I bought this truck three years ago and have used it for work mostly. During the three years (mostly driven short distances) I have put 10k miles on it for a total mileage of 224,000. I have always changed the oil on it. The truck has always seemed not right. It has always had a weird little miss that was in first and second around mid to high rpms. The problems seems to go away in third gear. Along with this miss is whiteish/blue smoke. The truck has a new mechanical lift pump, one new injector in #8, 7 new glow plugs (need to try the liquid wrench trick), new cps. I think that is it.
On a recent trip (400miles) the engine sounded really loud. I had plenty of oil so I decided to do an oil change when I got back home.
During the oil change I started snooping around the truck for problem areas and found some loose bolts on the exhaust manifolds and pre-turbo exhaust pipes. I tightened all this up and did a HPOP flush at the same time as the oil change. When I added the last quart of oil it was 50% lucas oil stablizer. When I restarted the engine it was very quite and smooth for ten seconds (HPOP cycles oil quick!).
The loud noises from the engine were gone now but the miss in first and second are still there. This prompted me to check fuel pressure. I was running 30-50 at idle and decided to do the bb mod. After which I am at 50-70psi. On the test drive the truck was much smoother but still has the missing and such in first and second.
I am considering rebuilding all the injectors with a DIY kit but would like some thoughts from the list members as to other problems that need to be looked at first.
sounds like injector o rings to me? do you get any smoke on start up? if you rev it out of gear it should rev smooth all the way to redline? if you try to rev it to red line out of gear do you get any smoke?
When the truck first starts it smokes a little when it is cold, normal I believe. If I rev it out of gear before the gauge shows warm it will smoke and miss quite a bit. After it is warmed up it will do the same thing but not as bad. If it is o rings should I just do o rings or get a stage one DIY kit from rosewood with machined pieces.
When the truck first starts it smokes a little when it is cold, normal I believe. If I rev it out of gear before the gauge shows warm it will smoke and miss quite a bit. After it is warmed up it will do the same thing but not as bad. If it is o rings should I just do o rings or get a stage one DIY kit from rosewood with machined pieces.
You really need to ask your wallet and wife that question.LOL
If in fact it was an o-ring you are not out much money. If you have injector problems and you just do o-rings you now have to do it again.
It really depends on how much you want to put into this fix.
I also assume you have inspected your UVCH and all wires leading to VC's.
You may also want to do a buzz test and cylinder contribution test if you can.
I did both gaskets and wiring harnesses when I did the glow plugs. I replaced the number eight injector at that time as well. Wish I could find that injector and take it apart to see how warn it was. I am not sure how old the injectors are. It seems that the engine was out of the truck at one time as I have found a few signs of it. The wife ok'd the budget for now on the premise that I can learn on this truck and get the one I want later. So I am doing everything budget just to see what I can do. I don't know how to do a buzz test or where to get the tool to do that. A few shops I have been to in North Idaho look at me funny when I start asking pointed questions about the truck. I have taken it to shops and they have quoted me a new engine for lots of money and the tech asks in the same breath if he can buy it from me for cheap. So I would like to fix the truck.
I installed the 10k mod this morning and took the truck for a test run. First thing I noticed is the truck is much smoother and doesn't want to stall when I let the clutch out with out throttle. The mid to high rpm missing is gone now and the truck pulls very nicely through the gears. I am wondering if this is a sign that the sensor is bad. I am sure the injectors need a little TLC but I was suprised by the differance the 10k mod made. any thoughts?
One other thing I noticed the power from 2500-3000 is almost gone now. Maybe that is the HPOP crapping out. Could the HPOP be bad and the 10k mod maxed it out in the lower rpm ranges which helped the truck run and now I am missing power on top because the pump is maxed out?
Wow, when i did the 10k mod i noticed top end hp more than bottom end in the lower gears... this is strange. unplug the ICP. if there is oil in that connector that is a sign the ICP sensor is bad.
