390 for old ski boat

[63_390]

Hi, Hope you all don't mind helping out with an FE used in a boat. I have a 1963 Correct Craft Ski Nautique Inboard ski boat. It was originally built with a 352 marinized by Eaton/Interceptor. The original engine is gone. I bought a complete 390 marine engine to replace it but it has been rebuilt with non-original parts. I want good low and mid range torque and will be operating below 4800 RPM Block is a T05 with flat top std bore pistons. Crank is FE cast with FE timing cover. Bores are pitted so I'd like to bore to 060 and use Keith Black flat top cast pistons. There is no bushing in the block for the smaller automotive size distributor shaft. Is this available or do I need to have one made? Heads are D2TE AA. Intake is an early 60's cast iron. Based on what I've read, it sounds like these should be good for my needs but the ports do not match the intake. I'd like to change to an aluminum intake. What intakes will match up to these heads? Also, I'd like the intake to work with the original carter marine carb which has slightly larger secondaries. Thanks for any help and advice

[Krewat]

Anyone got any input?

[fabmandelux]

Welcome to FTE!

I've got an 18' 1960 Sanger V-Drive drag boat with a 428 in it. It has an Edelbrock "torker" intake manifold w/ a 750 Holley double pumper and a Vertex Mag. Does your boat have an enclosed engine? Mine does not so I used a standard automotive engine with a "wet kit" exhaust. If your boat has an enclosed engine compartment you WILL have to use all marine electrical parts because of the danger of explosive gases in the enclosure.

I had my engine block sonic checked, then bored 40 over with Keith Black forged pistons. I'm using an Isky cam and red line at about 6,500.

[Bear 45/70]

Well, you will have a major port mismatch with the '72 head and the early intake manifold and it is the wrong way. The heads are smaller than the intake. It will work but not the best. A 1966 and on iron intake would be better and provide better torque.

Cam wise, go with a marine or an RV cam, low duration (250° to 260°) and a moderate lift in the .480" to .500" range.

Flat top pistons can give you to much compression and you want to stay below 9.5 to 1 or better yet in the 8.5 to 9 to 1 ballpark.

For the real competition ski boat a 6,500 rpm rev limit is not only stupid but hurts low speed out of the hole performance and that's what real ski boats live on.

Oh and since I was a profession recreational marine mechanic I probably know what I am talking about.

[63_390]

Fabmandelux - I'll bet that old flatbottom flys. My boat does have the engine cover so I will be running the marine ignition, starter, alternator, etc. Engine is also a reverse rotation.

Bear - thanks for confirming the intake mismatch problem. How large are the ports on an Edelbrock streetmaster or performer manifold - will they match up with my heads? My max RPM will be 4800.

I may need to have my stock cam reground as I can't find a cam grinder with a reverse rotation blank. The stock cam has the same profile as the police motor, so I'll probably stick with that.

[Krewat]

An Edelbrock performer RPM would be the best bet, and will definitely work with the D2TE heads. Just beware of salt-water and aluminum. If you need to, a stock iron 4bbl would be OK in a pinch.

With the problem of finding a reverse-rotation high-performance cam, you're best bet is probably to put CJ-sized exhaust valves in the heads, and port them as much as possible, to get higher flow. If you need low-end-torque, you might not want to mess too much with the intake valve, but it's still a possibility with the stock/police cam I'd think.

[Redmanbob]

Originally Posted by 63_390

I may need to have my stock cam reground as I can't find a cam grinder with a reverse rotation blank. The stock cam has the same profile as the police motor, so I'll probably stick with that.

