Today I installed an injector seal kit on my truck that was running like poop when cold but would run great after it warmed up. Here's the kicker, after I installed it, guess what, IT WON'T START! I've even tried starting fluid, it would run for a second then dies. I dont know if I did something wrong, or am I missing something. I'm desperate because this is my only vehicle, it's a 93 7.3 idi with a banks turbo, thanks in advance!
Sounds like your air bound. loosen the injector lines and crank it til just fuel is squirting out. Then tighten down the lines and it should start right up.
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87 CCD, 6.9 Banks Sidewinder turbo & ARP studs, fresh pump & injectors, str8 Pipe out the side, worked C-6, 4.56R&P & Laycock/GearVendors Overdrive
I'll try that as soon as I recharge my batts because I manage to run them down, also it would sputter, every so many cranks. I'm at a loss. I feel like I should have just left it alone, because it was running. By the way, thanks for the quick reply
If it ran before it will run again. Don't get discouraged. Also if your batts were real low it may not of been opening the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump. Charge them up and crack the lines loose as I described. Should light off once the air is out.
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87 CCD, 6.9 Banks Sidewinder turbo & ARP studs, fresh pump & injectors, str8 Pipe out the side, worked C-6, 4.56R&P & Laycock/GearVendors Overdrive
when you take off injectors,and the fuel flows back.how far back does it go?
i mean,is there a valve in the fuel filter,to keep it from draining all the way back to the tank?
if there's not,he's gunna want to be sure his fuel filter is full first,otherwise that's a load of cranking to get that filled.
ahhh,the electric fuel pump conversion.i can see this is so important lol.
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1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
when you take off injectors,and the fuel flows back.how far back does it go?
i mean,is there a valve in the fuel filter,to keep it from draining all the way back to the tank?
if there's not,he's gunna want to be sure his fuel filter is full first,otherwise that's a load of cranking to get that filled.
ahhh,the electric fuel pump conversion.i can see this is so important lol.
I've had injector lines off and the filter never drained back on me. But it wouldn't hurt to verify that it is full.
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87 CCD, 6.9 Banks Sidewinder turbo & ARP studs, fresh pump & injectors, str8 Pipe out the side, worked C-6, 4.56R&P & Laycock/GearVendors Overdrive
oh good.
shouldn't be to hard from there then/especially with new lines that wont be leaking anymore.
charged up batteries and she's gunna start right up after following post#2 instructions.
hopefully this fixes your cold running problem.
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1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
I failed to mention that one of my injectors managed to come apart, amazingly I was able to put it back together. I'm thinking though one dead cylinder shouldn't keep it from running should it? It should miss, but start if my reassembly didn't work, right?
Got the ole' mule runnin again, I'm going to go get another injector, but I have a problem. Does anyone know how I can get the other half of the broken injector out? I cant seem to get it, all itdoes is spin around in there.
Got the old one out, new one in, now she runs like a new truck again. Now the last of my problems is hopefully an answer away. My glow plug controller has died, my question is how would I wire a toggle switch to the relay to heat the glow plugs. Thank you guys for helping me get my truck running again, I'll figure out a way to repay all of you for your help.
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