Tested my FICM today and had an interesting situation arise. The only time the truck would start was while I had the multimeter set to the left screw on the 7 screw type FICM and the other end grounded to the battery. As soon as I removed the multimeter the truck would just crank but not fire as it was doing before I tried testing it. Has anyone else ever run into a situation like this?
Just a small tip for all those trying to test without a helper. I work with electronics every day and I always like to use "jumpers" short pieces of wire with roach clips on the ends. Stick a t-10 torx bit in the end of the screw and attach your lead to it so there is no chance of shorting out to the case. Put your volt meter facing the drivers seat using the stand on the back of the volt meter if provided. Then you have your volts infront of your face without needing a helper. Good luck hope this helps a little.
Nice right-up bicmic.
I have an issue where my truck won't start unless the block heater has been pluged in for at least 4 hours. This started last week. I have had the truck over a year and have never had the issue. Outside temp has not been below 40deg.
Do you have a clue?
You can read the blow-by-blow events here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...vibration.html
Newbie here..03 6.0 has the same symptoms..cold start, smokes, etc. Plan on giving it this test ASAP. I've had the truck 6 mos now, love it, but it does have 205K on it. Cold starts (anything over 8-10 hrs) or very cold nights..I have to let the truck warm up 5-10 before I can move it..not to mention it sounds and smokes like hell. Not burning oil, Injection pump was replaced before I bought it ( I know because I had to take it back because the stealership didn't put the J tube in correct..yup that shut me down) and I don't feel it is an injector..I could be wrong as I am not a mechanic..only know enough to get me in trouble...lol.
Wanting to know it you have to replace the FICM will one from any 6.0 work or does it need to be for the year I have?
2003-2007 FICM's are the same. It is the programming flashed to the unit that is different. I have swapped units to my truck several times. If the FICM has a strategy similar to your truck, it will run fine. There will just be a VIN mismatch error between the FICM and PCM.
After reading a ton of threads on FICM's, I really think that the best approach to a bad FICM is to send it to someone that can both repair the FICM and upgrade it for greater reliability.
There are probably a few choices out here, but I have chosen to use Ed at FICMrepair.com. Not that individuals can't do their own work, but over the years of reading postings on it, it has become evident that there are many things that can go wrong w/ an amateur solder job AND us amateurs just don't know all the components to upgrade (let alone how to get the parts).
I for one am glad that there are professionals out there that are good, reliable, offer fantastic customer service and are fairly inexpensive (thanks Ed)!
I am biased, but of course agree with your assessment.
I have repaired literally thousands of these at this point and STILL find myself periodically coming up with something new.
There are a myriad of things that go wrong with the DIY path. Further, I've uncovered incredibly significant flaws with the DIY directions that are out there.
While I can understand trying to save a few dollars with the economy the way it is, I've seen (WAY more often than not) that the DIY repair jobs create materially more heartache and expense than what would have been incurred had the module just been sent out to a shop that specializes in these modules.
Go to post #248 for some corrections to my early post
As far as testing the FICM goes, you have to test the voltage when the engine is cold, and preferabbly when the ambient temps are less than 65*F - like, sitting outside overnight cold. Then, test it Key On Engine Off, during cranking, during cold start running, and during cold running (like, within a minute of the truck starting) at 2,000RPM.
Hi everyone. I've just resoldered my FICM following the ficm-repairpdf.
My ficm tested 48 volts koeoff and 22 volts key on engine cranking. It would never start... Now I have 44 voltscranking and running and the engine starts easier. BUT-
I noticed, while doing the repair that the unit may have a blown trace. Take a look please and tell me what you think. The trace is on the upper AA-425 regulator - lower leg... From the images I see on internet the trace may go to one side of the surface mount resistor.
I have the FICM partially installed in case you guys say "Yeah- blown trace.... Fix it and you'll have 48 volts..."
I did the FICM repair and installed it back in the truck. I also have a Scangauge2 now and can monitor it better.
My batteries are old. The alternator "looks" to be new. Yesterday after I had the FICM installed I checked the FICM voltages (off, cranking and running) and they were ALL 45 to 48 volts out of the FICM- It was hot outside but the engine was cold.
This morning the temp outisde was 51 degrees... these are the voltages this morning:
KOffEOff battery V = 12.4 usually
KOnEoff and the battery V = 11.2
KOnEoff FICM V = 47
KOnCranking FICM V = 45 - 47
Engine Running Cold (first 2 minutes of engine run) FICM V = 42 volts climbing to 45
Engine Running Cold (first 2 minutes of engine run) Battery V = 11.4 to barely 12 V
Engine Running Cold (AFTER 2 minutes of engine run) Battery V = 12.2 climbing to 13.4 ish
Engine Running Cold (AFTER 3 minutes of engine run) Battery V = 13.4 climbing to 14.0 ish
Engine Running Cold (AFTER 2 - 3 minutes of engine run) FICM V = 46 volts climbing to 47.5
I think the charging system is weak. I need to load test the batteries. I was already prepaired to buy 2 batteries... I'm thinking about rebuilding the alternator while I'm at it, too.
Well, what do you guys think?
I'd really like to know what the opinions are.
Also, after a re-soldered FICM tests out OK, do they usually last?? I hope so. Thanks everyone.
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