i've always been into the import scene and still currently drive my rotary powered 1987 rx-7. but i've always had a love for the old school, actually couldnt help it being raised a gear head you tend to have a natural appreciation for it ( no school like the old school right? lol)
so i recently finally did it and bought a 1965 f-100. runs like a champ but does need the love. i do have a problem though. for some reason it tends to pop right out of drive and will drop to reverse( it is an automatic with the shifter on the column naturally). so i was wondering what is the cause and cure for this. i can still drive it but i have to hold the shifter in the drive postion. and i apologize for sounding so "noob" but i am new to the scene but planning to put in what it takes to get this truck to my ideal vision.
Sounds like you have some movement of your tranny or the cab.
Check:
1. to make certain that your cabmounts (cab to frame) are not rotted causing the cab to move and pop your tranny out of gear
2. motormounts are broken causing you engine to lift and pop the tranny out of gear
3. transmission mount is not broken causing you tranny to move and pop the tranny out of gear
thanks carras I'll get right on checking thru the list you just gave me. but can i ask if anything with the steering column could also cause this? just wondering, i got a buddy's dad making the assumption that is the problem, all though i dont quite agree 100%.
IsoGrifo, lol nice i have been to a seven stock and it is definitely a good exp. well my visions. if i had to put it easy... i see this truck being my "show car" but with less flashiness i guess if that makes sense. i want to keep the look original as possible because i want to show a good sense of respect for the generation it comes from. i do want to slam it but not like the low rider style. sure ill have the goodies like a decent system but more importantly i just want it to be my cruising car. i've wanted a truck like this for awhile and it was out of luck the opportunity came so i'm very thankful. i dont plan for big horsepower or good times at the track. my little drift rx7 is perfect for that. engine wise i just want to build it for reliability and to really get to know this beast. i know its very vague but again im new to this seen and have a lot to learn.
btw sorry for the epic wall text lol i got carried away
I'd put my $.25 on the front cab mount. Try placing a jack under the edge of the cab at the door hinge area and give it a gentle lift to check for any movement (not enough to cause any damage)
If yes, and until you can get it corrected, you might try jacking under the cab support and slip a 1X4 block between the chassis and cab mount to stabilize it.
Rick at Carolina-classic.com has the replacement parts needed.
John
__________________
In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Here's another likely cause not previously mentioned.
I would not be a bit surprised if this is the problemo, as it began occuring when these trucks were only a few years old.
People tended to place the shift lever into Park before setting the hand brake....even when the truck was parked on a slope.
This would cause the truck to roll...just enough...to lock up the parking pawl inside the transmission.
Now, the shift lever had to be YANKED out of Park to free up the parking pawl.
Inside the steering column, bolted to the underside of the upper flange is a half moon shaped spring steel detent which is composed of individual shift gates for Park, Reverse, Neutral, both Drives, and Low.
Like this crummy example: \ I I I I I /
The shift lever has a tab on it that fits in between the individual gates.
Sooner or later, yanking the shift lever oughtta Park, causes the shift gate between Park and Reverse to snapoff.
Now...after this occurs, when you place the lever into Park, it can..and will slip into Reverse!
The bad news: C5TZ7A216A .. Detent is obsolete/ Fits: 1965/66 F100/250 ONLY.
No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any, and AFAIK, this detent has not been reproduced.
btw: This is nothing new, this same problemo affects ALL 1961/79's.
Different detents were used for different years. All of these...however...are obsolete. Some may be available at dealers/obsolete parts vendors, but not for 1965/66's.
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman (1962/97) / SoCal Chapter Member.
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2000 // Cars: 1928/79.
1934 Packard V12 Convertible Victoria // 2008 Fusion S // 2008 Edge SEL.
You may be able to find one from someone that is intact or if they happen to have one out, ask for pictures. The detent plate is made of pot metal as far as I can tell from holding the one for the wifes Fairlane. Hers is showing signs of what Bill refered to in his post. Also a lack of lubrication will wear the damn thing down as well. You can take yours out of the column and find metal of the same thinkness. Get the files and grinder out and start shaping. Use the picture someone sends to you and import it into MS paint and start drawing lines on the thing. Then once the lines match up print it until it fit on the piece from your column. You now have a template to shape the indents on your new one to.
Just an idea...
__________________
Mark J. Covill
"I'm not handicapped, I'm handicapable!"
'64 F-100 Shortbed 460/C-6
Author of the disc brake article for 57-64 F-100's
Usually when the individual gate snaps off betwen Park and Reverse, there is a stub of it remaining.
I suppose someone with welding skills could weld a piece on that stub. But...the first time you have to yank the lever oughtta park...what will happen to that weld?
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Partsman (1962/97) / SoCal Chapter Member.
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2000 // Cars: 1928/79.
1934 Packard V12 Convertible Victoria // 2008 Fusion S // 2008 Edge SEL.
Well who ever welded it should be smart enough to match the filler material with the original metal to prevent that sort of thing and heat treat is afterwards... Welds are normally stronger then the original material unless there is a lot of impurities in it or a lack of penitration.
The only reason I think they are made from a cast is the granular structure of the Fairlanes detent plate. It is pretty rough looking compared to a stamped steel piece.
__________________
Mark J. Covill
"I'm not handicapped, I'm handicapable!"
'64 F-100 Shortbed 460/C-6
Author of the disc brake article for 57-64 F-100's
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