Spoke with the shop today - well, they finally put a "breakout box" on the PCM.
This is a trouble shooting box (tool) that connects between the PCM box and the PCM connector. With this one can access virtually all the various connections to determine if there are any shorts, opens, bad relays, etc. in order to isolate the problem.
They are suspecting a short somewhere. Hopefully tomorrow they will be successful.
If one reviews the manual for each of the DTC's set, they all say "If all those particular codes are present, then go to Pin Point FJ6 to start trouble shooting." Sort of thought that is where they should have started initially - I'm just a "Shade Tree" guy and they are the "Professionals".
The shop claims the fuel pressure is 50+ psig, so the fuel pump should be good. I do not think they were able to perform the injector buzz test.
Intermittent short/open type electrical issues are difficult to resolve, but when it is present all the time finding the culprit should be fairly straight forward - easy for me to say.
Will continue this again tomorrow and/or until the fix is resolved.
I would very politely explain to them that you have access to the real shop manual and you're really not interested in paying them by the hour to just poke around and ignore what the manual is telling them to do unless they have darn good reason for the change.
Remember the professional mechanic is used to dealing with all different makes and models. You're probably more familiar with the 7.3 than he is. This has got to be frustrating for you since you knew 2 days ago which wire to check for a short based on the codes. Hopefully tomorrow they check the wire and we can move on from there.
Final Update!
I got a call for an emergency trip out of town mid-afternoon last Wednesday.
Was going to use a company pool car, so I called the diesel shop for the status of my truck repair.
Low-n-behold it was repaired!
We had some discussion about their time on the repair (16 hours), butt they offered to split it with me and I would pay for 8 hours - I agreed.
No direct repair parts involved.
Turns out they found a power plug in the back of my fuse panel had somehow come out of its socket enough to loose contact - I guess that was my "jerky motion" I noticed several time each way to work and home for approx. two weeks.
They had a breakout box on it and the mechanic was under the dash and ran his hand on back of the fuse panel and jiggled that plug and wala, it started.
I would have thought the trouble shooting would have identified a lack of power source in a critical circuit. Oh well.
I picked up the truck in a hurry to head out of town and didn't pay any attention to my bill since "I thought it was all labor and taxes" - WRONG.
I did not look the invoice over until I arrived at the hotel Thursday a.m.
They had replace my CKP sensor plug on the harness and my AIS air breather filter indicator - total parts there was approx. $27.
I had told them to let me know of any parts required before replacing them!
Money is not the issue - it is attention to details!
I found a secondary wiring harness on the driver's fender well that had not been put back into its original position with three plastic push pins - nothing major, but again, the lack of attention to details.
I called the guys up and explained the situation and my concern for their lack of detail and suggested in the future the shop foreman do a visual inspection of the mechanic's work before moving the truck to the front for pickup.
It just goes to show that you must stay on top of them and not ASSUME anything.
I am very happy that it was not a lot of labor costs plus parts costs and I am tickled I have my truck back.
I also appreciate all of the FTE folks' support and discussion with this issue.
As I have said many times "look for the simple stuff first".
By the way, I had pulled out my Super Gold chip prior to carrying the truck to the shop - had to drive on the trip without the chip.
Bummer, that truck was a dog without the chip - will put it back in tomorrow!
I have a 2002 F-350 with 7.3L Diesel and 237,000 miles on it. It is having the same problem as lhuds' truck. I have already changed the CPS and glow plug relay. It still wo't start. HELLLLP!!!!! Roger
I have a 2002 F-350 with 7.3L Diesel and 237,000 miles on it. It is having the same problem as lhuds' truck. I have already changed the CPS and glow plug relay. It still wo't start. HELLLLP!!!!! Roger
You might want to describe you problem a little better. Does it crank over? Are you getting a wait to start light?
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2000 7.3 powerstroke. Bull dog tuner. Air raid cold air intake. AIH delete. Oil crossover. 6.0 tranny cooler. In tank mods. Wicked Wheel. Walker 21470 muffler.
Thanks for the quick reply! Cranks great, wait to start light works fine, battery at 13.6 volts, oil was 1 qt low (that has been taken car of), coolant level good. My hands are in the air!
I would see if you are getting fuel. You can put a hose on the drain tube then turn on the key and you should get a pressurized flow of fuel when the drain valve is opened. Probably be better if you could check the fuel pressure. Other than that it is a guessing game. Probably need to get it scanned for codes.
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2000 7.3 powerstroke. Bull dog tuner. Air raid cold air intake. AIH delete. Oil crossover. 6.0 tranny cooler. In tank mods. Wicked Wheel. Walker 21470 muffler.
Fuel presure is good and only code that shows up is P0340. I hace already changed the CPS and the code returned while trying to start. Took that back and got another one and the same code shows up again. Spoke with a diesel mechanic at Fort Worth dealership and he said that after so many cranks without starting that the CPS code always shows. Trial and error! It is frustrating.
Fuel presure is good and only code that shows up is P0340. I hace already changed the CPS and the code returned while trying to start. Took that back and got another one and the same code shows up again. Spoke with a diesel mechanic at Fort Worth dealership and he said that after so many cranks without starting that the CPS code always shows. Trial and error! It is frustrating.
If the PCM is seeing an RPM signal, I don't see how it would set a CPS code. Are you using Ford CPS or one from the parts stores? Might be time to check the pins in the CPS connector to make sure they're not burnt or loose. Also check to make sure the little rubber gasket in the connector didn't fall out.
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