Hello all. I am on dial up here and my comp running real slow. i used the search feature and found nothing about the trucks problem.

it has a chugging and lack of power going on now. it just came on out of the blues. I cant even drive it now cause its so bad. I replaced the coil pack air filter fuel filter and disconnected the o2 sensor along with the muffler to let it free flow. Muffler been replaced a year ago and easy to take off. but i still have the same problem. this is the 302 engine.
any help where to look next would be appreciated. i can not drive it to a garage because it would never make it there to have the scanner hooked up. so any one had sim problems that could tell me what went down with an other wise perfect running truck just out of the blues with no sign of problem comming on. it drove just fine then it just lost power as i was driving. again hello all and thank you in advance.

 

Maybe you got some bad gas?
jim

 

it ran good on gas it had in it. I havent put any gas in for atleast 4 days and been running fine up till today.

 

codes?

reset the computer.

ony thing done in the engine compartment?

 

don't have a scanner and the closest place to have it checked is like 20 minutes away. the truck will never make it there. i disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and reconnected it back up. there has been no work at all to the truck prior to last year other than what i replaced today to see if those things was the proble.

 

Check fuel pressure.

 

Assuming your truck uses an EEC-IV PCM, no code reader is required: Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test

If you have OBD-II (aka EEC-V) you need a code reader. I bought one at Walmart for less than $50. It will pay for itself in a very short time.

 

Does it work decent at idle? When you hit the gas harder does it get worse? If so, check the fuel pressure, sounds like your pump may be going bad.

The EEC test is a great tool and it has fixed a good deal of problems with my truck. There are times where it failed me and it has also given me false codes so make sure you validate any before you throw parts at the truck.

 

yes, idle is fine. it doesn't stall when idle. just runs real crappy when gas is applied. chugg chugg and an occasional back fire.

 

I don't think I had any backfire when my pump went, but with the computer getting so confused from the lack of fuel, anythings possible. Best way I know to check the fuel pressure is to press the nipple on the fuel rail and see how fast it comes out, for me it just trickled. It should have some oomph behind it.

Don't let too much out though...

 

today i pressed the valve on the fuel rail and had lots of pressure squirting out. i also removed the air filter and it ran good for about 20 miles then it acted up again. i squirted more gas out of the fuel rail when it started to act up and it took care of the problem for about another 5 miles.
the problem is with the fuel mixture from what i gathered from those 2 things i done today. i got a spare truck for parts that has some donar parts. suggestion on what parts to change over from that to this?

 

Pushing on the valve at the fuel rail is not doing a whole lot for you. In the absence of pressure you get a dribble. It is impossible to tell if you are getting the correct pressure without a gauge.

But before going down that path check to see if you have any codes stored in the computer (PCM). In many cases you can have an error without having the CEL on. You have already thrown parts at it without resolution. If it were me I would stop throwing money and parts at it. Your truck is a 1995 correct? You may have an OBD-II system instead of the older OBD-I aka EEC-IV. If you have an EEC-IV you can pull the codes using a paper clip: Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test If have the OBD-II system you will need a code reader. I bought mine at Walmart for under $50 a few years ago. It paid for itself the first time I hooked it up. If you are having a fuel issue get a fuel pressure gauge to verify the pressure. You may be able to rent one at the local parts store for free.

 

Yeah, seeing as you have a decent amount of pressure, it would seem logical that the mixture is off. Do the self test, and it will likely yeild some answers.

 

Hi all. I am new to this site, couldn't find post new thread button so i just posted here, sorry if it's wrong.

My problem is with my 1995 Ford explorer 4.0. For a while now i have had the chirp, and surging idle problem, and had diagnostic run and found out that my issue was the cmp, but was told it would be best to replace the sensor along with the synchronizer because 90 percent of the time that's bad too, or so the guy told me and quoted me 700 dollars to fix. That was too rich for my blood at the moment, plus it was driving fine. Ok, i have driven it a year with this squeeking, but as long as it was running i was gonna drive it. (bad on my part i know, but things are very tight) ANYWHO. It finally died while i was pulling in a driveway, and won't crank back up. I feel like it is because of the above stated issues. Because of the way it made it drive which was bad at times. My question is am i right? Can not fixing the cmp/synchro make it die and not crank back up? Plz help thanks in advance.

 

Check plug wires. I had a similiar problem; thought I checked everything. A plug wire was resting on the exhaust manifold. It burned through the wire. It wasn't obvious unless you looked carefully as the burned through spot was small.