Good work Nick. That old sealant sure is a PITA to get off, isn't it?
Built my detector using a 3" ID pipe cap, my old E99 intake tube and an all steel schrader valve. Less then 5 bucks.
Use with caution. The cap blew out of the tube at about 40 PSI. Scared the chit out of me. I have since put 4
self tapping hex head screws with attached rubber washers right through the hose clamp band and into the cap.
Edit : I found a leaking boot between the spider and intake plenum.
Nice going nick ! I wish I could get close to those numbers on my boost gauge ! I guess you'll need to come up here with clay and fix my up-pipes and find all the boost leaks ! Later buddy ! Russ
Is this why I got a phone call the other night, somebody needed an intercooler?
I'm glad you got her figured out Nick, sorry I missed your call.
__________________ Jeff
01' CC PSD LARIAT 4X4 6" Spring Superlift, 37's
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Just curious.... what is this manifold you are talking about replacing? Do you mean a manifold gasket? or a manifold?
How hard of a job is this? How much time to allocate for this procedure?
Thanks.
Don't invite trouble. Most times a manifold leak is from the hose itself as the factory job for the plenum is usually sealed quite well. Our manifold sits above the valley and is connected to the plenums via hoses. There is no conventional manifold so to speak.
__________________
Mike
Silver truck with a hairdryer and sticks. A lot of other less expensive chit too which adds up to expensive.
Just curious.... what is this manifold you are talking about replacing? Do you mean a manifold gasket? or a manifold?
How hard of a job is this? How much time to allocate for this procedure?
Thanks.
There is an intake plenum/manifold on each head. There is no gasket between them and the heads. They are sealed by a special Ford sealant. The turbo-charged air is fed to them via the spider. If there is a leak between the plenum(s) and the head(s) it will result in a boost leak. What Nick did was remove the plenums and old sealant and replace the plenums using new sealant to fix a boost leak. I replaced my early 99 2 1/2" plenums with later model 3" plenums when doing a turbo upgrade. Separating the plenums from the heads is diffucult without distorting the originals, that sealant is tough stuff. I bent the passenger side plenum pretty good, but was replacing it anyway so was not concerned. The driver side came off pretty easy and I did not bend that one.
To R&R the plenums you need to remove the spider and the IC tubes at the least. Once the plenums are off you need to clean off all the old sealant, reapply new sealant and then install the plenums. Of all the individual things of doing the turbo upgrade removing the old plenums, cleaning off the heads and then installing the new plenums was the worst part and took the most time. Once I got to the plenums it took me about 3 1/2 hours to complete the R&R. I was meticulous about getting all the old sealant off. A couple of the bolts at the front of the passenger side are a real PITA to remove and re-install. There is no right or left plenum, they are identical and interchangeable. There is a slot at one end so that the bolt furthest forward and inboard on the passenger side does not have to be fully removed but just loosened. If that bolt is removed it would be a royal PITA to get back in because of the limited room next to the front cover. If I had it to do over again I would have left the 2 1/2" plenums on. It has been said that the 3" plenums don't make much difference. Follow Mile's advice and Do not R&R a plenum because you think there is a leak. Make sure there is a leak.
This is best picture I have of the plemuns. You can see the round intake of each one. Notice that they are offset and turned 180° to each other, that's because the heads are offset. Something I had not realized until I got all the old turbo hardware off.
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That old sealant sure is a PITA to get off, isn't it?
Jeff 
