Any "How To's" on Oil & Fuel Filter Changes??

[97C5ENVY]

Anyone have a write-up or link to a write-up on how to change the Oil & Fuel Filters on a 2008 F250 6.4L Diesel?? It may sound silly to most but this is my first Diesel Truck....and I know absolutely nothing about diesels. Thanks!

[senix]

fuel filters take a 36mm socket. You can get it at sears. For mine I opened the drain on the lower one, then went up top and removed that one.

Then I removed the lower one. Be careful as you will most likely get fuel to come out with the filter. I used a wiggle tail connected to the socket and I was able to manuver it out.

Use the new o-rings that come with the set, use oil on them after you put them on the caps. Reinstall in reverse order.

Then the book says cycle the key to on position 6 times to purge the air and it should start.

Here is where I had my issues...so what I learned is to hold down the fuel cutoff switch on the passenger side front dash. I held that down while cranking and it primed. That was after I did the 6 cycles. Some of the fuel shutoff switches are sensitive so holding it down solved the problem.

That should help with some of it.

[Reave1]

Oil

36MM socket, torque wrench, Motorcraft filter from wal mart, 3-5qt containers of motorcraft oil from wal mart, 15 qt oil drain pan or 5 gallon bucket.

First get the truck up to operating temp to ensure the oil is viscous enought to drain effectivly.

Second take out drain plug from oil pan.

Third pull dip stick and remove cap with 36mm socket from the smaller r2d2 looking housing with the black cap. ( the larger one is your fuel filter)Pull the oil filter out gently and release the cap from the filter (the top snaps is, you will see)

Wait for all the oil to drain (have a cold one)

Fourth, re-install drain plug in oil pan (replace washer gasket if worn)

Fifth, install new filter and o-ring on cap (box will have diagram and torque specs. Then install filter and cap back into housing (gently)

Sixth, put in the 3 jugs of oil.

Seventh, install dipstick half way.

Eighth, start truck to cycle oil and check dip stick.

Lastly, clean up, dispose of bulk oil and trash.

[senix]

You also need to give it about 20 mins according to the book when changing oil, in order to get it all to drain.

That is why when I have the quick place do it I them only 14 qts.

[97C5ENVY]

Cool! I'll be tackling this task this weekend. Thanks for all the info.

[koboss1]

anyone know the international numbers for the fuel filter's

thanks

[percyad]

Important: When changing the oil filter, make sure the filter cap is stock and not part of an after-market cap+filter combination. When I changed the oil for the first time in my new (to me) 2008 F250, I had a hard time getting the filter out of the cap - struggling and prying finally separated the two. As it turns out, the two were part of an after-market oil filter kit that was not supposed to be re-used.

The next day I just happened to be at the Ford dealership for some other work and saw a note on the wall warning of this situation, so I asked to see a stock cap. Sure enough, the stock cap was different from the cap that I re-used the day before. You can tell the stock cap because it has a round recess inside to catch the snap tabs on the filter. The aftermarket cap was smooth on the inside and didn't have the round recess.

[senix]

always use the motorcraft filters on these engines.

[toolpush]

One thing I found, make sure you have a 6 point socket for the oil drain plug, if you use a 12 point there is a good chance you may round off the edges of the plug, found out the hard way!!!!!!! All in all, not a very difficult task, like senix mentioned, use the new o-rings coated with oil prior to install, I cycled the key 8 times and did not have an issue starting up.

[69cj]

Originally Posted by Reave1

Oil

36MM socket, torque wrench, Motorcraft filter from wal mart, 3-5qt containers of motorcraft oil from wal mart, 15 qt oil drain pan or 5 gallon bucket.

First get the truck up to operating temp to ensure the oil is viscous enought to drain effectivly.

Second take out drain plug from oil pan.

Third pull dip stick and remove cap with 36mm socket from the smaller r2d2 looking housing with the black cap. ( the larger one is your fuel filter)Pull the oil filter out gently and release the cap from the filter (the top snaps is, you will see)

Wait for all the oil to drain (have a cold one)

Fourth, re-install drain plug in oil pan (replace washer gasket if worn)

Fifth, install new filter and o-ring on cap (box will have diagram and torque specs. Then install filter and cap back into housing (gently)

Sixth, put in the 3 jugs of oil.

Seventh, install dipstick half way.

Eighth, start truck to cycle oil and check dip stick.

Lastly, clean up, dispose of bulk oil and trash.

I have not seen the diesel oil at walmart in 5 qt. containers. Only the gasser oil. Be careful on your oil.

As for the 6 point socket, install a Fumoto valve and never round off or strip a drain plug again. You don't even need a wrench. Awesome product.

[Reave1]

Yeah,

At wally world her in south Jersey they sell 5 qt jugs of ford motorcraft powerstroke diesel oil in red containers. The go for about 11.00 a piece and I get my filter there too for about 18.00. Some wal marts might not offer this. I agree though, you need to be very sure your buying the right oil.

[69cj]

Originally Posted by Reave1

Yeah,

At wally world her in south Jersey they sell 5 qt jugs of ford motorcraft powerstroke diesel oil in red containers. The go for about 11.00 a piece and I get my filter there too for about 18.00. Some wal marts might not offer this. I agree though, you need to be very sure your buying the right oil.

Wish they did here, not that it's a major thing. Just makes life a little easier.

[ssharber]

I always remove the top mounted filter first to let it drain into the pan. With it taking 20-30 minutes for all the oil to drain you need to get that filter oil draining out of the filter reservoir so it will drain out with the oil in the pan. When you take off the cap it releases a spring bypass valve which is closed when the cap is tight and then it will drain out when removed.

[97C5ENVY]

I did the oil change...I used Rotella-T 15W40 and it took 14qts. Also used Motorcraft oil filter.

I'm about to do the Fuel Filters, but have a few questions:
- I bought International Fuel Filter kit #FS19797, is this the right filter kit?
- My water seperator valve was clogged and i gently blew compressed air into it and water started flowing but quickly stopped. After a few more attempts i finally gave up on getting it to flow freely. However my jug that i used to catch the water now contain what looked like sand and grass....WTF!!! I can see why my drain is clogged. My question here is when i change the fuel filters will i have access to clean the inside drain area???
- Also when removing filter from under frame rail will there be a large amount of diesel discharged from filter housing?

Thanks!

[Reave1]

I am unsure about the filter kit from international, because I buy my filters from my local Ford dealer's parts deparment to ensure its exact. Be sure you use the 36mm shorty socket for the filter cap otherwise there will be some explitives towards the engineers who thought putting a wiring bundle directly in front of a filter was a really good idea! As far as the amount of diesel, if you drain your valve first there will be minimal diesel expelled. I strongly reccomend saftey glasses though, I got hit in the eye with diesel and it was not fun. You will not have easy access to the valve with the filter off because of the designed location. I suspect the foriegn bodies entered through the base of the drain tube. I would put a rubber cap on the end of it when your done so you can protect it from getting dirt in it for next time. Oh yeah, have fun saving a butload of money doing these yourself!!