If you have the 4 post FICM (remove little cover on top below are 4 or 7 screws). Check the voltage on the screw closest to the fender and ground if less than 45 volts engine running you most likely can repair it yourself and no reprogramming needed (dont touch probe from screw to the case).
Remove FICM from truck. Remove the following; small cover on top of ficm, 4 screws that are under cover, 6 screw on other side holding case together. Split case. Re solder places circled in pics. Put back together and check volts.
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa236/DrQuad/FICM/

 

Can't open pics

 

Try new link.

 

I was planning to open it up after I got a new one. i will be doing it prior to buying one now. Thanks

 

I wish I knew that before mine went out.I've gone through two of them.

 

DrQuad, Thanks for the post !!

Went ahead and took my FICM out that waas reading 32 or 34 volts last weekend. ( don't remember which, just knew it was a gonner soon)

I saw right away that there was a cracked solder joint on one on the large capacitors. A few others looked like a cold joint. Reflowed all of them, had to add a touch of solder to a few, and ended up with nice pretty shiny joints.
I would add to DrQuad's great idea the other solder points in white.

<a href="http://s595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/desertt5/?action=view&current=ficmfix.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/desertt5/ficmfix.jpg" border="0" alt="FICM"></a>


Reinstalled and found 48.5 volts with key on. 37 volts running. Let it idle for a few and at times it might see 38 volts. Obviously better than it was, but would like better. The big Capacitors (these are what the solder connects to) are 330 uF 63V. I plan to price them out and replace those to see what it does. Figure even $20 for caps to try ain't bad considering the cost of a rebuilt FICM is around $350 and maybe $125 for programming.

Will post again once I find some caps and prices.

Thanks again DrQuad

It seems to be the same for 4 screw and 7 screw FICM. Mine looked just like DrQuad's and ,ime is a 7 screw.

 

subscribed.... id like to get a bad one to play with

 

Ive never soddered a board before. Special soder? Give us ID10Ts the whole picture.

 

I only soldered the caps first and gained 10 v. Yes I should have circled both cap legs, thanks for catching that. When I resoldered the resistors on the other side I was back to 48V.

 

ok so can you also explain how to do the 52v mod? I have a dead ficm sitting in my tool box drawer I wanna jack with.

 

I may pull it back out today and do the other side. The joints looked good is why I didn't yesterday. Can't hurt.

foul1, I used some regular silver solder on mine. I need to get a hotter iron though. My biggest one broke the tip off yesterday after it fell off the bench onto concrete . Really don't know how to "tell" you to solder over the internet. If close i could do it for you.

cheezit, I am assuming they change out the caps for the 52v mod. I could be way off though. Would be easy to reproduce if I had one, but I don't think the people doing it would like that very much.

Looks like caps are less than $1. Looks like DrQuad is responsible for my project lis growing Now if I can get this old one back to 48V I can afford to get it reprogrammed.

By the way, if you have a reprogrammed FICM that dies, looks like you can split, replace the voltage side and keep your programming. Just good to know.

 

I sure you could search youtube for some good pcb solder lessons.
Ya If I had a modded one I too could figure out how to copy it.
Ill keep on the hunt for that though
and if caps are $1 each I may do some harder digging around.

 

Ok if i remove the ficm to examine it will I have to reprogram? On the sodder your just heating up the cracks and adding more material correct?

 

Ok if i remove the ficm to examine it will I have to reprogram. nope you will be good there

 

Foul1, yes basically you are just reflowing the solder. Overtime solder joints can form cracks. You will see a very small crack between the solder and the post of the leg of the cap. I tried to get a pic of mine, but couldn't get it to focus close enough or was too far away to really see the problem.

Be sure to use flux whne soldering. It is required to spread the heat evenly. Never thought of youtube for soldering. great idea.

Mine is not getting pulled back out today. 37* and wind blowing. Plus the Ex will not fit in the garage. It did sem to deal with the cold driving today better.