On a few really stuck things, I have had luck with heating it with a propane torch, dousing it with PB Blaster, heating it again and attempting removal.

Sometimes it takes a few heat-douse cycles, and sometimes I have to let it sit a day or so, but I've gotten some real tough stuck stuff apart with that method.

My problem usually comes with fasteners that are so rusted, there's nothing you CAN do but cut them!

 

I usually use a dammit tool to remove stubborn nuts or bolts.

 

has any one else tried "howes super penetrant" is works wonders and as a bonus smells like cinnamon..It can be hard to find and a little expensive($7-8 a can) but it is the best over the counter thing I have found.

 

I've tried all of the above except for the ATF-Acetone and have found Kroil to be hands down the best. Minnesota winters and salt are not easy on things and Kroil is worth its weight in gold.

 

I agree, Kroil is absolutely the best penetrating oil I've ever used.

 

Havent posted much but wanted to ask if anyone had a actual link or copy to the test? I find it odd that the website for the mag does not list it in the archieves as a article in that month. Several oddities come to mind. On some boards it is listed as the April/May issue, which is not how the mag is published but either March April or May June. It's 09 and a article from 07 is suddenly making the rounds on all the car internet forums? with hardly any mention back in 07? That article would have been posted within days on every car site with that type of test. Lends me to believe it is a internet legend and no article actually exists.

 

I have not been able to find the actual source of the article. A google search turns up many references to it but not the article itself.

Closest I came was... The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop blah blah

So supposedly if you can find archived copies of that magazine, it should be there.

Jim Henderson

 

i wish people would test oven cleaner. I started using it to clean grease a while back.. i tried using some to spray down a rusted bolt, sure enough it cleaned a lot of the rust away and the bolt came out.
Not a lubricator, but spraying some helps other stuff penetrate sooo much better and it will eat through rust, down around the threads, etc.

just try it, then tell me if I'm nuts.. on steel/iron, dont try it on aluminum

 

I used the ATF Acetone home brew on my fromnt rotors. I have a 2003 Expy I bought new and live in Wisconsin with it's lovely winters. I sprayed the brew on the hub and around the studs and let it soak for a week. I used the bolts through the caliper bracket hole trick and the rotors popped right off with no sledge required. Upon removal, there was a thin layer of oil on the hub where the rotor interface was. I am a believer in this stuff, at least for large surface areas. The one thing I found is you have to shake the solution before every use as it quickly seperates. I have used PB a lot but never saw it coat an area like the home brew did.

 

Just don't use it in a Shop where OSHA can come around. HVAC company I was working at, some of the guys had a "Home Brew," got caught, company disavowed any knowledge of the stuff. The guys took the fines.

 

Hmmmm...

Since I am about to embark on removing the rusted 18-year-old manifold bolts on my truck I may have to try a combination of the "oven cleaner" and the "atf/acetone" tricks.

I was gonna try the "candle" trick, but frankly these sound easier...

-cmc-

 

Kroil (Kano Kroil and Aero Kroil) are fantastic for loosing stubborn nuts and bolts.

The absolute best bore solvent is Kroil!
It gets under copper/lead fouling and loosens it to the point where it'll push right out of the bore!


(Midway USA had it on sale, not too long ago!)

 

OK so how would a guy get this acetone/ATF mixture in a spray can and pressurized?

 

Try this?
Amazon.com: Refillable Aerosol Spray Can: Automotive

Pop

 

Why would you have to pressurize it?

Why not just use a regular spray bottle?