Safe Place to Put Jack Stands

[brucewon]

I need to replace my tires and flush my brake lines this weekend. What is the best place to put the jack stands? Is one place on the axel better than another? What is the best spot to jack up the rear? I thought this might get answered before the time it takes me to search the forums. Thanks.

[51PanelMan]

I would jack up the rear right under the pumpkin and put the stands on each side of the rear axle spaced closer to the wheels. Then jack up the front somewhere in the center to lift up the entire front or jack up each side. I would place the jack stands on each side on the frame right after the front suspension and below the cab.

[brucewon]

Ok, that's what I was thinking.

I just bought this truck and don't want to break one thing while fixing another, which I tend to do a lot!

Thanks.

[Old F1]

Originally Posted by brucewon

I don't want to break one thing while fixing another.

Bruce, so what makes you want to be different from the rest of us, huh?

(For safety stick in your location so we know where you’re under the truck at)

[ALBUQ F-1]

Make sure if you have the front suspension hanging (jackstands under frame) that the front brake hoses aren't what's limiting the travel! Some replacement hoses are a couple inches too short. I prefer to jack and support the front under the front beam axle.

[brucewon]

Thanks for info! I'm located in Westminster, CA if the jack stands fail!

Bruce.

[rb48f6]

Yep, under the axles and place the stands as close as you can to be under the springs. Hopefully all goes well for you. As F1 says tho' why should you be any different?

[AXracer]

If you put it on 4 stands, be sure to shake it vigorously to be sure it is sitting solid before you crawl under it. Some inexpensive jackstands have a very limited load capacity, especially the ones where the center extension is a tube you stick a pin thru rather than a toothed I beam.

[Tomget]

Bruce

And if you have the room, some people, me included like to slide a spare wheel/tire laying down flat etc under&near where we're working etc. I've never had a jack stand fail etc/and I've had plenty of opportunities, but a little insurance can make a person feel more relaxed.

Goodluck Tom

[Julies Cool F1]

I have to disagree with a number of the posts here - shoot me if you want.

Whatever you do DO NOT jack the truck up from under the front axel! The alignment of the front end, specifically the cambor and kingpin inclination are set at the factory be "bending" the axel. If you put the entire weight of the front of the truck on a 3" section of the axel, you WILL bend it and throw off your alignment.

Jack the back up on each side under the U-bolts and place a jack stand under the FRAME when it is high enough to relax pressure on the springs and get the wheel off the ground. Repeat on the other side.

For the front, jack under the frame just aft of the bumper and place the jackstands under the FRAME about 6 inches behind the jack. Then repeat on the other side.

It takes some extra work, but there is no play in the elevated truck because the springs are not still supporting the weight of the truck when elevated. Under those circumstances as AX indicated it CAN move. Be sure, brace the frame.

Don't believe me? I'll post you a picture of the bent axel I just replaced if you want proof!

[rb48f6]

You're right Julie about not lifting via the front axle and how front alignments were done with the blue (torch) wrench. I lift via the frame one side at a time after cribbing the jack to get the height needed to get lift. Then I'm supporting under the front axle at the spring mounts. With a frame bottom that's 24" from the ground sitting on the wheels, my stands won't reach that high. And the stability of a stand with a neck extended that far looks like a place waiting for an accident to happen. The rear is still sitting on the duals for stability.

[AXracer]

If jacking the entire front end I put my floor jack under the center of the front crossmember. My jack stands go under the frame or under the spring mounting pads on the axle, never under the axle itself. If I must crib the jack I am sure to use solid wood blocks like short 4x4 or 6x6 cutoffs. NEVER use a concrete ("cinder") block! I did that because I was using a hydraulic bottle jack and it was handy, even placed a piece of 2x6 on top of it to spread the weight. I left it like that while I went inside to eat, when I came back out the block had shattered! Fortunately the wheels were still on it, so that side was sitting on the tire.
I don't usually like the no name or house brand imported tools sold by Harbor Freight and Northern tool, but I can highly recommend this aluminum floor jack:
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Note, it is put on sale regularly so watch for a sale on it. We have been using ours for about 6 years now for changing tires on the race car. We now have two of them one stays in the trailer and one in the garage. It is light enough and compact enough that my wife has no trouble carrying it around and using it. In fact (wo)manning the jack is her job when we change tires.

[Tomget]

I never realized that jacking via the front axle could be a problem with distorting alignment etc. . Especially those of us with aftermarket big blocks and automatics etc. We put a lot more weight than OEM motors etc on that axle. I'll change my ways accordingly. Thanks.

Goodluck Tom

[brucewon]

Ok, well it's already on the stands since I just read the last part of this post. I jacked the rear under the pumpkin then placed a stand on either side under the leafs.

The front I jacked up under the center of the axel (which I now know is wrong) then placed a jack stand under each spring then lowered. So the truck is sitting on the axle in front.

I have the wheels off and the drums off to bleed the brakes so it will have to stay for now.

Hopefully I didn't bend it.

[brucewon]

So this is how I have the front right now.


But according to the post I should have them here?


This is how I have the back.