While the key is on and electric fuel pump going, it runs continuously, albeit slowly. Walbro 7 psi 50 gph 'click'ing every 2-3 seconds. I noticed in another thread someone mentioned leaving an electric pump running for a while to force bleed the injector lines. Anyone else verify this "slow bleed" method? how long does it take?
Thanks,
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1989 7.3L E-350 based Wheelchair Transit bus converted to Recreational Vehicle.
it bleeds the return lines when i get alot of air in the system i just let the pump run while the GPs are on and then start it and then it will run a minute and stall only sometimes then just a few more seconds maybe 10 on the pump and it starts and runs fine.
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91 F-250 7.3 N/A ZF-5 2wd, 4" ram air, Isspro gauges, IP turned up, 265/75/16 A/Ts, 15% tint, carter p4594 ele pump, 55w back up lights, class V hitch, 4" exhaust w/14" magnaflow diesel muffler, steering stabilizer (DD/hauler)
88 F-250 460 c6 4x4 Lifted on 36" TSL super swampers, stacks, MSD 6al, holley red, warn hubs (Mud truck)
if you install an electric pump bypass or remove the mechanical one unless you like diesel in the crank case
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94 ford f250 7.3 turbo idi headlight mod,electric fuel pump,tinted windows all around,straight piped and 6" stack and sweet camo trim in the cab
if you install an electric pump bypass or remove the mechanical one unless you like diesel in the crank case
with a manual fuel pump block off plate that fits the big block chevy. im learning!
oh yeah,the holy red pump seems to be the preference around here.
i see many doing this due do to making a better system with less starting probs.
but dont forget this is a MPG/HP mod too!!
a manual fuel pump runs off the crank(way old school!!).the holly red's i notice only draw a couple amps!
the hp gain i would bet(for those very used to their trucks) is enough to actually feel.
when you can feel the diff in one mod alone,you know your on your way to freeing up some ponies.
(read some racing equp places where some add's claim "free up "##"HP with a electric fuel pump"-some have proven dyno tests to back up such claims as well)
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1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
I ran my truck out of diesel completely on the weekend and an electric fuel pump makes it dead easy to get started again. I just bleed from the valve on the fuel filter and that was enough to get started right up. Coughed abit at first but a pretty quick startup.
When i bypassed my Mechanical fuel pump i noticed a huge difference in power , but that was due to the motor actually getting enough fuel for once lol.
I use an EP80S ( 6-7 PSI) in series with the mechanical pump. I only use it to prime the system to relieve the load on the starter. I cut a section out of the metal line going to the filter and insert the electric pump. That way if I have a bad diaphragm in the mechanical pump, I won't fill the crank case with fuel. I only get air into the system which lets me know there's a problem. Actually, the rubber line from the frame to the mechanical pump is long enough that I can slip the connector hose off of the electric pump and bypass the mechanical pump.
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im learning!
