can i weld to the center section on my 8.8? I have bottom bag brackets that would go onto the axle but my center section is offset. I looked at it today and was wondering if i could just notch the bracket around the area needed and weld it to it. I thought they plug weld the axle tubes in the center section? So heres a pic!! The area im looking at is on the left side of the pic!
As far as "can you weld to the centre-section", I'd say yes, of course. You can modify the mount and weld it where you need it.
The issue I have is more one of suspension dynamics. As long as it would not bind there, if side to side travel is still OK, then no worries. Just check those issues as you go.
its cast iron it would never hold. even with cast iron rod would not have strength. its not a high grade of cast a lot of impurties
Actually you can - but it requires some special techniques: what you need is a stick of 1/4" plain gray iron rod, some borax flux and a torch. As well, you should preheat the part, then let it cool VERY slowly for best results.
Regardless - in looking at your photo - it would "appear" that you may have enough room to mount it on the axle - especially if you made a bracket that brought the bag mount over to where you wanted it. May save you the hassle of trying your hand at cast welding!
Thanks for the replies!!!! Here is a pic of the bracket i would like to use. Im thinking about cutting off just enough of the right side to clear the axle and adding another one just enough inside to reach the axle tube.
Hey Roger..
That looks a little tight..Is there enough room for the bag?..You could notch those mounts and put them on top of the axle....
Theres enough room left an inch on the frame side. The bag whould sit even with the top of the axle tube. I do not understand what you said about notching the mounts and putting them on top?
Umm..I'm much better at talking then typing..lol..Like if you were to cut off the half circle axle mount and notched the bottom so you could weld them to the top instead..would gice more room around it..plus the weld on the pumkin side wouldn't have to be near as strong since it's pushing straight down, not out front trying to twist..
Roger, I would not recommend welding on cast iron particularly in the application that you have where significant loads will be on the weld. As discussed above, cast iron welding is very sensitive to preheat and post weld cooldown. I have had cast iron welded (did not do it myself and there is little that I won't tackle). Done properly cast iron rod is used to weld cast iron. The people that do it for a business will acturally weld in an oven with the whole piece very hot and then control the very gradual cooldown of the entire piece in the oven. All of this is done to control cracking and is the reason that it is expensive to have done. If it was easy lots of us would do it. It looks like you are looking at a dissimilar weld to boot, i.e. mild steel to cast iron. I really do not think that you want to go there. I only know enough about welding cast iron to avoid it or go to someone who does it in the oven as I discussed.
I believe tha rear end housing and axle tubes are cast steel not cast iron. All the stock Chevy and Ford rear ends we use for drag racing are cast steel and you can weld on them. I don't think a cast iron housing was used for rear ends. I could be wrong but check it out.
I believe tha rear end housing and axle tubes are cast steel not cast iron. All the stock Chevy and Ford rear ends we use for drag racing are cast steel and you can weld on them. I don't think a cast iron housing was used for rear ends. I could be wrong but check it out.
Ditto. I think so, too. As the O.P. mentioned, the tubes were plug welded into them from the factory and I see guys weld new tubes in all the time when modifying them. They usually weld the tubes to the housing all the way around rather than just plug weld them and I'm positive that they aren't using cast iron welding techniques. Try this: pick an inconspicuous area on one of the housing webs. Chuck an 1/8th inch drill bit up and drill a shallow hole while observing the drilling waste. If the metal comes out of the hole as a powder, then it's cast iron. If it comes out in chips or shavings, then it's cast steel and can be welded without much trouble.
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Let's agree to respect each others views, no matter how wrong yours may be.
I'm really curious why y'all put the air springs to the inside of the frame and the 4 bars on the outside? My sensibility and suspension experience says it should be the other way around. All the leverage arm produced by the pavement contact patch distance from the bag centerline and the narrow space between the bags will produce more of a twisting rolling motion than an up and down motion resulting in the truck rocking like a rowboat in a storm. I would have mounted the top mount at the top of the frame kickup on the outside of the frame and the lower mount to the top of the axle, and mount the 4 bar at the inside of the frame. That would produce a lot less twisting force on both the bags and the bars. But that's just me.
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Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
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click to check out the truck
BRACKETS.....
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...I hope this helps...
