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Old 11-02-2009, 11:11 PM
svector51 svector51 is offline
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V10 won't restart when warm - Deja Vu all over again.

A year ago this month I had a problem with my 2004 V10 (F350 superduty) not starting when warm. The problem was intermittent from November to March. I had the idle control replaced in November but it didn't help. In March I had one of the fuel pump relays replaced. No problems restarting from March through October. Thought it must have been the relay. Well, it's November again in Northern Virginia and almost a year from the original date of the problem I'm experiencing it again.

Here's what happens:
  • when you try to start the motor it will begin to start and then fail.
  • when the ignition is turned to the on position (but not the start position) you can hear a whirring noise under the hood coming from behind the driver side headlight (below and a little to the right of the air filter canister). More specifically it appears to be coming from a square silver block that has TRW imprinted on it. It will begin to whirr a few seconds after the ignition is turned to the on (not start) position and then the whirring stops in a few seconds.
  • when the vehicle is allowed to sit and cool down completely it will start.
It seems that maybe the fuel pump relay replaced behind the radio wasn't necessary at the beginning of last spring but who knows?

Anyone heard of this problem before? Got any suggestions besides moving to a warmer climate?

Thanks for reading.

svector51
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:13 AM
Fordfanatic4life Fordfanatic4life is offline
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the whir sound is coming from the ABS motor... and its normal...

as far as teh hot restart issue, it sure sound like u got some kind of electrical gremlin..UGH...

those can be a "PITA" to track down... i feel ur pain...
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:15 AM
Mmaxed Mmaxed is offline
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First thing I would do is confirm whether or not the fuel pump is running and delivering pressure. If not running then you have to figure out if it is in the wiring or the pump itself. It can be a hit and miss thing trying to figure this kind of thing out. If you have a good independent mech that is good at diagnostics now would be a good time to let him earn his money.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:15 AM
BareBones BareBones is online now
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I would start by checking voltage at the starter solenoid. If the voltage at the solenoid remains at 12v even after the engine quits trying to start, then you just have to replace your starter.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:35 PM
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A couple of questions:

When trying to start it hot and it stalls, is the starter spinning normally, or does it seem like it has a dead battery?

When you start it, try pushing on the gas-pedal 1/2 to 1 inch and cranking. If the engine starts and keeps running, it sounds like the IAC is bad or you have a vacuum leak, or some other issue that we can work on.

REport back.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:15 AM
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As stated above determine if the fuel pump is running when you turn the key to the start position.
You could have someone turn the key ,while holding your hand on the fuel tank.
If it isn't ,give the tank a little rap with your hand.try again to start.
you could have a faulty fuel pump inertia switch ,i believe its loctade on the pass side beheind the glove box.

Rich
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