I agree. When I do this again I will probably use the Ford Racing Adapter instead of the remote oil filter kit.


I have two other 460 equipped trucks with the stock set-up and neither one has shown any signs of heat exchanger failure... yet. My 1997 F-350 Dually has 170K miles on it and my 1995 F-250 4x4 has 130K, they are both fine so far.

The one that failed was my 1996 F-350 SRW with 145K on it. I guess you can't predict heat exchanger failure by mileage. Since I check the oil and coolant often I'm sure I'll catch any heat exchanger problems on the other two trucks in plenty of time.

I think installing a bigger radiator would be much more effective at cooling the engine than adding an oil cooler to compensate for the loss of the OEM heat exchanger. The Ford Racing Adapter should be fine in that case.

Most important is a very good transmission cooler. That and a bigger radiator would be my priorities for building a tow vehicle that doesn't overheat.

Btw my dual filter kit is still holding up despite overheating both the engine and transmission while towing a 6000 lb. tractor on a 16 ft. flatbed up some very steep hills. The radiator blew a hose and the tranny blew the front seal but the dual filter kit was fine.

I replaced the hose and the tranny seal and the truck still runs and shifts perfect. Gotta love the 460/E4OD combo!

 

I can't say for certain how much it helps cooling, but synthetic oil definitely retains more viscosity at higher temps and lasts much longer than regular oil.


I'm a 100% believer in synthetic oil. I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic in all my trucks for years and I've never had an internal engine part wear out.


Here's what first sold me on it; I once bought a 1978 Ford E-250 van with 190K miles on it. The 351 engine had a worn connecting rod bearing which would knock on start-up but go quiet in a few seconds when the oil pressure came up. I put Mobil 1 synthetic in it and drove it until I sold it with 310K miles on it. The 3-second rod knock never went away, but it never got any worse.

 

I am also a big fan of synthetic fluids. I had an older chevy that had some crankcase pressure issues due to low tension rings. I would get smoke out of the valve cover breathers. The synthetic oil does not burn like conventional oil so it helped with that issue.

For better cooling I installed an aluminum radiator. http://www.andysautosport.com/produc...s__CC1451.html

 

I've read some posts on not using synthetic on these older engines as they cause or result in oils leaks

 

The synthetic oil will find any leaks but those should be repaired anyways. I don't think that is a disqualifier but something you should be aware of. Unless you like lubricated seals, lol.

 

Thanks for that link. I see the 4-row Champion aluminum radiator is not available for my 1997 F-350 Dually. How is that 3-row working out for you? Is there a big difference from stock?

 

I am just getting the truck back on the road from a complete steering overhaul, I will let you know.

 

Thanks. Looks great!


I've never had that happen in any of the older engines I've used synthetic in, no matter how many miles on them.

There are many myths floating around about synthetic oil. Some of them may have been true back when synthetic first came out years ago, but there have been many improvements in the formulas since then. The leaking issue was addressed a long time ago by adding an ingredient that swells gaskets like regular oil does.

One myth that's never been true is the one that says once you use synthetic, you can't go back to regular oil. Another is that you can't mix synthetic with regular oil. Both these are, and have always been, pure BS.

 

I was inspired by this thread to give this a whirl but I have a question that I haven't seen addressed here (may have missed it). Here it is. I purchased the Summit house brand model with the aluminum straight ahead connectors (mistake?). Both of the adapters have an In and and Out designation. So, what is the proper way to route the hoses? My guess is:
Out on the block goes to In on the remote.
Out on the remote goes to In on the block.
I've heard that some oil filters have a check valve that enforces a specific direction of flow so getting this wrong could have dire consequences.

 

You have it right.

 

I must have had to much to drink the night I made this comment!

The return side DOES NOT go to sump, It goes to the oil galleys in the block. That way you have clean, filtered, and pressurized oil going to your bearings.

I'm throwing that sauce in the trash if it makes me write stuff like that!

 

Not to hijack, but Mobile One is not what it once was. The base stock they use was changed a few years back and is now inferior. Lots of info out there about this topic and I warn people to research it. In the testing I saw by a university many conventional oils now out perform Mobile One in wear and longevity.

Pennzoil Ultra rates very highly and is what I have switched to after using M1 for a long time. It is made from natural gas believe it or not. One of the best in all testing is made from animal fat, G-Oil. Best conventional oils are almost as good as the best syn and better for some applications like vehicles that are rarely driven and sit a lot.

Don't just accept that Mobile One is still the gold standard based on the name they built being the first big syn oil. Don't just accept the advice of some dude on a forum either without your own research. Things have changed in motor oil the last few years. Read up if it matters to you.

 

Great info here, as I just had a big engine built and was not about to throw that stupid cooler back on. Thanks for all the advice and comments. I ended up going the route of the L&L kit. It is a 100% complete kit with the adapter and all that, and by the time I got high pressure hoses made, etc. this was about the same cost. THe hoses on this kit are 1,750 PSI. A big selling point is the retaining bolt has 4 large holes for increased flow in any position. I wiill have it on in a couple weeks when I get my engine back and will post some pics of it installed.

Part number 040183, I got it at National Tire & Wheel for a really good price.

 

I found this

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr....asp?RecID=125

2.87 long. I know it is short but honestly a lot of oil gets bypassed around the filter anyway when oil is cold or when RPM is high. GM uses very small filters on their engines now. If a LS motor in a Vette or SS Camaro is OK with a small filter then my low revving 460 should be. I think it may fit right on the block with the thread adapter. Could be a good option at least until someone figures out their plumbing. I can't seem to find a Fram part number for it

This Fram is 3.09 long PH7328 the gasket is the right diameter
http://www.autozone.com/routine-main...artNumber=true


The Dodge filter that was tried is over 4" long.

I am going to get one and try it. Can anyone remember actually measuring the distance between the block and the crossmember? I will see if I can look tomorrow and get a rough measurement (My factory cooler is still in place).

 

Look at the filter for the Chrysler 2.2L, Fram PH3614 it is 3.34" high X 2.98" OD. I know it fits the thread because I ran a PH8 (Ford) on my 2.2L TurboII engine.

I personally prefer the larger filters, not for flow but dirt capacity. I found that the mini filter on my Olds diesel could be replaced with an older Oldsmobile full size filter.

I was fortunate in scoring a complete system from a junkyard. It came off an early (88-early 90) EFI 460 in a dump truck. It has the factory adapter which goes in place of the pre-EFI adapter. It looks almost exactly the same except the bosses are drilled and tapped for the end plugs and fittings. I even got the clamp that holds the lines to the bottom of the radiator support.