2004 F-250 6.0 DSL King Ranch...Driving home from the moto track with 3 bikes and a 4-wheeler in the trailer...First ABS light comes on..no biggie...10 min later ..all my instruments died ,tach, speedo,trans temp,eng temp,along with, radio ,windows..All of it inop....Turn sigs worked,but dim,,they died later...Truck continued to run good...Kept going to the house about 30 mins of highway..Pulled up in front of house ,went to hit horn ,,and that killed the motor. Never got a ck eng or batt light ,,only the ABS light on.
Truck wouldn't turn over,,just the click,click,click...Ck'd all applicable fuses,,all good. Hooked jumper cable up,,let charge for ten mis or so,,truck started right up,,everything working. ABS light remained on.
With truck running after jump start (jumper cables disconnected),,Got my meter and measured volts at each battery..Both said 12.2 volts...After about 10 mins ...same thing,,all instrumentation died ,, I shut truck off...Tried to restart ,,no dice...click,click,click..Ck'd volts at both batteries,,both read about 10.5 volts.
There's the story...The question..Shouldn't i be seeing 14volts at the batts with the truck running ? Shouldn't i have gotten the Batt idot light if the alternator wasn't putting out enough volts ? The batteries are Duralast Golds,,they are just under a year old. Alternator is origanal equip.
So,,do i have 1 or 2 bad batteries or a bad alternator ? Or something else ? What do you think ??
Thanks in advance
Erik
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2004 F250 6.0 FX4 King Ranch
Last edited by Erik727; 11-01-2009 at 09:34 PM.
Reason: more info
Bad alt. Truck should never die while running if the alt is good. You may have a bad battery now too since the alt is on it's way out. Get the alt tested and yes you should see somthing like 13.5 volts at idle. Be sure to replace both batteries if one shows to be bad. It's bad to replace one at a time on these trucks. One last thing get this fixed asap. Low voltage will kill your ficm and that isn't a cheap part. That is why I recomend replacing both batteries when one is bad. It a lot cheaper than a ficm.
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2006 F-250 Lariat C.C, 18" rockstars w/285/65 nittos, SCT w/custom tunes, Banks Ram-Air Intake, 5" MRBP exhaust w/o kitty, 2.5" levealing kit, readylift air bags, fumoto drain valve, Viper alarm with remote start, 2-10" MTX Subs, drilled and sloted front rotors, ARP studs sitting in shop waiting on other parts. come Join the Texas Chapter!!
Scotty
the alt swap is easy. if you had or have one bad battery it is easy to over work the alternator and melt the diodes. but definately sounds like the alt is down for the count
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2004, f250, ccswb, 4x4, 6.0, psd, lariat, electric tcase, isspro boost/egt/trans, sct x2 w/spartan tunes, 315/75/r16 bfg km stock rims no lift
pretty much stock
Bad alt. Truck should never die while running if the alt is good. You may have a bad battery now too since the alt is on it's way out. Get the alt tested and yes you should see somthing like 13.5 volts at idle. Be sure to replace both batteries if one shows to be bad. It's bad to replace one at a time on these trucks. One last thing get this fixed asap. Low voltage will kill your ficm and that isn't a cheap part. That is why I recomend replacing both batteries when one is bad. It a lot cheaper than a ficm.
Very sound advice texans!
Erik727 - the ABS light is most likely related to the alternator problems.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
One thing that I have found with the abs too. Is that when it comes on it will not turn back off till you drive it. Found that out from wheel bearing problems i have been having fix the problem but the abs lights stays on till I drive a little then it goes off and stays off till have anouther problem. I would think that it is related to the alt in your case
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2006 F-250 Lariat C.C, 18" rockstars w/285/65 nittos, SCT w/custom tunes, Banks Ram-Air Intake, 5" MRBP exhaust w/o kitty, 2.5" levealing kit, readylift air bags, fumoto drain valve, Viper alarm with remote start, 2-10" MTX Subs, drilled and sloted front rotors, ARP studs sitting in shop waiting on other parts. come Join the Texas Chapter!!
Scotty
That's what i figured...Thanks for the help.. I've read all about the bad batteries and FICM problems,,that's why when i had a batt start going last year ,i changed them both..
Thanks again,,i will change alt tomorrow.
pretty simple. use the kickstand on the tensioner bracket just below the alt keep the belt some what taught and it will be very easy. do a search and there are alot of pictures of exactly what im talking about. i use a claw hammer to get enough tension to lock the kick stand. then it is a 9/16 or 1/2 socket or wrench and a 10mm socket or wrench i believe.
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2004, f250, ccswb, 4x4, 6.0, psd, lariat, electric tcase, isspro boost/egt/trans, sct x2 w/spartan tunes, 315/75/r16 bfg km stock rims no lift
pretty much stock
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