The Zerostart units use percolation to circulate the fluid. There’s a marble that acts as a one way valve to keep the fluid moving in the right direction. Kim Hotstart uses a similar technique except they use a flapper valve. It should work fine as long as you are reasonable I your expectations.
Recently, when I inquired locally about a Hotstart, I was told those were recalled because they were starting fires in vehicles. Now, I don't know if there's a bit of fact to it, but the local parts store was not selling them anymore. May be something to look into. I never gave it a second thought until right now.
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1987 F-250 4x4, 6.9 ATS turbo, 4 spd
1993 Lincoln Mk VIII, coil spring conversion, 4.6l of fun
Those are a little big (and pricy) for what I need, Dave. But that is the basic idea.
I heard that AC switches can be fused in the on position if they are used with DC. Some on on another forum warned me about that and advised me to run a 12V relay to the thermostat and run the higher DC voltage from the relay to the heater element. More complicated, but safer in theory. I'm hoping I won't have to do that but not sure at this point.
Do you know what sort of flow rates could be expected from the heater without having to add an auxiliary pump? I figure I need at least 2 LPM and will only go through a heater core. The thermostat would also be cycling fairly often because the total fluid amount being heated won't be much. Just the core and pipes, with the heater being as close to the core as possible.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
A relay can control the heater, but the internal switch is the problem. Actually, I don't think the AC/DC current is relevent. The amount is. Asfar as the flow rate is concerne3d, the power input is the determinig factor. 1 KW = 3415 BTU. 1BTU = 1 pound of water raised 1 degree F. The system functions by boiling water, so the output temperature will be 212 F. Assuming you will be operating with 70 F. 142F differemce. 3415 BTU/142 F =24 Pounds per hour ~ 2.88GPH or 0.048 GPM. A ceramic heater in about the same power range would be cheaper to buy and adapt a DC fan to operate it. Just a suggestion,
My idea was to feed 12V to the internal switch, then use that to energize the relay for the actual heating element. There will be easy access to both voltage ranges.
I thought about using a ceramic heater, but those don't work as well from what I'm told. Ceramic heaters are also a bit more of a fire hazard since the surface temperature of the element is higher than on a hot water tank.
I'm tempted to try it and add a pump if needed later on.
Still a ways off before I need to deal with this. I was mainly wondering if a tank type engine heater can run ~120 DC volts.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
I bought one of those tank type heaters, never used it yet ,one end splices heater hose the other end in the block drain plug where ever thats supposed to be? I had years ago a type that spliced in the heater line which worked good.
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