I have a 1951 merc pickup that I have been contemplating lowering a bit. It's all original with the 16 inch rims. Can I retain the 16 inch rims or do I have to go to a different tire? Will the tire rub at all? Whats the best way to do drop anywhere from 2 to 4 inches front and rear? I want to lower it a bit, but still keep the truck practical enough that I can still put something in the back if I have to.
You can lower the front with a dropped axle about as quickly and inexpensively as anything, especially if your plan is to retain the stock-type suspension. There's plenty of options if you are willing to do some major modifications. The back is a little harder, since the axle is under the spring. Simply moving the axle above the spring puts it too close to the frame to have any meaningful suspension travel. You'll need to do something different with the springs. How useful it will be afterward will depend on what you change, and what kind of work you plan to do with the truck.
Question: Is you 51 and M1 or an M2 (or the Canadian equivelant) Your M2 will have front fender openings that are 2 1/2 inches larger. So interferene might be avoided if it is an M2.
The drop axel will work, there are drop spindles as well. I am having new springs installed on my 51F1 today and they are dropping it a dash by reversing the spring eyes. Just something to consider if you need new or re springs later on down the road.
Or, a Chevy guy told me once you can lower the truck 2 inches by letting the air out of the front tires.
Question: Is you 51 and M1 or an M2 (or the Canadian equivelant) Your M2 will have front fender openings that are 2 1/2 inches larger. So interferene might be avoided if it is an M2.
The drop axel will work, there are drop spindles as well. I am having new springs installed on my 51F1 today and they are dropping it a dash by reversing the spring eyes. Just something to consider if you need new or re springs later on down the road.
Or, a Chevy guy told me once you can lower the truck 2 inches by letting the air out of the front tires.
It's an M1. So I won't have to worry about the tires rubbing at all? I want to use a 16 inch rim like the original, but use radials, so they'll be a little wider than the old bias ones were. Will this be a problem?
You can lower the front with a dropped axle about as quickly and inexpensively as anything, especially if your plan is to retain the stock-type suspension. There's plenty of options if you are willing to do some major modifications. The back is a little harder, since the axle is under the spring. Simply moving the axle above the spring puts it too close to the frame to have any meaningful suspension travel. You'll need to do something different with the springs. How useful it will be afterward will depend on what you change, and what kind of work you plan to do with the truck.
Great, I do want to keep the stock type suspension. with is nice and simple. I won't be doing any heavy work with the truck but I'll pick up supplies from the hardware store, or occasionally take a load to the dump in it. I suppose I could notch the frame and put the rear axle above the springs but I was hoping to not have to cut the frame if i could get away with it.
That is an excellent thread. I read the rear supension drop with interest. The one thing that I did not do or contemplate was raising the rear spring front mount higher (partially above the frame rail) by fabricating the angle iron bracket such that the upper mounting bolts are above the top of the frame rail. Has anyone done this and run the truck for a while with it? With a load in the bed going over a bump will put a lot of load on that bracket including a bending load that the frame rail normally resists by not twisting at the location of the mount. I will have to measure for clearance that I have on my 49 to the bottom of the bed. I did not think that I had as much space available to use (bottom of bed to top of frame rail at the location of the bracket. Any thoughts?
for sure i would be putting some gussets on that angle bracket.the thing i dont get is he still moved the axle closer to the frame,maybe not as much as moving the axle to on top of the springs,but i think that would be easier to do.
i will be putting a 9" in my truck,but im not sure what to do about the springs.i what to lower it,but my spring pack is giant,i think if i take out 6 to 9 springs it will bring it down enough.
any ideas on this?either way i do it its going to get pretty close to the frame with the axle.how can i do it without a "c" notch?
That is an excellent thread. I read the rear supension drop with interest. The one thing that I did not do or contemplate was raising the rear spring front mount higher (partially above the frame rail) by fabricating the angle iron bracket such that the upper mounting bolts are above the top of the frame rail. Has anyone done this and run the truck for a while with it? With a load in the bed going over a bump will put a lot of load on that bracket including a bending load that the frame rail normally resists by not twisting at the location of the mount. I will have to measure for clearance that I have on my 49 to the bottom of the bed. I did not think that I had as much space available to use (bottom of bed to top of frame rail at the location of the bracket. Any thoughts?
I talked to the author of the thread about a month ago and ask what he would change now that he's had 8 month to drive it. This is what he said;
Yes I would change some things. First, like I wrote in the article-
do not buy the Monoleaf springs. They were very expensive and the ride
will always be poor with a straight axle. Just buy the dropped axle to
get the lower height and then just soften it a bit buy taken out a
couple leafs...2-3. Same result, less $$$.
Second, disc brakes were probably not necessary. They are nice, but
may be too good. I think the best bang for the buck is to ad a booster
like I did with the drums. This would be a great improvement and
probably be more than enough.
Third, consider a 12Volt conversion immediately. The only problem I
ever have with the truck is the batteries holding/keeping a charge. 12
V will start better too.
The best improvement for drivability was certainly the T5 transmission
swap- I would do that for sure. IT changed the truck. It was also the
hardest thing to do also, but worth it.
Everything else the same.
HD74, Thanks for posting your reply above. Did you have any discussion specific to the raised rear spring mount that he fabricated and how it has performed?
I talked to the author of the thread about a month ago and ask what he would change now that he's had 8 month to drive it. This is what he said;
Yes I would change some things. First, like I wrote in the article-
do not buy the Monoleaf springs. They were very expensive and the ride
will always be poor with a straight axle. Just buy the dropped axle to
get the lower height and then just soften it a bit buy taken out a
couple leafs...2-3. Same result, less $$$.
Second, disc brakes were probably not necessary. They are nice, but
may be too good. I think the best bang for the buck is to ad a booster
like I did with the drums. This would be a great improvement and
probably be more than enough.
Third, consider a 12Volt conversion immediately. The only problem I
ever have with the truck is the batteries holding/keeping a charge. 12
V will start better too.
The best improvement for drivability was certainly the T5 transmission
swap- I would do that for sure. IT changed the truck. It was also the
hardest thing to do also, but worth it.
Everything else the same.
Great article, and thanks for posting his follow-up!
HD74, Thanks for posting your reply above. Did you have any discussion specific to the raised rear spring mount that he fabricated and how it has performed?
wow i counted 18 springs, does it even give a lil. I would think that truck would shake itself apart. My truck is a 46 and it had 10 and i removed 6 so now i got 4 on each side and that seems like it should ride nice and cooshy. Mine went down about 2.5 to 3 inches just by taking out that many.
I raised the rear spring hangers both front and rear on 2 51-52's now and used 1/4" x 1 1/4" strap on the front and 1/4" x 2" on the rear to bolt the top bolts to and put alittle flat angled gusset in the rear and have had no trouble at all. I used one for a shop truck for 1200 miles before somebody wanted it worse than me. Lowered it 2 1/4-1/2" then took some leafs out and got to 4" real easy and cheap. Will try to get some pictures up soon.
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