot. Here is a pic courtesy of Chris: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...184644&width=0

The yellow/brown wires should be hot with the key on for up to two minutes.
 
  #13  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:29 PM
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guys...FYI...international sells the sleeves and o-rings much cheaper than ford!!
 
  #14  
Old 01-04-2010, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by new2diesel
Been back on the road over a month since sleeves were replaced and everything seems good. Now since it was in it doesn't want to start in cold, only if plugged in or otherwise warm. If I would have done the job I was gonna put in new glow plugs, but the guy who did it only replaced one. I'm guessing a couple might not be plugged in, been cold here so I'll just try to keep it plugged in and warm til I can pull it apart.

Glad you got away with just sleeves and didn't have to go through what I did.
TDPower got you going in the right direction, my truck is a 99 and over it's life span so far I have replaced 3 relays.
 
  #15  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:48 PM
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I just replaced all eight cups in mine, and same problem, wont start when cold, was wondering as well if i pushed the connector down all the way on the glow plugs, it will start fine when plugged in or if not plugged in if i hook up the charger it will fire right up..
 


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