Hey everyone,
I have a Dana 44 "limited slip" that I'd like to put in the front end of my Bronco in place of the open differential.
Currently, the unit is out and I'm trying to take it apart. I got the easy part out of the way by removing the gear, but can't seem to access the internals.
I removed the pin that goes through the middle of the internal gears (the one that's about 4" long), but can't seem to get any further. Should the gears come out after this? Do I need to have the bearings pressed off to access the internals? I'm looking to replace all of the clutches.
That brings up another question, does anyone know a good source for a new clutch pack?
Thanks for any insight.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
I was walking down the street one day, saw some kids working on their car at the curb. They asked me if I had a harmonic balancer puller, now they were working on a chevy and I was into chevy's then (not any more) so I did happen to have one. We got into a discussion about what they were doing. It turns out that they were going to change the camshaft for one that had more bounce. And of course they had to take off the timing cover to get out the camshaft. But they didn't realize that they had to take the radiator off, and the air conditioner condenser and the intake manifold, and the lifters and the valve covers.
In other words, they read an article in Hot Rod Magazine about how much more power they could get from a new cam. They didn't read, understand, or follow how much work they were actually getting into.
Long Story Short, I didn't let them borrow the harmonic balancer puller.
Any useful info on this?
I'm curious if I need to have the bearings pressed off to access and replace the clutches, or if I can rebuild it without removing them.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
Is there a spring between the spider gears? If so that has to come out first and then the side gears can be removed 1 at a time starting with either the top or bottom gear that is held in by the pinion shaft. The other gears will rotate some as you pull these out so be prepared for that and this also should give you a clue as to how they go back together.. they have to spin into place.
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Paul O
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55LS, Comp XE264HR-14, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion, TweecerRT with BE, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
Okay. If that's the case, then I think they're just "grease welded" in place. The unit's been sitting for a while so the old fluid and stuff that was in there is caked and dried. I'll have to soak it for a little bit.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
Was able to get the gears out last night, just needed some coaxing.
One of the teeth has a small chip in it. Does this generally effect performance? I use 4wd only a couple times a year for snow, camping, etc, and not for a daily or weekend warrior. Just curious if I should have it replaced.
If so, anyone know a source where I can just buy 1 gear and not a full rebuild kit? Everything else seems to be in good shape.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
I hate to rain on your parade, but you do realize that you will have to set up the gears? (ring and pinoin) Your going to have to press those bearings off to do that. if the chip is small, it may not matter. I would polish any sharp spots.
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90' Bronco, 351, MSD Ign., SS 3" exhaust,
38" x 15.50 R15 Dirt Grips, 14" x 15" Alcoa wheels
6" lift w/ cutout flares, 40 gal. fuel tank
F diff - lockright locker, 4.88's
R diff - Powertrax locker, 4.88's
Cast diff cover w/ carrier braces
Rear full float axles, truss, Above spring traction bars
What do you mean I'll have to set up the gears? Not sure what that is.
I'm changing my tire size and am going to be regearing anyway from a 3.00 to a 3.50. I currently have a full 3.50 9" axle in my garage with the desired ratio, as well as a 3.50 ring and pinion for the front. A friend gave me a limited slip carrier for the front as well. Don't I just bolt my 3.50 gears on like the old one came off? Or is what you're talking about something I'm going to face once I open the front diff up?
Since I am going to be changing gears anyway, I might as well know what's in store for me.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
What do you mean I'll have to set up the gears? Not sure what that is.
I'm changing my tire size and am going to be regearing anyway from a 3.00 to a 3.50. I currently have a full 3.50 9" axle in my garage with the desired ratio, as well as a 3.50 ring and pinion for the front. A friend gave me a limited slip carrier for the front as well. Don't I just bolt my 3.50 gears on like the old one came off? Or is what you're talking about something I'm going to face once I open the front diff up?
Since I am going to be changing gears anyway, I might as well know what's in store for me.
Hahaha, you don't know what you're getting into.
You don't just bolt it back together and drive it away. If you do, you will destroy the gears in a few miles.
There are a number of very precise measurements that you need to make using a few special tools. It's either exactly right or completely wrong. It takes some experience to do it, and it will definitely take a lot of time.
I have never done it, and I will probably take it to a shop to have it done when it comes time to do it.
No, which is why I'm looking into getting a pinion depth tool gauge, as well as the other stuff necessary to get everything lined up. I figure the tools are going to cost less than what the shop would charge. I never figured it would be easy and a not really looking forward to it.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
No, which is why I'm looking into getting a pinion depth tool gauge, as well as the other stuff necessary to get everything lined up. I figure the tools are going to cost less than what the shop would charge. I never figured it would be easy and a not really looking forward to it.
I think that as long as you have the right tools, a good set of instructions to go by (and follow them closely), you take your time and have a clean place to work, you will be fine.
Yes, it is very doable. The nine inch is nice to work on. The solid axle 44 is not so nice. (this is one area the TTB is better) In any case, it sounds like your on the right track. You have to press off the old bearings and most people grind them out for "set up" bearings. I think if you are changing gears, I would go lower than 3.50. Of course, I cant see doing that much work for a L/S either. Thats just me.
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90' Bronco, 351, MSD Ign., SS 3" exhaust,
38" x 15.50 R15 Dirt Grips, 14" x 15" Alcoa wheels
6" lift w/ cutout flares, 40 gal. fuel tank
F diff - lockright locker, 4.88's
R diff - Powertrax locker, 4.88's
Cast diff cover w/ carrier braces
Rear full float axles, truss, Above spring traction bars
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