Oil recommendations

[95bigtime]

Gonna change HPOP oil this weekend and also wanted some input of lighter weight oil for winter-I have heard of some guys running 5-40. Not sure what 5-40 oils are diesel safe I don't want foamy oil in HPOP. Any sugestions? Also where can I get the lighter oils?

[triskadek]

The Shell Rotella T synthetic is 5-40, and quite popular if expensive compared to Rotella T dino, but then synth always is.

[c00nhunterjoe]

lots of guys on here swear by the 5-40 synthetics, i have never used it. i have no issues into the single digits with motorcraft and mobil delvac 15-40

[rodneywar]

I use delo 700 le 15w40 Never had any problems same. with rotella 15w40 and i have 260,000 on my truck

[Benny D]

Ive used Rotella 15-40...never had a problem....wierd i thought diesel oil was suppose to be dirtier than reg. oil....i change mine every 3500 miles...not dirty at all....they say to do it at 5000...but i dont like their recommendations lol

[DZL JIM]

Coming from an injector guy, injector wear is 100% related to oil change intervals.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.

One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.

[c00nhunterjoe]

one oil change every 2 years???? that is the kind of thing that scares me. i beleive firmly in the every 3k mark. i get mad if i change mine at 3500 miles. i also beleive that not all oils are the same, but simliar. they all start out at the same place but its all about what each guy puts in the oil. as far as conventional oil i like ford motorcraft first and mobil delvac second with shell rotella 3rd. i saw no difference in performance with rotella to delvac but the delvac smells nicer out of my crankcase vent mod...lol and its typicly 1 dollar per gallon cheaper in my area.

jim, i need to get in contact with you as i am approaching the 300k mark. i want to look into my options for injector rebuilds/upgrades

[DZL JIM]

It's not unreasonable to get 20k - 30k miles between changes with Synthetic (abotu 2 years for me, I don't really drive much). The key is the bypass filter.
If it's shorter then it's shorter. I know synthetics are good stuff, nothing like dino oil.

[Talyn]

I really want to do the Bypass filter setup for my rig.
The initial price is crazy, but so worth it.

I am hitting 5k miles way to easy with my truck.
Last oil change was early with the injectors, and oil is still super black.
This one will be early with the cheep oil, we will see how good it is.

[95bigtime]

Originally Posted by DZL JIM

Coming from an injector guy, injector wear is 100% related to oil change intervals.
I recommend oil changes at 2500 - 3000 miles, and your injectors will last 400k miles.
If you change oil at 5000 miles like Ford says, they will last 200k miles. I have seen it over and over......
IMO it's more important to change your oil more frequently than to spend more money on 'better' oil (other than synthetics, you can't go wrong there). I switched to cheap Tractor Supply or WalMart brands in a couple of my trucks. Still had clean oil and only ran them for about 3k miles.
I have AMSOIL in my DD now, only have 8k miles on it with no winter time, so I'm anxious to see how it does when cold and for longevity.

One oil change every 2 years is attractive to me, if it works like it should with the bypass filter and oil tests.

Im afraid my injectors are already shot with 165,000. bought truck a few months ago and the previous owner replaced 2 injectors (with used ones from the donor engine with 150,000 on it) and i have an miss that comes and goes that I think is probably an injector. it seems like a 1 cyl miss-not completely dead, but definately not 100%. Don't have the cash to call Jim right now so I guess I will try another used inj for now. Any tips on finding the weak injector-buzz test is loud and I cant hear any differences, and it passes cyl contribution test.. Where do I go from here?

[muktown1]

Originally Posted by 95bigtime

Gonna change HPOP oil this weekend and also wanted some input of lighter weight oil for winter-I have heard of some guys running 5-40. Not sure what 5-40 oils are diesel safe I don't want foamy oil in HPOP. Any sugestions? Also where can I get the lighter oils?

just so you know the hpop and engine use the same oil. when you change the engine oil it also changes the hopo oil. no need to suck oil out of the hpop. and i live in wisconsin and it gets pretty cold i use motorcraft 15-40 in the fall/summer, and i use rotella 5-40synthetic in the winters. helps the truck start muck better. you can get both oils and motorcraft filters at wal mart

[DZL JIM]

95bigtime,
If you experience a miss at idle, you can unplug the injectors one at a time to find which one is not firing. But if it's missing the CCT will pop it out, too, with no trouble. If the CCT passes, then you may have other issues. It's a reliable tool and has been very accurate for me. ???

Originally Posted by muktown1

just so you know the hpop and engine use the same oil. when you change the engine oil it also changes the hopo oil. no need to suck oil out of the hpop...

Although this isn't totally correct, it's not totally incorrect either...
By just draining the motor oil, you will not also be draining the HPOP res. That's how you made it sound, to me anyway.
It's always a good idea to suck the HPOP res and head rails when changing oil. If you don't, you're leaving 1 qt of bad oil in the motor (res), and about 1 qt in each head. If you're changing oil , why not change all of it?
And yes, by just running the motor you will 'change' the oil in the res and heads, but as I mentioned it will all still be dirty oil.
It's worth the extra 5 minutes with a vac pump to get it out of there, IMO of course.

William,
You can make your own bypass set-up if you take the time and find the parts. Filter head and lines and such don't really cost that much. I just didn't have the time and wanted/needed one asap so I went with the Amsoil unit.

[Talyn]

Originally Posted by DZL JIM

9William,
You can make your own bypass set-up if you take the time and find the parts. Filter head and lines and such don't really cost that much. I just didn't have the time and wanted/needed one asap so I went with the Amsoil unit.

I like the ams oil unit. and I really dont know a whole lot about bypass systems.
It's one of those things I'd like to know more about, but just dont care to research it. Doesn't really interest me, but i want to do the project.
So i figured I'd just eventually buy a system and put it in.

[muktown1]

thats true. i guess i did not realize that the hpop held that much. the way the first post sounded to me was he was under the impression they were separate and he was going to change just the hpop oil. sorry for the confusion

[Talyn]

HPOP Res is fed by LPOP.

It's all one system.
But the HPOP doesn't drain back due to a check valve.
So you have to suck it out if you want to change it.
it takes a while.