I'm Mike and the New Guy! I've been lurking, reading and learning, Just haven't seen what I'm looking for.
I drive a 2006 F-250 with the 6.0. I've been watching the Vids on Powerstrokehelp.com and Have learned alot off that too. I bought it with 33K on it from a reputable dealer in Raleigh, NC. But I did notice he talks about which synthetic oils (which are my fav for my Ford Fusion and Harley Street Glide), but he talks about ones with the CJ4 rating. Is that necessary for the 2006 year? I thought they were for 2007 and up?? Anyone?
Also, I'm taking his advice on changing fluids and such. I have my own little shop to do it in so that'll be easy. If I can't work on it cause I can't lift it, I'll take it on Post and use the Auto Hobby shop on Ft Bragg. So, I 've got a lot of the normal stuff and a few mods in my thoughts. Right now I'm just getting caught up with proper maintenance.
Mostly right now I'm just curious about the oil issue. Trust me, I'll be asking for more advice when I don't read it in the forums! I do most of my own work on my Street Glide, so the trusk is a challenge for me!
I'm Mike and the New Guy! I've been lurking, reading and learning, Just haven't seen what I'm looking for.
I drive a 2006 F-250 with the 6.0. I've been watching the Vids on Powerstrokehelp.com and Have learned alot off that too. I bought it with 33K on it from a reputable dealer in Raleigh, NC. But I did notice he talks about which synthetic oils (which are my fav for my Ford Fusion and Harley Street Glide), but he talks about ones with the CJ4 rating. Is that necessary for the 2006 year? I thought they were for 2007 and up?? Anyone?
Also, I'm taking his advice on changing fluids and such. I have my own little shop to do it in so that'll be easy. If I can't work on it cause I can't lift it, I'll take it on Post and use the Auto Hobby shop on Ft Bragg. So, I 've got a lot of the normal stuff and a few mods in my thoughts. Right now I'm just getting caught up with proper maintenance.
Mostly right now I'm just curious about the oil issue. Trust me, I'll be asking for more advice when I don't read it in the forums! I do most of my own work on my Street Glide, so the trusk is a challenge for me!
Thanx in advance!
Most of the diesel oils are now cj4 rated wether syn. or dino so don't worry about it. Just make sure you use OEM filters. Absolutely do not use A/M filters except for the oil. Then only use IH or Fram CH9549. They are repackaged Racors.
Side note; I was a medic, 3rd/504th, 82nd abn. 68/69. 173rd abn 69/70 RVN.
Good luck to you and thanks for your service. Mike
__________________
"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, Lariet, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
"71 Triumph Trident
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k, 31'
173rd Abn.
Let me know if you need help wrenching I can be to the shop in 30mins. I am not a professional mechanic, disclaimer, but I did learn enough from these forums to install all of goodies in my signature and then some (haven't updated it in a while)...minus the suspension stuff. I also change my own oil, filters, etc.
heres the skinny on the cj oils and why you should use cj4 or higher.
when the fuel changed to ultra low the ash content changed. so the change in ash load is the reason for the cj4 engine oil.
also take note the use of bio fuel will degrade engine oil at a faster level and decress the oils useable life by 30-50% so that means oil changes at 3k insted of 5k
Thanks for the answers! Being so new to diesel, I have too read and ask questions. My Harley is much easier compared to this! LOL
69cj...Thanks for helping forge the Airborne for what it is today...smooth, fast, lethal!
nghtrgr...I'll always take the help! I know what I know and don't know and will always ask for help when needed. Being born blonde and polish you learn real quick what ya can and can't do! LOL
Cheezit...thanks for your answer. Cause I am thinking about biofuel in the future. Even making it myself if I get good enough resources for my supply.
Any and all suggestions will be definitely considered!
OK...Got a msg back from Royal Purple. I use them exclusively in my Harley. Now...after PowerStrokeHelp.com said only use cj4...this is what RP say in an Email to me.
Mike,
A 2006 Ford F250 with the 6.0L V8 Powerstroke specs a CI-4 rated 15W40 or 5W40.
API CJ-4 did not come into being until 2007 (designed in 2006 effective in 2007) so it’s impossible for Ford to have specified a CJ-4 as it did not become effective until 2007.
See the Attached API brochure.
The RP 15W40 CI-4+ / SL oil contains 1300 ppm of antiwear additives and is better for your engine than the API CJ-4 oils which only contain 1100 ppm of antiwear (to protect the emissions devices in the exhaust system on the new 6.4L Twin Turbo).
Using RP 15W40 will not void your warranty and will in fact increase your wear protection of your diesel engine.
Cheers, David
David Canitz
So...is PowerStrokeHelp.com wrong about needing a cj4 rated oil for my year truck? Or is he just being over-cautious and also due to what cj69 said that most oils, both dyno and syn now have the cj4 rating. I know Royal Purple doesn't have one yet, but if I can use the CI4 rating, I'd love to use it. RP is the best and lowers by bikes temps by a good amount.
I used the royal purple for about three oil changes. The truck run good on it but the last oil change i had to go to 3 differant stores to get enough to change the oil each store only had a few quarts, the next time i swaped back to the motorcraft 15-40. I like the royal purple but it was hard to find around here in the 15-40.
