Greetings,
I was wondering if anyone has done this . I have the tap, freeze plug and the brass plug . I'm doing my homework as not to be taken off gaurd as with the ic swap .(thanks for everyones input) I have downloaded instuctions . I bought a kit for the back of the turbo w/ 4" down pipe from that little funny guy who wastes all the trees for 4 to 5 pages in diesel power . I started on fri. but had noticed an exhaust @ the up pipe . I went today and got 2 new gaskets and it looks like that will be nothing short of a nitemare . Any suggestions ?
Thanks
John
It's not too bad of a job. The studs holding the butterfly to the shaft were harder than I expected to get out, but everything else was very straight forward. You'll do fine.
About the up-pipes -- start soaking the bolts now with PB Blaster. The sooner & longer they soak, the better. And be careful with the bolts -- they are known to break.
Gutting the EBPV is easy, just remember to leave the EBP sensor unplugged when you put the turbo back on. The up-pipes are a bit of a pain, but can be done. Make sure to get it lined back up properly when you put it back together. Also use plenty of anti-seize on the new gaskets and the bolts in the Y collector in case you ever have to take it back apart.
I gutted mine May of 03. has been workin fine as a non-EBPV pedistal ever since. Follow the instructions. (if they are the ones from Heatstroked....that is actually my pedistal)
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Has anyone taken the EBPV controller out of the pedistal when they gutted the pediatal? I have a spare one without the control and wonder if I can plug a passage or two to make a "blank" pedistal.
The "passages" are like an 1/8th inch. Maybe. Probably more like 1/16th. They are very tiny, so it's not worth messing with, IMHO. Just plug the hole the arm comes out and call it good...
Has anyone taken the EBPV controller out of the pedistal when they gutted the pediatal? I have a spare one without the control and wonder if I can plug a passage or two to make a "blank" pedistal.
Gutted mine completely. tapped the hole where the actuator arm came out of the pedistal. Put a 1/8 NPT pipe plug in it. put the plate and sap ring back in the other side and put in the truck. No issues since doing it. pulled the pedistal last night actually to redo the orings. After 6.5 years I guess the pedistal orings anted to leak a little. But as for the gutting...Nope issue free
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The reason that I asked about the passages is that my spare pedistal is missing the controller. I will either have to find another controller to plug that big hole, or plug off whatever passage feeds to it.
When you say "missing the controller", you mean you pulled the actual solenoid out of the front of the pedestal? I never messed with mine, so I have no idea what it looks like in there.
There is a big recess that the controller fits into that has oil passages in it. The controller moves a piston in and out to provide a connection between the passages. I was wondering which passage the oil pressure enters the pedistal, and which one is for the return oil. I looked in behind the snap ring plate and see passages there, too. I was wondering if I can plug one of those to stop the oil flow.
Does the oil pressure go through the actuator chamber first before it gets to the controller, or the other way around? If I plug the oil to the EBPV system, does that affect the lubricating oil to the turbo, or are they completely different systems?
I can't answer any of that. The only passages I saw were the small ones I mentioned in the chamber where the piston is (behind the big plug held in with the snap ring).
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