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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:33 AM
crescentwrencher crescentwrencher is offline
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just like everyone else said that mechanic is a dumba$$.

rebuild your carb, check your fuel supply, make sure your choke works the way its supposed to. after that its just fine tuning

backfire could mean many things. timing, cam and dist. or it could be lean, or somtimes it happens rich, most likely carb related
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutalBronco View Post
Money for nothing, chicks for free. I'll bet that so called mechanic has a carb to sell ya too. Anyway, a rebuild kit is not that bad. you basically replace all the gaskets, and check the calibrations as you rebuild it. Simply take your time when tearing down to investigate how the parts function and think about how it gets reassembled as you take it apart. Another helper that I've read on here is to take pictures of stuff for reference. Your particular problem screams carb rebuild to me and a double check on the calibrations and timing. For 249 bucks I would have replaced and bled your brakes, rotated your tires, changed plugs wires button and cap, and threw a timing light on it, examined your transmission fluid, let you give it a test drive, and literally give you a handful of zip-ties to throw in your glove box, before I expected any payment.
I totally agree there. Hell if my truck wasn't fixed I wouldn't pay. Yeah 249 is steep for doing what he did. What was he doing with the fuel pump? Replaced? I will bad gas will give your some serious carb headaches.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 08:50 PM
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Should I rebuild the carb and check the timing first? whats the best way to check the carb for flooding? Thank everyone for the help.
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:54 PM
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Well I already paid because he told me it was done and I paid before I drove it. I figured he got it done rite because alot of people speak highly of him, but o-well whats done is done. I should have just tried to fix the thing myself in the first place.
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Reed_50 View Post
Should I rebuild the carb and check the timing first? whats the best way to check the carb for flooding? Thank everyone for the help.
Check the timing FIRST.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2009, 04:14 PM
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Ok talked to the mechanic again today and he said the timing was 2 degrees advanced and that the carb has #57 jets in it and it was suposed to have #55's in it. He still thinks its the carb and that the timing and the jets wouldnt make it run like that. The carb was totally rebuilt. So what advice do yall have now?
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:44 PM
crescentwrencher crescentwrencher is offline
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2 degrees adv.????? WTF if your timing is really 2deg. than yes your engine will run like crap and backfire, you should be more around 12-13deg.

i would also like to know why he thinks it needs size 55 jets in it, probly read it in a manual. lol
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:41 AM
93F22A6 93F22A6 is offline
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Yeah set your timing at around 12-14. Mine is set for about a total of 32 degrees, at idle I think shes at 19ish. Still need to put a couple degrees in her though. Also just because his little book says it should take those jets doesnt mean they will work right.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reed_50 View Post
Ok talked to the mechanic again today and he said the timing was 2 degrees advanced
Stop talking to the mechanic.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 09:52 AM
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Stop talking to the mechanic.

+1, as long as you keep talking to him, it will never run right. But since you did, I would hope he meant your timing is 2 degrees advance of where it should be, and not at 2 degrees.

I know you said he was a good mechanic, and a lot of people go to him, or what ever. I know a guy that is pretty good at most things, but some areas, he is very weak at and he will never get that stuff right, and you know not to go to him for that stuff.

Just because he has a garage, or works in one does not make him master of all!

Sounds like your problems can be fixed right here if you have a few tools and the time to do it. FMC400 gave you a great tutorial on carbs, that I saved and went back to a few time times in he past. I got my 300 I6 runnig like a champ from this!! It is very well written, and made a lot of sense, with pictures to see what he was talking about!

If you dont have, round up a multi tester, timing light, and vacuum guage. These tools will serve you well for years to come. If you dont have them, I would suggest you get them. They will pay for themselves time and time again.

First order of business is check your timing and post the results back here. If you can,, pictures are a plus too!!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:25 PM
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I only talked to him because I had to pick the truck up and he was there. lol Thanks for all the info and Im pretty sure he meant 2 degrees from where it was suposed to be. Im gona do the rest of the stuff myself. I will check the timing and post it back here.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:41 PM
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FYI

I have a remanufactured 2100 2v 1.21 v Autolite with only about 200 miles on it. I am taking it off to install a 1.33v on it. Otherwise it's hot to go. I also have another that could use a rebuild but still works ok. 2 prices PM me if you want one of them. I can help you with choke set up if like also.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 02:41 PM
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Why,
__has no one mentioned the Jets?
Really, 2 sizes up?

Say fmc400 let me know if you agree
that bumping up 2 jet sizes was bad idea.

If the truck had #55's why change it from this?
We all know that this will give the engine more fuel.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 02:50 PM
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Just,
__a thought.

Is this mecanic ASE certifed?

If he is.
He's doing some really retarded crap.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 05:30 PM
crescentwrencher crescentwrencher is offline
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if i remeber correctly it had 57s and should have 55s according to dipsheisse.

even if it is 3 sizes to rich it wont make a huge difference, lean on the other hand is a different story.
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