I just order it off Ebay man! Normally it's for a good price and Free Shipping! I do alot of fluid changes on area Harleys (Including my own)...so I buy it in 5 gallon containers! Look it up...it's usually worth it if you like RP.
OK...Got a msg back from Royal Purple. I use them exclusively in my Harley. Now...after PowerStrokeHelp.com said only use cj4...this is what RP say in an Email to me.
Mike,
A 2006 Ford F250 with the 6.0L V8 Powerstroke specs a CI-4 rated 15W40 or 5W40.
API CJ-4 did not come into being until 2007 (designed in 2006 effective in 2007) so it’s impossible for Ford to have specified a CJ-4 as it did not become effective until 2007.
See the Attached API brochure.
The RP 15W40 CI-4+ / SL oil contains 1300 ppm of antiwear additives and is better for your engine than the API CJ-4 oils which only contain 1100 ppm of antiwear (to protect the emissions devices in the exhaust system on the new 6.4L Twin Turbo).
Using RP 15W40 will not void your warranty and will in fact increase your wear protection of your diesel engine.
Cheers, David
David Canitz
So...is PowerStrokeHelp.com wrong about needing a cj4 rated oil for my year truck? Or is he just being over-cautious and also due to what cj69 said that most oils, both dyno and syn now have the cj4 rating. I know Royal Purple doesn't have one yet, but if I can use the CI4 rating, I'd love to use it. RP is the best and lowers by bikes temps by a good amount.
So...what's everyone think? anyone here use RP?
Mike
They are correct in the dates and min. requirements for the 6.0, however as Cheezit said the CJ-4 has a lower ash content in it which will help yor EGR and turbo live longer lives. It will also help to keep your intake cleaner. Two things to remember on this site.
1. Companies are in bussiness to make money. They may not lie to you, but they may not tell you the whole story either.
2. The people, majority anyway, that come here are either looking for help, to give help and all to hopefully learn something new. We have nothing to gain by giving advice and helping. Are we always right, probably not but a better bet than someone selling a product.
One last note; Some of the guys here are certified Ford diesel techs giving of their time free. What better advice could you get?
Mike
__________________
"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, Lariet, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
"71 Triumph Trident
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k, 31'
173rd Abn.
69cj...I totally agree with you. It's just that I'm a die hard RP fan! I've never used such a good oil and one that works with a super hot running Harley Twin Cam would definitely d well with my diesel too. But I'll wait till RP produces one with a cj4 rating.
Till then I'll roll on with the oil that is available with cj4 and always use the oem for filters.
69cj...I totally agree with you. It's just that I'm a die hard RP fan! I've never used such a good oil and one that works with a super hot running Harley Twin Cam would definitely d well with my diesel too. But I'll wait till RP produces one with a cj4 rating.
Till then I'll roll on with the oil that is available with cj4 and always use the oem for filters.
thanx again for all your help!
Mike
If you want something priced in between the 15W40 and the RP, use 5W40 synthetic. Your injectors will thank you when the N.C. winter kicks in
__________________
"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, Lariet, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
"71 Triumph Trident
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k, 31'
173rd Abn.
The issue of oil borders on religious disputes on this site...
Having said that, and no offense to anyone on here with respect to THEIR oil choices, here is what I am thinking of doing:
Rotella Synthetic 100% 5w-40
or
Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40 100% synthetic
or
Amsoil 100% synthetic 5w-40 100% synthetic
The key is to use 5w-40 to have oil get to the places it is needed as soon as possible --- because it is easy to pump.
The only exception to this rule is if you are in commercial service where you are running the motor many hours (vs. a regular car/truck) that goes through many start-stop cycles.
The only exception to this rule is if you are in commercial service where you are running the motor many hours (vs. a regular car/truck) that goes through many start-stop cycles.
The stop / start is not really an issue. The issue is the idle hours.
I have not seen one person say not to use 5-40 syn oil as it should work just fine.
I will say the use of any syn oil will not extend oil change intervals wich is a big misconseption of swiching to syn.
I dont use syn because I can get motorcraft for next to free.
The issue of oil borders on religious disputes on this site...
Having said that, and no offense to anyone on here with respect to THEIR oil choices, here is what I am thinking of doing:
Rotella Synthetic 100% 5w-40
or
Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40 100% synthetic
or
Amsoil 100% synthetic 5w-40 100% synthetic
The key is to use 5w-40 to have oil get to the places it is needed as soon as possible --- because it is easy to pump.
The only exception to this rule is if you are in commercial service where you are running the motor many hours (vs. a regular car/truck) that goes through many start-stop cycles.
Agree 100% except for the fact that Amsoil has yet to produce proof of API certification. They say they are but can't put the logo on their products for some reason. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Don't want to start an oil war just what has been noted here time and time again
__________________
"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, Lariet, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
"71 Triumph Trident
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k, 31'
173rd Abn.
Agree 100% except for the fact that Amsoil has yet to produce proof of API certification. They say they are but can't put the logo on their products for some reason. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
That is a major issue. API certification is like a "stated income" mortgage loan.
There is no reason NOT to get it done. API does not audit, does not do anything to police it.
On the other hand, the European ACEA is mostly dominated by the Engine manufacturers, not the oil / lube companies.
Totally different attitude, much more rigorous standard.
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