hey guys just got my truck back from the "mechanics" still not cranking and running.i just wanted to try a few things before i send it off two hrs away to a real diesel shop.so i tried a new cps.no luck.it turns over fine but she acts like shes not getting fuel/fire.fuel makes it to the bowl i cracked it and checked.how can i check past that?how can i check for fire?and whats the blow by filler neck check all about?she gets right on the verge of cranking but she doesnt.any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and tried.just cant believe the motors gone.... according to the shop.
hey guys just got my truck back from the "mechanics" still not cranking and running.i just wanted to try a few things before i send it off two hrs away to a real diesel shop.so i tried a new cps.no luck.it turns over fine but she acts like shes not getting fuel/fire.fuel makes it to the bowl i cracked it and checked.how can i check past that?how can i check for fire?and whats the blow by filler neck check all about?she gets right on the verge of cranking but she doesnt.any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and tried.just cant believe the motors gone according to the shop.
I am probably late to the "party", but have you tried disconnecting your ICP sensor on the drivers side head? Also, check your HPOP reservoir for oil, as it need to be about 1/2" from the top.
First of all...since we're working with a diesel, and diesel's don't have spark plugs, you aren't going to find any "fire". These engines rely on extremely high oil pressure to fire the fuel injectors. If the oil pressure coming out of the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) isn't at least 500psi, the truck won't start. If you're getting fuel to the fuel bowl, and the pressure from the fuel pump is good, I would be willing to bet that you are getting fuel to the injectors. The first thing I would do is check the HPOP pressure. What's the history on this issue? Did the truck just die on you one day or what? There is a TON of knowledge on this site, and I'm sure one of the more "seasoned" members will chime in with some ideas. Welcome to the forum btw!
Like 87beater. I kind of like to start at the beginning. Tell us how you got to the point your at now. Then tell us what year your truck is. Don't worry about the pressure out the oil fill tube for now. Odds are that's not your problem.
Things we need to know; Does the WTS (wait to start) light come on and then go off after a few seconds like normal? Does the tach needle bounce any while cranking? Does the oil pressure gauge move after 15 - 20 seconds of cranking? Is there any smoke or smells that comes out of the tail pipe while cranking? If so, what color smoke?
I'd say the first thing you'll need to do is charge the batteries since low voltage (like from repeated cranking attempts) means the IDM will not fire the injectors. Give us some more info and we'll help you figure out what to do next.
Something you might want to start thinking about is how much $$$ a "real diesel shop" and the tow there will cost you. If you plan on keeping the truck for a while, perhaps an investment in a good scanner like AE will pay for itself rather quick.
10 4 guys i understand im looking at some dough here.one thing im short on.hears the deal one my way from work a month ago i was pulling my trailer home(8x8) when the whole "pitch" of my motor changed,(it went down??) and started spewin black sooty smoked .i stopped,had one of my guys hooked up to the trailer....fired my truck up and proceeded to drive the truck to a guys shop 6miles away.the closest one....ive used him before on my takeuchis motor.anyways he mets me there and we hooked up his 8000 snapon to my truck and it says my pcm,idm and five injectors blew out/bunredup/failed so i got new sheit including all eight injectors(rebuilt from pensacola deisel)changed it all out. new cam position sensor too...well we put it all together(mostly they did)when we got it all back together(no more codes)...cant get her to crank......... im dumbfounded as what to do next.they think i need a new motor.i dont beleive the sumbtich is blowed up .its something simple.how the hell did i drive it 6 miles if something critical was wrong with internally
also when i jump the gloe plug relays with a screwdriver i can see the glowplugs lite up through a clear fitting on my up pipe? y fitting? that goes into the intake. only when i jump the relay closest to the radiator though.... not the second one (closest to the firewall)
I guess you've already mailed the core injectors back to Florida? I've heard some bad stories about Pensacola rebuilds, but have not heard of all 8 being bad from them. I have looked at one truck that had a DIY type injector rebuild and it would crank over and smoke as you describe but not start. Everything checked out fine on my scanner. Swapping some used injectors in on one bank got the motor to fire up.
If the scanner is still available, you can check ICP pressure and IPR duty cycle while cranking. You can also do an injector buzz test. You might even get lucky and be able to unplug one of the connectors at the valve cover and see if you can get it to fire up on 4 cylinders. If the injectors were rebuilt wrong, I don't know how you can test them except by pulling them out and having them checked, but for all 8 to be bad does seem REALLY unusual. I'll keep thinking about this one and see if I come up with any better ideas.
What your info is telling us so far: The tach bouncing on your 2000 7.3 means the PCM is receiving the signal from the CPS, the WTS light functioning indicates the PCM is getting the voltage in the right circuit, oil pressure gauge moving means you're not out of oil (you never did comment on if it's full), and the smoke while cranking means the IDM is indeed firing the injectors.
Edit: You want to jump the relay closest to the firewall for the glow plugs. The other relay is your AIH, which is why you see it glowing in front of the turbo. It has nothing to do with glow plugs, but instead heats the air going into the motor for those really cold mornings.
whooah let me absorbe that..only five threw codes as bad but i figued since we were that far along replace all eighteven though #8 itsslef wasnt bad...so replace the glowplug relay???and whats the icp?
don't worry about the fuel, black smoke means excess fuel. so the fact that you are getting little black puffs of smoke out of the tail pipe means that you are getting fuel to the cylinders.
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Jeron
Early 99 F250 SD PSD Super Cab, 210,000 miles, 4" lift 35" tires, Hutch & Harpoon, CCV, 6637, TransGo Tugger with rebuild, DiPricol Gauges EGT/Boost/Trans Temp, Door Lock Foil Fix
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These engines rely on extremely high oil pressure to fire the fuel injectors. If the oil pressure coming out of the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) isn't at least 500psi, the truck won't start. If you're getting fuel to the fuel bowl, and the pressure from the fuel pump is good, I would be willing to bet that you are getting fuel to the injectors. The first thing I would do is check the HPOP pressure. What's the history on this issue? Did the truck just die on you one day or what? There is a TON of knowledge on this site, and I'm sure one of the more "seasoned" members will chime in with some ideas. Welcome to the forum btw!
