There is more to the FICM than the section you resoldered. I think yours needs to be sent to Ed at FICM.com. Your alternator looks decent to me altho your batteries prob need to be be removed and load tested. (Not hooked up to the truck).

 

Hello, do you know if there are more solders than what are listed in the FICM-repair.pdf? All of the solders are on the power supply side. They total 24 different pads and through-pins.

Thanks, Jim

 

That's all...... but as I said, the OTHER side of the FICM COULD be to blame. Or, heavens forbid, you MIGHT have missed or soldered something wrong or bridged a circuit.

 

Im with Bud your alt looks ok if your getting in the 14 volt range

the batts need to be Load tested separatly

If you can see what batterys volts drop to DURING Crank thats an OK Indicator of condition as this is the TRUE LOAD TEST

you can Also Hydro test batterys and check each cell see if you have a weak cell or something

whats the matter with the truck???now

 

I really appreciate the support, but we are actually FICMrepair.com. Let us know if we can help!

 

jeepsterjc, in your photo... look at the component to the left of the one marked "DALE R0075", this resistor is BURNT and cracked! It should look the same as the one marked "Dale". If the photo in your post is that of the FICM you are working with, then there is NO way it is working properly! You need to get it to a professional for proper repair. The Dale part is a resistor and the part (2N06L05) just above it is a power FET, it maybe bad also and caused the resistor to go up in smoke! Not sure this was the out come of your soldering or maybe it was the original failure mode.

Not sure any of the other persons commenting on your problem are qualified to give you advise since they did not point out this blatant defect!

Your cheapest route maybe to work with your local Dorman retailer and if you have a good relationship with them you can get just the power converter board for less then $100. But the Dorman part appears to be a copy of the OEM part with the same manufacturing issues (poor soldering) from the factory and also boasts "MADE IN CHINA". Dorman part # 904-229; four terminal board).

Note that my OEM unit has worked just fine for the original 138K miles and 7 years and in ambient temps from -31 F to +102 F, puts out the full 48V into a continous 6amps load on the bench with the input voltage as low as 9.5V although it will draw currents upwards of the set limit around 41 amps avg at that low of input voltage. Under these conditions the soldering on the power side must be perfect or there WILL be failures.

 

Yeah that looks bad. That is a photo I got off of internet, not of my ficm power supply, that had a close-up of the area in question.

Here's mine:


Here's what looks like a trace partially covered over with green epoxy:

This isn't my power supply but what could be a trace is circled in yellow. The only way to know would be to dig into the schematic or to do a continuity test...

I bought a Dorman board yesterday. I'll check it out when it arrives and report back.

 

then to answer your original question, lead 3 (source) of the power FET should be connected to the right end of the Dale resistor and the junction of the two Dale resistors are connected to circuit ground. Note that in the photo of your power converter the power FET has small ***** of solder along one side of the case, chances are at some point it has been overheated and it also looks as though the soldering on lead 3 of the FET is very poor (balling the solder up on top of the lead does not help)!

 

theonlypheonix- Thank you. I really really appreciate your help. Yes, those two soldersactually have too much solder on them. I cleaned up the blob on the DALE. The one on the 3rd leg of the FET I left in case I was going to come back and bridge it to the DALE.

I've soldered up programmed and tuned a Megasquirt EFI on my LT1 and none of the solders looked that bad!

Do you know what function this circuit performs? The truck runs awesome and the only voltage that my Scangauge2 shows as maybe low is battery V after cranking and FMP V right after cranking and engine running.

Battery volts just after the engine finishes cranking and is running are 11.4 ish +-
FMP volts are 41 volts and after one minute with battery volts up to 12+ it is almost at 44...
After 2 minutes- charging on, battery V is 13+, FMP v is 45 +, 1 minute later 47

 

On top of bridging the trace back together I need to find out why it blew in the 1st place...

I'm hoping it was from a poor charging system. The truck has a new alternator on it...

I checked the wire harness chafe points and they were ok except for the one on the front end of the driver side valve cover. The plastic loom was nearly rubbed through but still intact.

My wife had a road trip planned for tommorow... Hmmm ? Is it safe to go?

 

Your call... we've told you the voltage should NEVER drop that low......

 

FMP shouldn't ever dip below 45 volts regardless of what you do. The reason that the voltage rises after some run time is that the amperage load through the module decreases as the engine oil temp increases. It plateau's with a three amp draw at 130 degrees oil temp, but starts out with a 30 amp draw.

With voltages like that, I wouldn't necessarily be concerned enough not to go on 'one last' trip with it, but you are absolutely on borrowed time.

Let me know if we can help!

Ed

 

OK, I got it. I guess I'm one of those guys (not usually, really!) who needs to really get it spelled out... like get told a couple of times, to get it to sink in. The 6.0 is all new to me and when I read about it and researched everything about the 2003 - 2007s I didn't focus on the FICM at all- just the egr, cooling system, oil cooler stc connection... because that is what everyone here in my area has experienced. They've all said that the 6.0 is an amazing engine and the F350 SD a great truck. There are loads of them here in the forest industry working hard every day and doing it year in year out reliably. That's good enough for me.

Now I understand that the voltage should never go below 45 v. Anytime. For sure I'll complete the circuit and re-install it and check. I'll also look for other possible shorts in the wiring. If it functions by the book, I'll use the Dorman and store the repaired ficm in a hard box under the back seat.

 

03 F350 Dual 6.0 Ford starting to run rough and lack of power. Changed one battery that was not holding under load and still having issues. I have replaced all injectors in the last 10K as I find it easier to do a complete side (all 4) when one goes. So now all after market rebuild injectors. So I decided its time to look into the FICM as the issue.

7 screw setup, On key on it drops to 15.8 volts then after buzz it jumps back to 47.3. With truck running and idle its 36.1. These are with truck cold as forum told me to. Guess its time to get the FICM pulled and send to someone. Who is good and also supports this forum? I see a few names out there but want to know who is the best and can get this done right for me. 03 with 92K miles and still spending money like she has 400K on her. I wish I had bought the early 03 with 7.3. I also a have a 99 F250 with 7.3 and LOVE, Yes I said LOVE that truck / engine combo. Just don't tell my wife about me and my 99!!

Thanks
JJ

 

It's hard to believe anyone here still has to ask. But we aim to please, so here is THE MAN!
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair

He posted just three posts back.