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Old 11-08-2009, 03:29 AM
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repacement 360 oil pan for '70 F100

ok. you guys have hit all around my problem in the threads ive read, but havent nailed it.

My pan is rusted out and so I need to replace it. Ebay has some for $33 bucks but claims its not for trucks or vans. Why not?

Ebay ad mentions all the FE's, except 360. Im confused. Is the 360 the same as the others? or not?

Summit has one for $119 but I cant tell the diff between it and the ebay pans. Obviously im interested in the $33 one...but need to verify it will work.

How many different front sump pans are there and..how can I tell wich one I have?

Sorry this is so long, but I am totaly lost onthis one. I just dont want to make a bad purchase.

AAny help is appreciated!
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:05 AM
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First off, I don't understand why you have a rusted out oil pan in Texas, but if you do, you do.

As many FEs that were installed from 65-76 in trucks finding a good used oil pan should be a piece o cake.

I believe but can't verify that the 4wd used a different pan than the 2wd.

352, 360, & 390 engines use the same block.



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Old 11-09-2009, 03:50 AM
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4wd has a rear sump pan John. Those front sump pans have close encounters with the differential housing on 4X4s.

'nilla60, how about a link to those epay pans? Also, if you search is year-specific,(like 1960) the search terms may give only displacements that were available in that year. I think it was in 1967 that 360s were available in trucks. If your truck came with an FE, buy a pan for that engine.
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:04 PM
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And don't forget, make sure the oil pump pickup works with whatever pan you're getting

Hypoid is right, 4x4 trucks had the rear-sump pan. Not only for the close-encounter with the 4x4 differential, but also going steep UPHILL in a 4x4, it helps if you don't starve the engine for oil

So, 'nill60, is your pan front-sump, or rear sump, and what is it in, 4x2, or 4x4?
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:32 PM
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This pan Im talking about is for my 1970 4x2 (not my 1960). Sorry for any confusion.

To recap: my understanding of the FE engine family is that the 352, 360, 390, 427 are the same externally and COULD, hypothetically, all use the same oilpan. The question is....did they? The pans Im finding on the net (ebay, etc.) do not list the 360, but DO list the other FE engines as applicable to their pan. Why not the 360? Like JoW said, the 360 and 390 are identical...and they do list the 390. Ford did not put 360s in cars....do you think this is why?

The only differences that are noticeable in pictures between the OEM pan and the ebay pan is a reversal of the drain plug, which sucks no matter what side its on, and makes absolutely no difference to me. Where I need help is figuring out if "360" was left off the list because of a nit-pick reason like the drain-plug location or is there another issue regarding clearances or fitment that prohibits a truck application....?

The engine Im working on is a 360 with a FRONT sump pan. If a REAR sump is better/easier, then sobeit. If I can find one, I'll consider it depending on the $$. However, all Im needing is a pan that will work.

check this link out
FORD FE OIL PAN 352-390-406-427-428 V8 BLUE BIG BLOCK:eBay Motors (item 220504871974 end time Nov-10-09 00:01:45 PST)
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:28 AM
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nilla60, Basically any 2wd pickup from 65 to 76 with 352, 360, or 390 engine will use the same oil pan. I'm cheap and would not spend $50.00 for one, as many that would be available for $5.00 or for free. Let's swap the 428 for the 427 in your line up, while the 427 is a FE it aint a regular find.

Why the 360 is left out, who knows. You will find along the way listings for 390 and not 360 but unless it is in the rotating assembly itself, anything 390 or 352 can be used with the 360 with a few "GT" exceptions. The 360 is a truck only app. and not a not rod engine.



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Old 11-10-2009, 05:14 PM
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Nilla60, the guys listing fe parts without the 360 in the list a car guys. If thier not into trucks they might not even know there is a 360. Krewat said it about the location of the oil pickup. Yours is a front sump and the oil pickup is in the front sump. (prolly know all this)
The rear sumps are harder to find I hear and your front sump is a easy find at a junkyard. Kinda hard to get off though because you have to raise the engine high enough to unbolt the pickup tube (just lay it in the sump). Also if you put a lift under the crank pulley it's kinda dangerous so cut yourself some 2x4 s unbolt the motor mounts lift the motor up. Mine took 2 boards on each side to clear the pan/crossmember. Then reverse.
Some like cork gaskets I used felcoid. Don't use rtv. Perhaps a dab at the time cover corners. Torque to spec/center out.
Unless I have missed something any pan off of a FE truck 2wd should work.
As far as I can tell mine looks just like this one. The guys comment about truck pans being rear sump comes from a car guy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FE-FO...item45ef0b981c
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:23 PM
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There is one big difference between a car pan and a truck pan for any FE as they will all interchange. However, the truck pan (4x2) has the drain plug at the back driver's side while the car pan has the drain plug front passenger side.
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:18 PM
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Thanks Kennewick and TBM3FAN, this is what I was hoping for (drain being the only diff between the pans). I ordered the pan off of ebay for $33 and it showed the drain on the passenger side...like u said. I just hope its worth a crap...

