New here and need help on a 3.0 V6 misfire on cylinder 4, 5, 6.
Hello all,
I'm new here and hoping to get some good info on a issue I'm having on my truck.
It is a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 with 135,XXX miles.
I am trying to get a smog test done, the truck has been rough and shaky at idle with the check engine light on for about a month. When I hooked it up to diagnose this issue it read, misfire at start and misfire on cylinder 4, 5, 6.
I replaced the wires, plugs, and coil and am still getting the same thing. IS there anything anyone can recommend to fix this issue. I'm a college student and would like to do this myself to save money and learn more about working on vehicles.
Thanks to everyone who responds and please let me know if any more info is needed.
Did this problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event????
The computer detects a cyl misfire by noticing a change in expected crankshaft rotation & a misfire can be caused by a number of problems, like spark, fuel delivery, compression, or some combination there-of.
SO, seeing as how you have a trouble code for All cyls in One bank & the vehicle has an ignition system in which the plugs in one bank share a spark coil with a companion plug in the opposite bank, but you don't have any misfire codes for the other bank of cyls, the problem isn't likely to be coilpack related & it seems you've discovered that after you replaced the coilpack!!!!
BTW the coilpack can be bench tested, but you aparently didn't do that.
Fuel injectors???? well imo all injectors just in one bank aren't likely to go bad together either.
A sticking valve, again it isn't likely that All the cyls just in one bank would suddenly develope a valve problem.
SO, what could happen that would affect all cyls in one bank, to cause a misfire????
Is your coolant level dropping, but you can't find a leak????
Is the oil sump level rising, or does the oil on the dipstick look like a milkshake, or does the dipstick have any froth on it????
If so, it seems to me a head gasket, or cyl head crack problem may fit this scenario & the 3.0L is known for cyl head cracks!!!!
Thus, maybe add a compression check on cyls 4-5-6, which are on the drivers side, to your trouble shoot list.
More thoughts to ponder, let us know what you find.
__________________
99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
I have not tested for bad components, this time around I will surely do so. Again, I'm just learning and am very eager to do so, so all this advice is great.
aquanaut20- All wires are on the correct plugs, I did check that.
How would I check for a vacuum leak?
Also, what are the best ways to check for spark, fuel, and compression?
pawpaw- This issue has come on slowly over time.
Coolant level is not dropping.
Dipstick oil looks normal.
This morning I did find a small oil leak, looks like its coming from the oil pan area.
In all your opinions should I start first with the testing of spark, fuel, and compression? If so please inform me the best ways to do so. I have all day today and tomorrow to work on the truck.
Again, I greatly appreciate the help and info everyone is providing!
Right now without more clues, I'd consider beginning the troubleshoot with a compression check, on all cyls as Rockledge suggested, or at least on cyls 4-5-6.
If you don't have a compression gauge, timing light, or fuel pressure test gauge & don't want to buy one, most autoparts stores have them in their "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refundable deposit.
Most libraries have repair manuals & most auto parts stores carry them & they aren't very expensive, so if your of a mind to begin turning wrenches on your ride, a repair manual would be a good investment.
Just look through it to see if the format & detail suits you.
Or if you want more detail, maybe a repair CD, or even a more expensive factory repair manual, all depending on how deep into & how much detail you want, or need on repair info.
I've found for me, that a Haynes repair manual & this site, is about all I need, to do most of the things I'd likely try to repair, replace, or service.
More thoughts to ponder.
__________________
99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
Thanks again for the info everyone. I'm going to rent the tester today.
I was just under the truck and it seems that the oil leak is coming from near the oil filter or at least thats where it is massing up and dripping from.
I have a 99 Mazda 4x4 3.0 w/125k on it and have the exact same problem. I just scrounged together the money to replace the plugs. I sprung the oil leak, as well but it appears my power steering reservoir is overflowing...? All the plugs on the drivers side looked fouled and smelled like fuel....carbon tracts etc. But the passenger side looks fine. I had the Bosch Platinum 4 plugs which I replaced with Motorcraft Platinum (SP432) and gapped them to .044. I am sure I have the same problem as OCSNAKEREMOVAL. I thought maybe my K&N was so dirty that maybe it was running rich which fouled the plugs. I WAS WRONG! The problem is I was laid off and am unemployed so Im broke. I dont even have the means to do a compression test. I bought the truck used less than two months ago. I am so frustrated with this because now I feel like I have to scrap the truck. $3500 down the drain. I hope you can figure this out. TPS, or MAF sensor??? Computer? Taking it to the dealership is as much as replacing all of these electrical components. I love the 4x4 on the Rangers which is why I have it. What next?
Sounds to me like you used single platinum plugs. SP432 is a single platinum. You need to use Motorcraft or Autolite Double platinum plugs. My brothers Aerostar (4.0L V6) has a misfire code on one plug on the driver side, ended up being wrong plugs. The passenger side looked almost new, the drivers side were completely shot. You must use the right plugs.
Ok, so I talked to the guy at Ch***er Auto, and he told me some new information. He originally sold me the plugs and gave me antiseize with the Motorcraft plugs. He is NOT the one I talked to on the phone that set these plugs aside for me, so when I got there he allegedly sold me the plugs without knowing which application I was using them for. He gave me some new options/instructions. First he said you CANNOT use antiseize on this motor but rather use dielectric grease. Then he said you must use a OBD II Scan tool (which I luckily have access to) to clear the check engine light before you try to start it. However, these plugs are within specs to use for this application, but he recommended using the NGK Iridium plugs which work better and last longer. Tomorrow morning I will clear my "check engine" light and see if it starts. (It doesn't run for more than a few seconds and sounds like its running on three or four cylinders). I will also buy new wires. Mine look new, but the guy said that might not matter however they really don't seem to be the problem in this case. If it does start or run slightly better, I am going to exchange the Motorcraft plugs for the NGKs. Funny how one of my friends who is a certified mechanic failed to mention clearing the check engine light!
I will re-post my results tomorrow. In the meantime please give some feedback! Thanks
Ok, I used the OBD II Scan tool. I cleared the computer. Still the same thing. Didnt want to run. So I pulled the fuel filter and cranked her over. No fuel coming through the line. Also noticed that I couldnt hear the fuel pump "priming" itself. I checked the fuse and relay. Relays usually dont go bad, and the fuse was in tact. So I got incredibly greasy as I started to pull the tank. It wasnt too bad, I thought I was going to have to pull the driveshaft off but all I did was jack the truck up and it slid out after disconnecting the wires and fuel lines. I looked in the tank and it barely had fuel in it. I beleive the drivers side plugs were fouled because I tried to crank it so much. This frustrates me, because when it quit running the fuel light (check gauge) wasnt even on. After I pulled out the pump and sender, I noticed that the sender was coming apart (The plastic was separated by the wire and floater). Im sure the pump is bad because I did run it almost completely dry right after I got it. This could have burned the pump, and who knows how much the previous owner ran it low on fuel. The tank was really dirty, and had bits floating around thee bottom. Someone may have put some rusty fuel in there. The screen looked kinda clogged too. Anyways, I am replacing the sender and pump. After it starts (hopefully) Then I will ditch those motorcraft single platinums for the NGK iridiums. We will see. I will repost.
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I hope you can figure this out. TPS, or MAF sensor??? Computer? Taking it to the dealership is as much as replacing all of these electrical components. I love the 4x4 on the Rangers which is why I have it. What next?
