questions while mounting original steering wheel ('57)
#1
questions while mounting original steering wheel ('57)
I have been trying to undo several "cooterboobs" the previous owner "fixed" for me. This time it is the steering wheel and how it mounts onto the sector shaft. The previous owner had the wheel held on by a cotter key through the sector shaft!!! When I had the blinker switch installed and tried to mount the wheel I noticed the the 3-speed gear selector arm moved the whole blinker switch and cowling from left to right. Does anyone know how the cowling is supposed to be attached to the column??? see arrow in pic below:
If you push it too far down the column, the spring is fully depressed and it wont shift into 1st/Rev. Also, another question...how far down the steering shaft should the steering wheel go?? The reason I ask is due to the hole that the cotter key went through and the stripped threads at the tip of the shaft. I realize it should depress the spring there, but how much?? Or put another way, how many threads (in inches) should be sticking up through the steering wheel?? As you can see, there is quite a gap below the steering wheel and the cowling. See add'l pic below:
Any help appreciated!!!
Thanks
If you push it too far down the column, the spring is fully depressed and it wont shift into 1st/Rev. Also, another question...how far down the steering shaft should the steering wheel go?? The reason I ask is due to the hole that the cotter key went through and the stripped threads at the tip of the shaft. I realize it should depress the spring there, but how much?? Or put another way, how many threads (in inches) should be sticking up through the steering wheel?? As you can see, there is quite a gap below the steering wheel and the cowling. See add'l pic below:
Any help appreciated!!!
Thanks
#3
#4
I can only speak for myself and I did not want to tell you that you have to replace either the sector shaft or the steering column, because as Ralph Nader said the way it is at present “it is unsafe at any speed”.
#5
Yes the steering wheel was held on by a cotter key!!! I realize the proper way to install the wheel is with a nut. This is how it was on my '60 and how I plan to reinstall the wheel. That's what I am trying to do is replace to original until I can afford an upgrade.
Kyle, it appears that the lip of the cowling sits down the column about 3/16". Thanks, this is the picture I was looking for!! Can you tell if it is a pressure fit or does it has a tack weld holding it to the column?
Thanks everyone for your concern of my safety, I do appreciate it. I hope to get this back together the way it came from the factory.
Kyle, it appears that the lip of the cowling sits down the column about 3/16". Thanks, this is the picture I was looking for!! Can you tell if it is a pressure fit or does it has a tack weld holding it to the column?
Thanks everyone for your concern of my safety, I do appreciate it. I hope to get this back together the way it came from the factory.
#6
#7
Ideally, you need to replace the steering shaft and column. Unfortunately, the steering shaft goes all the way into the steering box and includes the worm gear. The shifting "bowl" is some sort of a stamped fit onto the column tube as mentioned above. It was normally replaced when failed as you describe. I'm not sure what metal is used but you may be able to disassemble and braze, or even weld, it back together. IIRC, that's what my dad used to do when a customer couldn't (wouldn't) get a new column. As far as the steering wheel, I shouldn't even suggest this and I'm certainly not recommending it but you could tap the top of the shaft one size smaller and fit a new nut. It normally fits down tight on the splines and compresses a spring underneath.
Lou Manglass
Lou Manglass
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