The rubber grommet that seals the plug is very soft and seems to have been exposed to oil or something. In fact when I unpluged it the first time the rubber seal fell off into the valley of the engine! I will take a good look in there with a flash light tomorrow and see if there is oil in the connection. You think the HPOP is fine though? I don't have a high pressure gauge for the oil pump to test it. I am wondering how the ICP works. Did the 10k mod move the dead spot in the ICP further up the power curve? How does the 10k mod affect the fuel tables?
GOT A 3" DP FOR 20$!! Can't wait to pick it up. I want to do the 6637 mod first and then do the EBPV delete and the DP at the same time!!
10k fools the icp into thinking you have low hp oil pressure by using a resistor. the computer reads this and adjusts the oil pressure up accordingly. i would GUESS that if the 10k helped on bottom and killed top you MIGHT have a week hpop, BUT without actually testing it you cant be sure. there are two ways to test it. 1 is to get a physical guage and attach it too the hpop or a high pressure rail, the other is to take a scan tool and read the pressure it outputs while you are driving. im not sure of the numbers that are good or bad but i know to test it this way you definately have to take your 10k mod out. Some one else with know the #s
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"The only reason most American Families do not own an elephant is because they have never been offered one on an installment plan"
10k fools the icp into thinking you have low hp oil pressure by using a resistor. the computer reads this and adjusts the oil pressure up accordingly. i would GUESS that if the 10k helped on bottom and killed top you MIGHT have a week hpop, BUT without actually testing it you cant be sure. there are two ways to test it. 1 is to get a physical guage and attach it too the hpop or a high pressure rail, the other is to take a scan tool and read the pressure it outputs while you are driving. im not sure of the numbers that are good or bad but i know to test it this way you definately have to take your 10k mod out. Some one else with know the #s
I can show you a graph of my ICP duty cycle and HPOP pressure while I am driving loaded (up hill WOT) in 4th gear.
I have a 15 degree pump with split shot injectors, and my pump is healthy.
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1997 F250 PSD 4x4 5 Speed: 6637 Intake, ISSPRO Boost and Pryo, 315/75/16 A/Ts, AB 130cc Injectors
1996 Mustang GT: with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 (Race Car) 10.76@122 with a 1.52 60'
1999 28' Classic Dominator (Race Car Hauler)
"just cause its smoking, don't mean its broken"
Mustangmatt96gt Did your scan gauge make that graph? or did you plot the data in a spread sheet and make it that way? I would like to get a scan gauge and do some testing on the truck but I am not sure what to get. I have a Innova Equus 3120 sitting here and I don't think it will work.
I will look for a high pressure oil gauge today and hook it up to see what is going on and I will take the 10k mod out before taking notes on what is happening. I am half way suspicous of the ICP sensor as there were a few times in the past when the truck would suddenly shut down or stop firing and then resume running as if nothing happened. Weird how all the smoke that was happening in the middle of the power band is gone now. It starts much easier as well....
No, my scan gauge did not make that.. Infact I had another fellow stroker do that for me... but what he did was copied the data from his AutoEngiuity and put it in Excel.
I would take the ICP out and see what your scanner shows.. the main thing would be to make sure the values are level, they will probably be higher than mine though since i have split shots, and they require more oil than a single shot.
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1997 F250 PSD 4x4 5 Speed: 6637 Intake, ISSPRO Boost and Pryo, 315/75/16 A/Ts, AB 130cc Injectors
1996 Mustang GT: with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 (Race Car) 10.76@122 with a 1.52 60'
1999 28' Classic Dominator (Race Car Hauler)
"just cause its smoking, don't mean its broken"
Take the ICP out like take the mod out right? but leave the sensor in place and hooked up.... Good data I think I will copy it and put it in my file. My truck is a 1997 as well and I seem to recall seeing to holes on the injector tip.. Is that split shot?
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I bought this truck three years ago and have used it for work mostly. During the three years (mostly driven short distances) I have put 10k miles on it for a total mileage of 224,000. I have always changed the oil on it. The truck has always seemed not right. It has always had a weird little miss that was in first and second around mid to high rpms. The problems seems to go away in third gear. Along with this miss is whiteish/blue smoke. The truck has a new mechanical lift pump, one new injector in #8, 7 new glow plugs (need to try the liquid wrench trick), new cps. I think that is it.
