Sounds like it needs a thorough cleaning before anything else. There are different fuel circuits in the carb so while it may idle okay, the transition circuits could be sludged up with varnish and crap or the power valve could be blown. A can of carb cleaner and a new kit are fairly cheap and that is an easy carb to work on. To get the kit, the parts guy may ask for a carb number; this can be found on the front left side of the base or on a tag. Should look like C7TE-A or something along that format. The idle speed and fast idle screws are on the RH side and the mixture screws are under the front of the float bowl. Hope this helps...
I found that the inlet fuel line going into the pump (about 8 in) was as soft as a vacuum hose. Im guessing it broke apart inside and is clogging the flow.
Think i have to take apart the fuel pump as well or just replace the hoses?
Thanks guys... and is there really a way to tell between a 360 and 390 block?
While you are replacing that hose, might as well drain all the nasty gas you can out of the tank. It should siphon out at the fuel pump inlet line where you are taking the hose off.
But be carefull messing with the gas. I would take off the battery cables just to be safe while draining the tank.
I recently rebuilt mine in my '67 F100 (352 engine), and I found that the float level really needs to be set and checked carefully. I know carbs pretty well, and I set the float level dry on the bench very carefully, to the factory (dry) spec and technique. On the truck, it ran rich and burbled and stumbled. So I checked it wet, by the Ford manual method, and, sure enough, it was running more than 1/8" high. Readjusted it wet, to the spec, and now it's running fine.
The point is that you shouldn't trust the dry float setting if you're having a carb problem. Check it wet by the factory procedure to be sure it's right. I guess there's enough tolerance in the construction of the floats and needles that a fixed height of the top of the float doesn't mean that the fuel is at the right level. The fuel level is what's important.
Pull gas line off at the carb or fuel pump and do a volume test by cracking the motor over for about 20 seconds in to a catch gas,I can can't remember off the top of my head but you should have around a 1/2 cup+- or so if it's good. Most filters get a air bubble in them an looks like it not getting enough gas. If your carb float bowl is full and you can see gas coming out the and down in the carb throat when you move the carb linkage by hand..If no gas then mostly carb accelerator pump check valve if the carb is not leaking gas from the diagram pump cover. Some early model carbs have a ball check-valve later ones have a little red rubber type that always seem to fail after about 6-7 yrs or so NOTE Remember to remove coil wire so you don't get a spark near a open gas lines,FIRES start ez ok.. my 2 cents
1971 F250 4x4 Nv4500-5spd O/D 417cid owned since
1978..Ha who cares what you don't have any more.
Vietnam tour of duty 68-69 15 mo.
Driver of the Iron Butterfly Gun truck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5H7U71KZEJw
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