Well, got a ticket for no brake lights on my way to work this morning. Once the sun was up, I went outside and looked under my dash to find a fuse, #13 which is a 20amp fuse burned out. It shows as being for brake lamps, speed control module etc.. I pulled a replacement fuse and proceeded to replace the burned fuse. Suddenly I smelled something burning. I look out from under the dash to see white plumes of smoke billowing from around the edges of my hood. I immediately pulled the fuse back off, smoke still billowing. Fearing the worst, I pop the hood release, run to the front of my truck and carefully unlatch my hood and let it pop up. Tons of smoke disperse, and I can see flames coming from the area of my brake cylinder booster. There is what appears an electrical harness and switch connected to the booster, and the fire was coming from that switch. The flames ceased and stopped burning/smoldering. I checked if my truck starts and it did.
Ok..so...This is what torched on my truck. Forgive the crappy photos..took them with my iPhone as soon as the engine bay cooled off.
Drove the truck in my parking lot to make sure I still had brakes etc...good except no brake lights...arggg..ok..so I got off work early and drove it to my dealer. They looked at it and said yea, that my truck had that recall and it still had not been done. It did not appear to have any other damage other than the cooked switch.
They replaced the switch, but alas..I still have zero brake lights, no cruise control, no horn and my underhood light is also zero go. All fuses, both under the dash and under the hood are now good. They won't repair whatever else is wrong now, claiming they are only responsible for the recalled item and not any damage caused by it's malfunction....makes me want to shoot someone....
So, anyone have any ideas what else can be wrong now? I checked the basics such as the fuses, the bulbs etc. I closely inspected the area after I got the truck home from Ford and there is zero damage visible anywhere around the burnt switch. There is one cluster of wires in a harness under where the switch was burning, and I checked it and the wires are perfect, with no sign of any heat damage. Ideas from anyone with more exp. in this than me?
Next time, don't make assumptions...I purchased the truck used in 2001 from our local Ford dealer, and have since moved, with zero recall letter received. My truck has been in for a minor service within the last 4 years and no one bothered to mention the recall. I am not psychic to know that they sold me a truck with a defective speed control switch.
I'm in this forum seeking guidance and advice..not the condescending tone of your first sentence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Next time, don't ignore the recall letters...
Ford has been trying to get these repaired for four years....
Recall "05S28" < plug that into the SEARCH feature for MUCH information.
What year truck is it? I bet if you press a little bit, you can get them to fix what else is wrong. Go over their heads to Ford and see what happens. You were lucky, and it only burnt some wiring. Some people have had their houses burn down because the truck was in a attached garage.
I am not keeping up with all the news on this, but I would think Ford would be liable to some extent, especially since they admit the switch is faulty.
What year truck is it? I bet if you press a little bit, you can get them to fix what else is wrong. Go over their heads to Ford and see what happens. You were lucky, and it only burnt some wiring. Some people have had their houses burn down because the truck was in a attached garage.
I am not keeping up with all the news on this, but I would think Ford would be liable to some extent, especially since they admit the switch is faulty.
Hi Dave. It's a 2000. Unless I can find the fix fairly easily/cheaply, I intend on p ushing harder. I dont think I should carry the burden of the repair just because they have issued the recall a while back. I didnt intentionally refuse to take the truck in, I simply was unaware of the recall, and in the end, they did sell a truck with a defective part. I saw photos of other burnt fords due to the switch..I know I am very lucky.
If you have a meter or testlight, probe that #13 fuse and see if it has power. If it does, then the power runs right from that fuse, down a red/lightgreen wire to the brake pedal switch. From the switch it leaves on a lightgreen wire and goes different directions, one being the high mount stoplight. Double check the high mount stoplight and see if it's working.
If that fuse #13 does not have power, then go into the fuse box under the hood. The 20 amp #13 fuse is fed by a 50 amp fuse in this box (fuse #22). Check this 50 amp fuse. I am going to assume the 50 amp fuse is getting power, because there are two fusible links that feed that fuse, but they feed all sorts of different circuits in the underhood box, and I don't think it would even run if one of the fusible links was burnt.
The #13 fuse is the bright yellow one second from the top, middle row.
Here, I have set my test multimeter to 20 VDC, grounded the neg probe and here I test the right contact of the fuse.
Heres the result on the meter
12.6 volts, which I am assuming is what it should be more or less. Now I checked the left side of the fuse
and the result is..
Though I'm not an electrical wizard, I think that power should be present on both sides of the fuse. I did check the fuse before I started this testing, and the fuse is good.
Now, I located the brake switch, disconnected it. Second from the left is the red and light green wire
I tested the lead
and the result is:
result showing is .57 volts. I have no idea what the lead is supposed to be showing right now.
Since there was no power on one side of the fuse, I went under the hood and checked the main distribution box as you instructed.
checked right side of #22 fuse
and checked left side of fuse #22
and both sides read
There is no power going to the third brake light.
What next?
Thank you very much for this troubleshooting session btw....
WellsFargoVault, welcome to the site. Contrary to your first request for help there is a ton of useful information here as Franklin2 proved in giving you some ideas to try out. Don't get discouraged and keep posting. Hope you get it fixed soon.
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04 F150 XL Reg Cab Long bed, Astro bed cap
4.6, 3.73, 4wd, Toyo Open Country A/T
WellsFargoVault, welcome to the site. Contrary to your first request for help there is a ton of useful information here as Franklin2 proved in giving you some ideas to try out. Don't get discouraged and keep posting. Hope you get it fixed soon.
Not discouraged at all. I know that there are people on the forum who can and are willing to assist, that is one of the benefits of a forum like this. I don't let comments like that first one interfere. I do thank you for your positive outlook. Thank you very much.
Though I'm not an electrical wizard, I think that power should be present on both sides of the fuse. I did check the fuse before I started this testing, and the fuse is good.
You need to go back to this spot. The fuse should have power on both sides
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