Is yours a California truck, or does it have AB injectors?
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1997 F250 PSD 4x4 5 Speed: 6637 Intake, ISSPRO Boost and Pryo, 315/75/16 A/Ts, AB 130cc Injectors, 3.5" straight pipe
1996 Mustang GT: with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 (Race Car) 10.76@122 with a 1.52 60'
1999 28' Classic Dominator (Race Car Hauler)
"just cause its smoking, don't mean its broken"
I wish I new how to tell. I believe it was sold in canada and brought here by someone. The reason I think this is the writing under the hood is english and french. I am not sure what is on the canadian version of a 1997 F350 4x4 cab and chassis. 1st gear is awful low though.
IPR is on the back of the HPOP. check the ICP for oil in the connector. if no oil in there the sensor should be good. if you get ahold of a scanner look at the data while your driving. look at the ICP duty cycle and it should be in the upper 2000's at least i believe. also check for codes on it. it may not light the CEL, but may set a code. if your running out of oil it should set the CEL for ICP above or below desired..
My icp went bad cause it couldnt read low pressure at idle make my engine run bad. Normal driving was fine. I have a 14 year old hpop pushing 2300 psi at 3000 rpm I think thats good. Icp's do funny things to an engine when they go bad same with cps. I also had oil in the connector. And also watch the pressure from the Hpop when you use the scanner.
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Ronnie Warfield
1995 F 250 Turbo diesel reg cab 2wd
6637 mod, 3 inch dp, lost kitty, GPR mod, 120v idm, 2500 watt inverter
Maryland Chapter member
My icp went bad cause it couldnt read low pressure at idle make my engine run bad. Normal driving was fine. I have a 14 year old hpop pushing 2300 psi at 3000 rpm I think thats good. Icp's do funny things to an engine when they go bad same with cps. I also had oil in the connector. And also watch the pressure from the Hpop when you use the scanner.
ya you check the HPOP by watching the ICP i think... i can't quite remember. gotta get my hands on a scanner again... LoL
I will have to find a scanner or take a chance on the icp. Is there an online source for that or should I buy one straight from the dealer at 175 bucks.
travis I need an ICP to check the new truck i just bought. i got bad icp codes on it when i scanned. You wanna sell it, or let me borrow it to see if it helps lol? im gonna be back in austin again this weekend.
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"The only reason most American Families do not own an elephant is because they have never been offered one on an installment plan"
travis I need an ICP to check the new truck i just bought. i got bad icp codes on it when i scanned. You wanna sell it, or let me borrow it to see if it helps lol? im gonna be back in austin again this weekend.
just give me a holler man, your more than welcome to try it out to see if it helps. if it helps you can pay me for it so bring cash. LoL i think i paid like $150 for it at ford about a month ago.. PM me if you wanna do that and i will shoot you my number. i will be building a gas burner here so i will be around.
haha. yeah, there are a few of us running around here. not too many strokes around that can hold their own to all the dodges around though. i know of a few, but most of them you see with exhaust and guages are likely their only mods. not many people here go for injectors, chips, intercoolers, nitrous.. ok i'm gettin' carried away, but ya if you were in austin i would help you out just the same buddy. Just about anyone here on FTE is cool by me and i will help at any time if i can do so. haha.
i can still help you from here though i just can't get u parts. haha. did you check that sensor?????????? like i said. if there is oil in that connector(unplug and look in where the connector plugged in. there is usually oil standing there) then that sensor is TOAST. you can also unplug it and drive it to see if it changes anything now if you do this then when you pull codes with a scanner you will pull a code for the ICP, but if the ICP is good then you can just clear that code out and not worry about it.
There wasn't any oil in the connector. I need to round up a scanner and a proper mechanical oil pressure gauge. I would like to run actual numbers vs what sensors read just to see what might be going on. But before I do that I will probly put the 3" dp in that arrived today. I am afraid that I have high egts and if I don't get that in there asap I will have a few more things than a sensor or two to worry about. I figure with a mechanical gauge I can trouble shoot the system pretty good. But a scanner would be real nice to back up what I find. I gotta get my hands on an intercooler and some injectors soon as well
i just checked your miles that you posted. the likely hood of your HPOP being bad is pretty unlikely. the HPOP doesn't go bad often, but i will say they can get weak so its worth checking, however, with you having a stock truck i doubt that is your issue. how about this for a test.. with the truck running and in nuetral at an idle... stand on the gas and let it rev to 3000 rpms. it should rev smoothly, BUT if it revs slowly then once it gets to around 2500 rpms or so it jumps up and revs fast then your injector o-rings are shot.
so thats 2 things for you to check now. have you checked the fuel pressure? do this by using a cheap tire pressure guage and measure it at the schrader valve(basically a wheel valve stem valve) on the fuel pressure regulator.
to figure out if your truck has splits i believe you can look at the fuel pump in the valley to figure it out. if it has a BIG saucer on there that looks like it makes it hard to change the pump you have split shot injectors. split shots are not by nozzles. nozzles are the same. single shots fire one big shot of fuel(nozzles have like 7 holes or something). split shots will fire a small shot of fuel then will fire the rest of the shot a tiny bit later. this allows the fire to begin in the cylinder so when the big shot is unloaded it can burn faster and more effieciently. the split shot injectors take more high pressure oil to run than the single shots do though so they arent as desirable for performance b/c you would have to have a huge HPOP to run a big set of split shots where as singles don't need near as much. theres ya a small injector lesson.
now with the injector talk. if you check all other things and it passes it is possible for your problem to be injectors. if it misses according to pedal pressure(like it misses at half throttle and you let off and it stops missing) you may have some worn poppets in the injectors allowing high pressure oil to bleed off. this is hopefully not your problem though so save this idea for VERY LAST effort to fix the miss. LoL. just check all the other things first
if your miss is temperature related and it misses and all kind of things out of gear then i would look into the injector o-rings, but it could also maybe be the EOT(engine oil temperature sensor) perhaps? i'm not too sure on the EOT, but the EOT controls injection timing based on oil temp. basically with the oil cold the computer adds more injection timing to compensate for how badly the truck would run if it was to run on normal injection timing on the cold oil. cold oil doesn't flow as easily, injectors run on oil, so on the cold engine they increase injection timing to make it run better on cold oil. i'm not too sure how you would test this sensor though to tell if it was bad..
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