Does tranny filter need to be changed with tranny Flush?
Here's the reason why I am asking.
A friend of mine works for a big construction company. In the winter they have him working in the shop doing routine maintenance to the equipment. His company has a machine that flushes the tranny fluid. He told me he could take my X in to work this week and flush the fluid. I asked him if he would be able to change the filter also. He told me his boss told him there is no need to change the filter on a flush, that the flush cleans the filter/screen. I told him I had not heard that before. What do you guys think?
Also how many quarts of fluid does the V10 take?
What synthetic are most of you running? I was planning on mobile 1, but thought I read in a thread that it did not meet Ford specs.
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2003 XLT 4x4, V10 4.30
front and rear factory sway bar
You should change the filter - I don't think the filter is going to clear itself unless the fluid is pumped backwards... then where does any debris go? It's a fairly cheap part and only takes a few minutes to drain the pain, remove and replace the filter.
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2003 Excursion EB 4x4 V10, MT ATZ 285/75-16, Hawk LTS pads front & rear with new rotors
2000 Explorer XLT 4x4 - 30k miles
1974 Bronco 4x4 - 302, 3spd, 3.54 LSD front and rear - Restored beach toy www.coastalfastlube.com
The filter is a fiberous type material. Flushing can not remove the contamination. By not changing the filter, you risk lower flows and future damage. My first few filter changes were showing dirty colored filters, and each change the filter was less dirty once I switched over to Mercon V fluid. Last change the filter still looked new.
Not worth the damage risk for the low cost of filter replacement and it is easy on the 4R100!
Just drain the pan in a bucket. Measure the fluid drained for how much to replace. I think it was like 6 or 7 qts. Remove the bolts, drop the pan and wipe down the reusable gasket, clean out pan, pull down filter and install new filter. Lube the new seal with fluid before insertion and re-install the pan and use a torque wrench to specs so you don't damage the pan flange and gasket!
I have seen machines that do NOT require a filter change, something about a reverse heated flow pushing contaminants from the filter and than operates with a vacuum.
But being if we were talking about my baby, I would do the filter change and new fluid.
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Ryan
05 Limited 6.0 Excursion
Don't you just love the smell of diesel in the morning......
It looks like it will not work to have my buddy do the flush. I called a local garage and they will pump my fluid through for $50. They also told me they offer a flush kit that provides an additive that conditions the seals for an extra $32. Anyone know anything about this additive and if it is worth the $32.
My vehicle has 78,000 miles on it. I bought in March. I do not know if the fluid has been changed before.
Thanks
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2003 XLT 4x4, V10 4.30
front and rear factory sway bar
It looks like it will not work to have my buddy do the flush. I called a local garage and they will pump my fluid through for $50. They also told me they offer a flush kit that provides an additive that conditions the seals for an extra $32. Anyone know anything about this additive and if it is worth the $32.
My vehicle has 78,000 miles on it. I bought in March. I do not know if the fluid has been changed before.
Thanks
I have heard of those additives. I generally put additives into the "Snake Oil" bin unless they can prove that it works. Have you seen any proof by an independent lab with certified scientific methods?
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01 Excursion. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F5 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, Van Turbo and BDP Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear. 203* thermostat and billet housing
I've had the same experience as RobertH. We bought our Ex with 28K on the clock. The first time I changed the fluid it looked and smelled fine, but there was a fair amount of fine debris on the pan magnet and in the filter. Then next time I did it, maybe 30K later, there was much less debris. I always change my trans and oil filters when I change the fluid, the cost is minimal for my peace of mind.
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1995 F350 XLT CC 4WD PSD 5 Speed
Seems the Mercon V definately is an improvement. By the filter being so clean the last time, it was bright pink and not grey so that means it is still very clean. The new Filter material is white, so with the fluid it takes on the color of the pink fluid. I think initially, within the first 30K, the breakin particles are collected in the filter and magnet. However, the second change can't get all the debris, so the second change gets the rest. Evidenced by the 3rd change where the pan, magnet and filter were all clean. I really believe the Mercon V is an improvement and understand it is semi synthetic. It seems to shift smoother also. Have heard others that switched realize smoother shifting and overall improvement.
Have another 25K to go before the next change. I expect it will be clean again. Simple change process including the filter so not any excuse to overlook this very important step! Clean filter means improved fluid flow and longer life!
That filter is supposed to be doing life in the confines of the pan.....About 17 quarts total.......don't go for the snake oil additive, that stuff has been around since the 49 olds Hydramatic. It's just a solvent that will soften your seals over a period of time. It could be hazardous to it's health but OK in in pinch if it is on the way out. You can buy the same snake oil at the auto store for $3 and dump it in............ripoff!
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
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