I know for a fact that there are marine cams readily available, hav been loking for a thread on another forum where a link was posted. This thread may be of interest. 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: Marine sideoiler cam help C5J 6250A 733U

Will keep looking for the link, but IIRC it was a Comp cam so maybe just try their wesirte and look for marine cams ?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...ne%20cam&dds=1

item # 35-000-5RR FORD 351W Reverse Rotation (Marine Applications) on this site http://www.compcams.com/technical/CamCores.asp

I'm not sure call and ask them. But I have a cam(Crane Blazer 292-2H?) that was reground to a 343941, I looked up the numbers on it and it was a Cleveland item as I recall. Need to double check, my point is that just because it doesn't specify it's an FE cam doesn't mean it wont work. ASK ??'s!

[63_390]

Thanks. Saltwater is not a problem, I'll be on a lake. Original marine exhaust manifolds are also aluminum. What is the advantage of the RPM over the performer for <4800 RPM? Will the Carter carb bolt holes line up with either of these?

Marine cams can be either standard or reverse rotation. It is the reverse rotation cam that I am having problems with. Talked to comp cams and they did not have the correct blanks but could regrind the one I have.

Any advice on the bushing for the distributor shaft in the block?

Thanks

[Bear 45/70]

Originally Posted by Krewat

An Edelbrock performer RPM would be the best bet, and will definitely work with the D2TE heads. Just beware of salt-water and aluminum. If you need to, a stock iron 4bbl would be OK in a pinch.

The best bet is to use a Freshwater Cooling Kit (FWC), then it will not matter what the intake material is. It will also improve engine effeciency with the FWC as the raw water thermostats are all 143°. Where the FWC will be 180° at least.

[MeanGene427]

If it's standard now, why would you want to go right to a .060 overbore? .060 can be a little shaky, and leaves no room for future rebuilds. Might want to let your machine shop look at it first, and bore it the minimum necessary to clean it up. And the stock dished 2V type pistons would put you right around 9.5:1, with decent squish, unlike the pickup pistons that run down in the hole. Barry could get you some with a bit less squeeze, too, but I definitely wouldn't run the flattops. Dockside pump gas and pulling skiers don't blend well with high compression- you're towing a little "trailer"

[63_390]

Yeah, maybe I should go with 030. I just figured why not get a few extra cubes for the same price. Here's the pistons I was looking for. I calculated 9.6:1 using these and 70cc heads and 040 thick gaskets. Thanks.

Summit Racing Part Number UEM-1131H-030

Bore (in) 4.080 in.
Bore (mm) 103.632mm
Piston Style Flat top, with four valve reliefs
Piston Material Hypereutectic aluminum
Compression Distance (in) 1.760 in.
Wrist Pin Style Press-fit
Pin Diameter (in) 0.975 in.
Piston Ring Thickness 5/64 in. x 3/32 in. x 3/16 in.
Quantity Sold as a set of 8.
Notes Replacement for original equipment assembly numbers C6AZ6108A, C6MY6108K, or C6AZ6108AG-AH.

[63_390]

How about the bushing for the FT block with smaller automotive distributor.

Can these be purchased?

Thanks,
Phil

[HOTWRENCH]

If your building a engine for marine use { HEAVY DUTY USE } don't use anything but a good forged piston. Typically forged pistons hold up better in a heavy duty / marine use. Use the minimum overbore reqired to clean up the bore. Use a cam designed for marine service-- Boat design prop size make a difference in cam design. When building a engine for marine use don't take shortcuts , they will bite you in the ass later!! Use the best parts and dont cheap out on anything--- Being stuck out on the lake in the dark sucks!!!

Have A Good Day-----------Hotwrench

[MeanGene427]

Originally Posted by HOTWRENCH

Use the best parts and dont cheap out on anything--- Being stuck out on the lake in the dark sucks!!!

High speed projectiles that used to be cheep engine parts exiting the oilpan in a downward direction in a light-hulled boat also suck very much

[Krewat]

Originally Posted by MeanGene427

High speed projectiles that used to be cheep engine parts exiting the oilpan in a downward direction in a light-hulled boat also suck very much

Two cliches come to mind:

Talk about going down with the ship!

That FE will make a great boat anchor!