I used a BOB on my truck last week and discovered that my O2 is reading .030V in and out of the computer regardless of rpm with the engine warm. Any recommendations on a new O2 sensor? There are many options ranging from a $16 Bosh to a $90 Ford Racing sensor. I assume Motorcraft or Ford Racing would be the best, but is the brand or price really important?
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1986 Ford F150 Flare-side pick-up. Two tone paint, cruise control, power windows, power locks, heat, A/C, 302 EFI, automatic overdrive trans, 4x4. Upgrades: Pioneer stereo & speakers, fog lights, tow hitch, front tow hooks, 31" tires, 16" Cragar black steelies, true dual exhaust, cold air intake, hot ignition system, chrome valve covers.
Hmm I didn't know that. That's interesting. So, the $16 dollar Bosch should do just fine then. Thanks, I appreciate it.
After towing a '69 VW bug on a car dolly today my truck has not wanted to idle. It idles really rough and keeps stalling in Drive. I am suspicious of my IAC valve, or TPS sensor. I'll change the O2 and go from there.
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1986 Ford F150 Flare-side pick-up. Two tone paint, cruise control, power windows, power locks, heat, A/C, 302 EFI, automatic overdrive trans, 4x4. Upgrades: Pioneer stereo & speakers, fog lights, tow hitch, front tow hooks, 31" tires, 16" Cragar black steelies, true dual exhaust, cold air intake, hot ignition system, chrome valve covers.
I discovered that the vacuum line going to my EGR had melted on the heat riser pipe. I repaired the vac line and needless to say the truck idles much better.
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
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1986 Ford F150 Flare-side pick-up. Two tone paint, cruise control, power windows, power locks, heat, A/C, 302 EFI, automatic overdrive trans, 4x4. Upgrades: Pioneer stereo & speakers, fog lights, tow hitch, front tow hooks, 31" tires, 16" Cragar black steelies, true dual exhaust, cold air intake, hot ignition system, chrome valve covers.
I discovered that the vacuum line going to my EGR had melted on the heat riser pipe. I repaired the vac line and needless to say the truck idles much better.
I am considering switching to a 3 wire (heated) O2 sensor. I am thinking a heated O2 would work better since I relocated the O2 farther away from the engine when I switched to headers. It is now located in the reducer of my passenger side header collector. All I would have to do is connect the signal wire, connect a ground, and connect a hot in run power source. Am I over thinking, or would this conversion be worth doing?
__________________
1986 Ford F150 Flare-side pick-up. Two tone paint, cruise control, power windows, power locks, heat, A/C, 302 EFI, automatic overdrive trans, 4x4. Upgrades: Pioneer stereo & speakers, fog lights, tow hitch, front tow hooks, 31" tires, 16" Cragar black steelies, true dual exhaust, cold air intake, hot ignition system, chrome valve covers.
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