about two weeks ago i replaced my return lines, replaced an injector and the fuel filter. The past three mornings when i go out and start my truck it starts like crap...it spins good until it gets to one spot and thumps....spin...thump...spin...thump fires....blows a *****load of blue smoke and dies....then i have to crank and crank and crank and it starts again...I love this truck to death but it's never started cold real good for me...and it's getting annoying....i'm thinking that possibly the new injector i put in is leaking fuel and filling the cylinder because it feels like the batteries are weak until it pops off...it almost sounds like a bad spot on the flywheel but i've checked that....Any help is greatly appreciated!
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1991 F250 with a bignasty 7.3 IDI n E4OD, 3:55's, 285/75/16 UNIROYAL RADIALS
im thinking your starter might be getting weak and maybe it has a dead spot and not the flywheel.from what you explained that would be my first guess.my reasoning.......
if the motor isnt turning over fast enough to build compression and ignite fuel you will get the blue smoke because as your cranking your injectors are popping filling the cylinders with fuel and then when it finally does fire all that fuel comes out the exhaust that was previously in the cylinders producing the smoke.
another thing to look into is the injection pump.
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94 ford f250 7.3 turbo idi headlight mod,electric fuel pump,tinted windows all around,straight piped and 6" stack and sweet camo trim in the cab
Your cold start symptoms matches up to the classic ' leaking return lines' problem. Even though you may not see any fuel leaks, Air is being drawn into the fuel filter and the fuel is draining back to the tank. So what you get is a start and die result. Then hard cranking until the mechanical pump gets the filter full and the air purged. If you bypass the mechanical, and install an electric pump, it helps some. instead of cranking, you just wait a few minutes while the pump runs and pushes the air out.
I'm getting ready put new return lines and o-rings on mine this weekend. I already have the electric pump!. ( a new fuel filter full of ATF or Diesel Kleen is a good way to make sure none of the linkages in the IP will stick this winter too.
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Alright, Sorry i didn't get back on sooner, been working all day. Thanks for all the replies too.. I did replace the starter about 4 months ago and also replaced the injector return lines, orings and the filter about 2-3 weeks ago... This is mind boggling. I am going to go back and check all the elbows, lines and rings and make sure it all sealed correctly and check out that starter.. That starter was a bear to get off.. Thanks for the help...i will let you all know if i find anything.
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1991 F250 with a bignasty 7.3 IDI n E4OD, 3:55's, 285/75/16 UNIROYAL RADIALS
Check the passenger side near the battery clamp, you are looking for brittle or burnt looking insulation.
If you have that, there is corrosion inside the clamp and the conductors are not making a good connection.
3 separate wires join in that clamp, cross over cable from the drivers side, cable down to the starter and the main power wire that the charge from the alternator and all cab power goes through.
Your symptoms sound like one of the tee's are not seated correctly.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
I am gonna run out while i have a bit of light left right now and check...I feel pretty dumb now...i didn't think about that but it makes sense with my symptoms..I'll let you know in a bit..
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1991 F250 with a bignasty 7.3 IDI n E4OD, 3:55's, 285/75/16 UNIROYAL RADIALS
Ok, went out and checked everything and wouldn't you know it, the sob possitive cable on the starter was loose...so what do i do but reach up and try to finger tighten it and molded my thumb and forefinger in the shape of the nut....THATS HOT! Anyway, i'll tighten it down tomorrow morning when i get a real LOCKING NUT to put on it..i tightened it a week after i installed the new starter and it worked itself loose again..THANKS DAVE!!!
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1991 F250 with a bignasty 7.3 IDI n E4OD, 3:55's, 285/75/16 UNIROYAL RADIALS
at least your having better luck, I too had severe leaks around my injectors. Today I bought an injector seal kit, installed it, now I can't get my truck to crank at all. I have even tried starting fluid (glow plugs are on a toggle switch, so no predetonation probs) it'll run for a few seconds and die. I hope someone can help as this is my ONLY mode of trans, and i have to work monday. Mine is a 93 7.3 idi with a banks sidewinder.
If you disturb the return lines, like replace one return tee but not the one next to it, the one next to it will be leaking now.
When you replace retun lines and O rings, do them all.
Otherwise you will be chasing leaks forever.
Whe you arre done, leave a couple injection lines loose, crank the engine over till you get fuel, then tighten the line.
Caution, 20 seconds max cranking time, then let the starter cool for at least 2 minutes before cranking again.
The starter will overheat and die a premature death if you crank longer without the cool down period.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
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