I was driving down the road and thud. That was the sound of my front passenger side coil spring busting out the rusted mount. I have one strut which mounts into the bracket along with the top of the coil. It seems I can only get it from a ford dealer, and they say that my 1994 part is not made anymore for manual locking hubs. However, for self locking hubs the part is still made. Is there any difference in the bracket part? Is it just an extra clip or hole on the self locking one?

 

maybe im misunderstaning you..but that made little if no sense. did it bust through the top mount? out of the bottom cup? these trucks have shocks not struts, unless you have some suspension mod. the part that confusing me is it sounds like you are talking about the top spring mount, but then you are talking about your hubs, which muddies everything up since your spring mount should have nothing to do with your hubs. got any pics? give us a lil more man!also the year make model, and 2wd/4wd would help

 

There is one shock absorber.

The hubs were included because the parts dept told me they can get me a bracket for a self locking hub but not a manual locking one. I just don't see what effect that would have on what type of bracket I would need. The bracket is not even connected to the axle.

The coil broke a hole near the top mount. The hole is in the bracket structure. I don't know the name of the bracket.

My question to the group is does anyone know whether or not the fact that I have manual locking hubs will prevent me from being able to use a bracket termed for self locking hubs?

1994 F 150 4wd l6

 

I can't possibly imagine what voodoo magic Ford is using to determine that auto hubs require a different coil bucket than manual hubs. That ranks up there as one of the more absurd things I've read lately.

That being said, I would just get one from a junkyard rather than pay Ford's prices.

 

i dont see any reason at all that manual v. auto locking hubs would have anything to do with it. cheapest route for replacement would be to go grab one from a junk yard, and put it in place of the old one, just using bolts instead of those beast azz rivets. i know that JBG(jeffsbroncograveyard.com) has them, and you should be able to get them from LMC as well. but like i said i would just go to a junkyard, a grab one off a truck right there. and just so we are clear, you are talking about the upper spring mount that holds the top of the spring, and shock(s) and is riveted to the frame? if you do go the junkyard route, be sure to remember to get the upper spring retainer clip so your spring doesnt pop out on ya, and give it a good cleanup with a wirewheel, and a fresh coat of paint so this doesnt happen again.(at least on that side)

 

Thanks for the great input guys. I called the local junkyard but they don't have it.

Yes I am talking about the upper spring mount that holds the top of the spring, and shock and is riveted to the frame.

As for the rivets, how in the heck do I get those out?

I am definitely just going to bolt the new one on like fishforlife said.

 

You have to drill or grind them out. Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market to find a junkyard near you.

 

Hey i just ordered a free catalog from bronco graveyard.com and couldnt help but see the part you need. page 109 Coil Spring Tower 80-96 same part brand new you just have to pick one shock. i belive front pass side would be rh side with single shock 90 bucks brand new from them. I am thinking of replacing mine on my 86 they do look rusty, but i dont look forward to grinding out the factory rivits.
(I have a parts frame with dual shocks that are good but you only need single so)

 

to get those rivets out grind off the top of the heads as best you can and then take a punch ( sized in relation to the rivet size ) and a BFH and after the head is ground out punch the rest of the shank through. while you have the buckets off take a chance to wirewheel the frame to clean it up, and then hit it with a coat of paint. not only will it look better but it will help out on slowing down/ stopping the corrosion. A word of advise, dont skimp on bolts. it may cost you a couple extra bucks, but a grade 8 bolt, lockwasher, and nut is the only thing that i would consider for this. just my 2cent's...