Was curious about how to pull out the front bolts. As soon as I do my u/g, I'll post comments. Unfortunately, I don't have any buddies to help on this one. Only daughters with a lot of homework.
In the link that Stewart gave in post #2. It talks of the front spring bolt removal. With the bumper off you will see which bracket that you need to remove to allow bolt to come out. One on each side. Instead of pounding them out, I put a wrench on them and turned them out. You will also want to buy a 24 and 21 mm deep sockets for this if you don't already own them. I also found that it was not necessary to take off the blocker beam once the front bumper was off to get the springs out and new in. Daughters can help turn wrenches!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SurpriseF350Sport
Wow thanks for all the info. I have a friend willing to help. I have the V code springs I will install those first and see how it looks. If I go ahead and do the rear will I need to lower the driveshaft bearing and can I use the stock rear spring blocks? I plan to do this saturday and will take before and after measurements and pics.
How many of you re use the u bolts? where can I find all the torque values?
Like others have said, and I have also gone new u bolts. With the use of the tapered 4" block in the back there was no need to lower drive shaft bearing. Others have found that going to the 4" flat block gave them driveline problems.
__________________
2002 Excursion, 4x4, V-10, some mods, and many more to dream about!
Yeah, You do not have to remove the blocker beam Just for a spring swap. I did, but only because the model of front hitch I installed was for earlier model Excursions with different front springhangers and different blockerbeam. During the spring swap, I retrofitted new earlier model parts onto my 2005 so I could use the lower hitch.
If you look at my pics, you will see that it is a below the bumper hitch, not like the ones that are sold now. Curt discontinued the model.
In the link that Stewart gave in post #2. It talks of the front spring bolt removal. With the bumper off you will see which bracket that you need to remove to allow bolt to come out. One on each side. Instead of pounding them out, I put a wrench on them and turned them out. You will also want to buy a 24 and 21 mm deep sockets for this if you don't already own them. I also found that it was not necessary to take off the blocker beam once the front bumper was off to get the springs out and new in. Daughters can help turn wrenches!
Like others have said, and I have also gone new u bolts. With the use of the tapered 4" block in the back there was no need to lower drive shaft bearing. Others have found that going to the 4" flat block gave them driveline problems.
In regards to the 4" blocks can I use the stock blocks?
In regards to the 4" blocks can I use the stock blocks?
I highly recommend using the 3.5" tapered blocks.
I've read posts where a person used the 4" square blocks, as well as posts where someone decided to keep using the stock blocks. Both people had driveline vibrations that disappeard (were eliminated) when they took those aforementioned blocks out, replacing them with the 3.5" tapered blocks.
Your results may vary.
Back when I did my swap, all the people doing the swap used the 3.5" tapered blocks to keep from having to shim the pinion angle.
If you choose to use the 3.5" tapered blocks, here are the part numbers:
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA
Stewart
__________________ The Brotherhood of FTE <~click the link 1999 F150 Lightning: WMS built block, 6lb lower, Monsterbox, Truetrac, CF driveshaft 2002 PSD F250 SC 4x2: 38R, AC codes, MBRP 4", AFE, JWVB, Riffraff HPX, CCV, and boots, ITP OBA, Live Tuned by Jody 2000 PSD Excursion 4x4: John Wood 4R100, F5, MBRP 4", AFE, BDP 1.0, ITP OBA and Pre-Pump mod, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway
ANy Arizona FTE members feel free to stop by for free beer!
Thanks for the helpful post guys. tomorrow I will get this done. I will do the front and see how it looks. I have an able helper and hopefully all goes smooth. (if any FTE Arizona members that have done this want to help there is free beer in it for you!
Yeah, You do not have to remove the blocker beam Just for a spring swap. I did, but only because the model of front hitch I installed was for earlier model Excursions with different front springhangers and different blockerbeam. During the spring swap, I retrofitted new earlier model parts onto my 2005 so I could use the lower hitch.
Ok - So you only had to switch out your front spring hangers because of the type of front hitch you installed. Other wise, if I install V code springs on my 2005, i am able to use the stock spring hangers. Is this a correct statement?
Last edited by tacoma; 11-07-2009 at 01:46 AM.
Reason: spelling
Ok - So you only had to switch out your front spring hangers because of the type of front hitch you installed. Other wise, if I install V code springs on my 2005, i am able to use the stock spring hangers. Is this a correct statement?
Correct.
The springs are completely interchangeable without any other additions or modifications. Pop the old ones out, bolt the new ones in.
Stewart
__________________ The Brotherhood of FTE <~click the link 1999 F150 Lightning: WMS built block, 6lb lower, Monsterbox, Truetrac, CF driveshaft 2002 PSD F250 SC 4x2: 38R, AC codes, MBRP 4", AFE, JWVB, Riffraff HPX, CCV, and boots, ITP OBA, Live Tuned by Jody 2000 PSD Excursion 4x4: John Wood 4R100, F5, MBRP 4", AFE, BDP 1.0, ITP OBA and Pre-Pump mod, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway
I just took a 25 mile ride after installing V code springs on the front of the Excursion with rancho shocks and what a night and day difference. I like it a lot, worth the 7 hours is took to do the job. I don't know If I'll get around to putting the rears on soon. The truck sits level now.
My rear spring were changed. I used B codes from a 2004 F250. However, I did not wish to use blocks, so I modified the B's by taking a leaf out of the old springs and installing it into the B code springpack. I also cut the tortion plate off to use as a 3.4" spacer. That gave me about 2.75" hight increase on the rear. The ride is stiffer than if I had used B codes with blocks. I am thinking that I may change out the rear Bilsteins to Monroes or Rancho's to soften the ride a bit. Haven't done it in 3 years, so you can tell it is not so stiff as to give a whiplash.
The only other advantage is I did not have to worry about taper on a block.
I have P springs they are the ones that came with the V springs of a 2004 f250 do you know if they are stiffer or weaker than the B springs? I couldnt find any specs on them here. I don't have the time or the place to do the intricate procedure you did with yours. I am wondering if you or anyone else knows if I just slipped those p springs in using the stock block, or using the 2004 f250 block (I think is is thinner than the Ex's) how much ride hieght will increase? Stiffness? I don't know if the P springs are stiffer than the Ex's, the ex has so much more weight on it all the time I would have thought they would have stiffened them up.
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Also the rear hitch carrier is GREAT! I got one a year ago and it is one of the best add ons you can pick up.