If you deal with part num at all then you know that any diffs in these pans will cause one to have a different part number than the other. With all the "will fit this" "wont fit that" being derived from part nums only (not actual proof-of-fitment), Im sure this happens with all sorts of parts. It appeared to be so with this one, but I just wasnt sure. The pan I ordered should be identical to the one that came stock except for the drain being on the other side. On that note: Im looking for an aftermarket drain to weld in. Someone wasnt thinking on that whole drain placement....

Thanks to you both.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'nilla60 View Post
Thanks Kennewick and TBM3FAN, this is what I was hoping for (drain being the only diff between the pans). I ordered the pan off of ebay for $33 and it showed the drain on the passenger side...like u said. I just hope its worth a crap...

If you deal with part num at all then you know that any diffs in these pans will cause one to have a different part number than the other. With all the "will fit this" "wont fit that" being derived from part nums only (not actual proof-of-fitment), Im sure this happens with all sorts of parts. It appeared to be so with this one, but I just wasnt sure. The pan I ordered should be identical to the one that came stock except for the drain being on the other side. On that note: Im looking for an aftermarket drain to weld in. Someone wasnt thinking on that whole drain placement....

Thanks to you both.
That was my first FE head scratcher. Drain hole is a mess waiting for ya. There are some aftermarket drain extensions. Let me know if your wanting to see one and I'll get you a link. That pan sounds like a decent one and it's paintable. Perhaps a little spendy but the junkyards are spendy anymore too.
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'nilla60 View Post
Thanks Kennewick and TBM3FAN, this is what I was hoping for (drain being the only diff between the pans). I ordered the pan off of ebay for $33 and it showed the drain on the passenger side...like u said. I just hope its worth a crap...
Should be worthwhile as I bought one of eBay for $38 about two years ago for my 410. Paintable steel and I could find no difference between it and the old pan with the damaged drain hole threads. Same gauge steel and same baffles inside.
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:18 PM
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I'm going out on a limb here and using the "N" word. Ford NEVER put an FE 360 in cars. That is why you don't see the displacement listed for cars.

The detail about the drain plug did get me looking through my junk. The Pan on the engine pulled from a '67 Fairlane had the drain on the passenger side. The 2x truck pan and '65 T-Bird pan both had the drain on the driver's rear corner. I should have another 2x truck pan, but I have not found it.
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:05 PM
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you bet. send any link you have on the extensions. Should get the pan Friday so we'll see.
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:23 PM
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you bet. send any link you have on the extensions. Should get the pan Friday so we'll see.
Here you go. I kinda like the Fumoto one. I want to give them a call and be sure of the fit but it looks quite nice. The one I linked has a nipple fitting so you can just hook a hose to it. Uptown man!

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fc/full.aspx?Page=46
http://www.qwikvalve.com/F101N-1-2-20-UNF-w-nipple.html
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:46 AM
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360/390 aftermarket Oil Pan Results

Hey, just wanted to update my oilpan experience...but first, thanks to you guys that responded.

I did end up buying a $33 pan off of Ebay versus hunting in the wrecking yards. Its was simply a time thing. As discussed previously, there was concern that this 390 car pan had a different profile than the Ford 360 oilpan and would foul with the crossmember. I can clear that up: it works as a perfect replacement for the 360. The new car pan is actually FLAT on the bottom of the sump where the Ford pan has a radius on the bottom of the sump that goes from front-to-back. In other words, its even a better fit because it has about about a 3/8" shorter profile than the original. Still, its worth noting that the only functional difference in the two pans was the pan drain location: its in the same crappy location (maybe even a litte crappier), but on the passenger side. I am resolves to using an oil evac (via dipstick tube) to totally remove this issue.

I cussed the pumpshaft, tho. What a freakin nightmare. My experience was a bit different than what I had read in the forum(s). I was under the impression that the pan would come completely out if the engine was raised...negatory to that. I probably just misunderstood this "small" point. : ) The only way i could successfully assemble everything was by tying the pumpshaft off thru the dist'r hole to something in the engine bay with a long piece of dental floss to hold that mother up there while assembling the pump to the block....using the less-than-adequate space available between the dropped pan and the block......I finally got it.

Thanks again, gents.
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