I was thinking the top one was best for me. Just wondering if anyone had pics of their senders in the port. Looking at mine I am thinking I need the 90degree elbow fitting from RiffRaff
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Platinum Pete was installing one today, but didn't have the adaptor fitting like the one I linked to. He will be getting the adaptor on Monday. Maybe he can send you a pic when he's finished with his install. I'm sure someone else has a pic somewhere, but I can't think of them.
__________________ Brandon PAA MEMBER # 7.3, 99.5 CC,4X4,SB, leveled,live tuned by Jody,1.15 van turbo w ATS housing,6.0 IC,AFE big boost filter, Petes Armour, FASS/DFA fuel system,fuel bowl delete,black MBRP stacks, 02 headlights,F650 dash, and a bunch other stuff that wont fit in my sig. 293K and counting.
__________________ Brandon PAA MEMBER # 7.3, 99.5 CC,4X4,SB, leveled,live tuned by Jody,1.15 van turbo w ATS housing,6.0 IC,AFE big boost filter, Petes Armour, FASS/DFA fuel system,fuel bowl delete,black MBRP stacks, 02 headlights,F650 dash, and a bunch other stuff that wont fit in my sig. 293K and counting.
That shows the bottom port on the passenger side. When I installed mine in the fuel bowl, I used the top port on the driver side. Just take the plug out with an allen wrench and then install the adapter.
The reason the passenger side port is used is that it is post-filter and is the pressure that is going to the heads. The
other port is pre-filter and reads return pressure. If the filter is restricted couldn't the return pressure still read good
but the pressure to the heads could be lower? I have often wondered about this.
I personally have the sender reading the fuel pressure at a tee in a CCK sytem where the fuel return lines from each head join.
The reason the passenger side port is used is that it is post-filter and is the pressure that is going to the heads. The
other port is pre-filter and reads return pressure. If the filter is restricted couldn't the return pressure still read good
but the pressure to the heads could be lower? I have often wondered about this.
Tht being said....I think I will put and in cab Fuel pressure gauge so I can see the numbers at idle and while driving. (here comes gauge # 12) sender in the lower passenger side port. and do an under the hood gauge in the upper drivers side port. Then I will be able to see the FP at idle when under the hood doing something. And I can also compare idling pressures between the two gauges and see how much my is causing in FP changes. plus have a baseline and know when I need to change the filter by FP drop over time.
Any thoughts?
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Tht being said....I think I will put and in cab Fuel pressure gauge so I can see the numbers at idle and while driving. (here comes gauge # 12) sender in the lower passenger side port. and do an under the hood gauge in the upper drivers side port. Then I will be able to see the FP at idle when under the hood doing something. And I can also compare idling pressures between the two gauges and see how much my is causing in FP changes. plus have a baseline and know when I need to change the filter by FP drop over time.
Any thoughts?
Sounds like a plan.
It would be interesting to see if over time and the fuel filter is getting a bit dirty if you can see a difference between pre and post filter pressure.
How about this: put electronic senders on both ports, run the wiring to a SPST switch with one side labeled "pre" and the other "post". Then from the switch, go to your elecronic gauge inside the cab. You could then also have taps or "quick disconnects" under hood so that you could tap in a 2nd electronic gauge while working under hood. This way, you could have both readings, in both locations.
__________________ Brendan
1999 F250 CC SB 4x4 7.3 PSD named "Nyx"
BTS VB;6637;A-pillar (pyro, boost, trans temp);XM radio;Alpine CDA-9831 w/RCA inputs;Leveling kit;Adrenaline HPOP;UnderCover tonneau cover;05 headlights
How about this: put electronic senders on both ports, run the wiring to a SPST switch with one side labeled "pre" and the other "post". Then from the switch, go to your elecronic gauge inside the cab. You could then also have taps or "quick disconnects" under hood so that you could tap in a 2nd electronic gauge while working under hood. This way, you could have both readings, in both locations.
Thats a great idea....1 problem. Money! Electronic gauges are 4x the cost. DI has a mechanical under the hood gauge with all the connections and mounting bracket for 59.99 shipped to my door. 1 electronic gauge is 239.00 for an autometer Ultra-lite (what I have to get to match my interior gauges now). Think I will just do the interior and the mechancal.
__________________
You from AZ? Checkout
www.azpsg.com/index.php?referrerid=4
How about this: put electronic senders on both ports, run the wiring to a SPST switch with one side labeled "pre" and the other "post". Then from the switch, go to your elecronic gauge inside the cab. You could then also have taps or "quick disconnects" under hood so that you could tap in a 2nd electronic gauge while working under hood. This way, you could have both readings, in both locations.
This is what I did on my 650 dash, except I used a DPDT (on, off, on) and I wired a water temp guage to read both water temp, and oil temp, it just depends on which way I throw the switch as to whisch the guage is reading.
__________________ Brandon PAA MEMBER # 7.3, 99.5 CC,4X4,SB, leveled,live tuned by Jody,1.15 van turbo w ATS housing,6.0 IC,AFE big boost filter, Petes Armour, FASS/DFA fuel system,fuel bowl delete,black MBRP stacks, 02 headlights,F650 dash, and a bunch other stuff that wont fit in my sig. 293K and counting.
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