I know by now everybody checks to make sure the bolts have not backed out any but this is a little different.I've been having trouble with my top bolt backing out some for awhile now like many others.So,I had the starter off while changing the dipstick flange oring and decided to investigate the bolt and inner threads.I cleaned the female threads with brake cleaner and started the bolt in the threads.Everything felt fine until I got about halfway in and I could still move the bolt up and down conciderably.I took the original bottom bolt to the parts store and bought two just like it.Screwed one of the new bolts in the top threads and it fit like a glove and tightened up good.Pulled it back out and installed the starter with the top/bottom bolts.I was able to really get the top bolt tight this time(bottom has always tightened up good).Long story....my truck is second hand and I guess someone just grabbed a bolt out of a tool box and put in that top starter bolt.The starter even sounds different now because it is bolted up tight.Maybe this will help others
I don't know but it was my problem.I could tell a difference in the two bolts when I had them out and took the time to compare.I would try to tighten that top bolt someone had in there and it would get spongy on me before it would get real tight.So,I would stop.....I was just about to drill,tap and install a helicoil when I found this out.
Sorry I did not ask the exact specs on the bolts I bought at the store,I just bought two that matched the original bottom bolt and ran home.
The bolts are Metric. They are 10mm - 1.50 - 40.
In English: 10mm theads, 1.50 thread pitch, 40mm thread length
1996 F350. 7.3 PSD, E4OD, 4x4, D60, just starting....
1985 F-350 Work truck. 6.9 Diesel IDI, T-19, 2wd 3.55 Ford 10.25....Planning a fully built 6.9 with PSD turbo, ZF5, Dana 60, 5.13's with ARB's - Scrapped
1991 F-Superduty Work truck. 7.3 Diesel IDI, ZF5, 2wd, 5.13's, 12' x 8' x 4' stake dump. Planning a nasty 6.9 and Dana 60 swap
IDI's make me
I have had the same problem too - had to tighten it when I change oil.
Seems the bottom bolt was replaced with a 1 1/4 long 3/8 - 16 thread. To make a long story short, I'm out for a burger and I hit the starter to leave and hear a loud pop, then the starter motor is just spinning. I look under the truck and see the starter hanging by the cables getting the negative ground path through the stabilizer bar. The bottom bolt was laying there and the top ear of the starter was broken off. I removed the top bolt, put the starter back on and replaced the top bolt and broken piece and held the starter in place while someone started the truck for me. Drove it home ready to helicoil the bottom hole when I noticed the difference in the bolts. Cost me a new starter and a couple of longer correct bolts but I didn't have to helicoil it.
If it feels loose, check to see if it is the right bolt. Most if not all metrics have numbers on the heads of the bolts.
Ever since putting my new High Torque DB starter in last spring, I've checked and rechecked my bolts and can't find any looseness at all... roughly 15,000 miles and no issues yet, but I'll keep an eye on them all the same.
__________________ Pete (F250_) -- PAA#19 '02 F250 PSD, CC, SB, XLT, 2WD: 273K miles
Basic reliability mods with a few minor performance enhancements. '03 Excursion (Eddie Bauer) PSD, 2WD, 183K miles - Stock. http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/7pt3/Mods.html
I had a similar situation, like many of you, with the top bolt working itself out. What I found was that the threading at the beginning of the housing (female threads) was stripped, and the factory bolt was not long enough to "catch" the threads. I changed the top bolt with a 50mm length (original is 40mm) and it worked great. In addition, I used the blue locktite when re-installing the bolts.
2011 F250 XLT 4x4 Crew Cab SWB Auto
2010 Shelby GT500 Torch Red w/White stripes
i have threaded bolts and nuts holding the starter on....not sure if this is original but its what i have to work with. If need be I will grind them off....i was just wondering if they are factory or not
Doesn't sound like it. They are metric bolts that can easily be mistaken for 3/8 bolts. I couldn't thardly tell the difference. Could be there is enough good threads left in case to allow a bolt to work if you can get the old ones out. Keep us posted.
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