That's probably the best advice right there. No matter how hard you try, you will never get the transmission to bolt back up with the transfer case attached.
You indicated you have pulled transmissions before, so you know the basics. The transfer case is a few more bolts, connectors. No big deal. The aluminum cased BW1356 is relatively light compared to the old iron case NP205 I had on my old '78 F-150. It was a man killer to move on your own. Take your time, make notes...very straight forward job.
When we took my M5R2 off of the junker the hardest part was breaking the seal in between the tranfer case and the trans. Other than that all it took was two ratchet straps, a nice socket set and some penetrant.
unbolt t-case, if you have a engine hoist pull the carpet and pull tranny hump pan coulple good rachet straps wrap them around the tranny one toward the front one towards the back put the enigine hoist in though the pass door put the rachet straps thought the hook on the engine hoist un-bolt tranny slow let tranny down with engine hoist helps if you have someone to balance the tranny under truck to balance it. had my tranny out front seal changed and back in, in a hour and a half
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1992 F-250 XLT 4X4 X-cab long box 7.5L 460 CID, E4OD, BW1356, dana 50 , ford 10.25 4.11 posi, K&N, Taylor wires, flowmaster super 40, pro comp 1079 interco trxus m/t.
unbolt t-case, if you have a engine hoist pull the carpet and pull tranny hump pan coulple good rachet straps wrap them around the tranny one toward the front one towards the back put the enigine hoist in though the pass door put the rachet straps thought the hook on the engine hoist un-bolt tranny slow let tranny down with engine hoist helps if you have someone to balance the tranny under truck to balance it. had my tranny out front seal changed and back in, in a hour and a half
I do. And to make things better, I'm going to pull the interior out to clean it up thoroughly anyway!
I have yet to pull the trans out yet.
But, It did not take long to get the interior stripped out, less than an hour.
Removing that cover plate on the trans hump really provides easy acces to the upper bolts and will be a huge help.
something that ive also learned over the years is that its alot easier getting to all the bolts that hold the tranny in by getting as many extensions u can, preferably enough so that your ratchet is behind the the tranny....then u can just lay/sit back there and see every bolt.....u may already know this but i used to try to get to them by laying right under the bellhousing and that makes the job twice as hard as it should be
If you have a tranny jack, pulling the transfer case is a waste of time, IMO.
I switched the transmission in my '91 F150 and found it much easier to pull the trans/tcase out still together and pull apart on the shop floor. I reinstalled the same way.
Back on the road in 2 days- 1 to pull old trans, 1 to bolt tcase on new trans and put everything back in
I forgot to mention it sat for 3 weeks before I started working on it
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'91 F150 x-cab XL 300 six M5OD 4x4 3.08 with LS 6 in a Row Makes It Go!
'88 F250 x-cab 7.3 IDI 5spd 4x4 3.55s
'95 F150 (SOLD)
NEW '79 Chevy crew cab dually
Also can help to drain the tranny and transfer case first, this is especially useful if they aren't fully sealed (for a slip yoke or open between tranny and transfer case).
I found this out the hard way dropping an E4OD/transfer case this summer, made a giant spill all over...
Also watch out for a leak inbetween when you separate them, put a pan underneath to catch any drips.
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