If your truck has front anti lock brakes, dont forget to remove the bolt and the sensor, if not when u pull the spindle it will break the sensor. FYI, my 92 f150 has 244k, and it still has the factory center u-joint. If its good, leave it.
No ABS, but I think I am going to skip the center joint for now. We'll see how quickly the two outers go. After that, I will just keep an eye on the center joint to see how it is holding in. I'm not skeered, but I'm not real big on laying on the ground, learning how to rebuild all the joints under my truck. I have been spoiled after having access to a hoist for 10 years, and now that option is gone. Thanks for the insight guys, too bad the joints didn't go bad a couple years ago !!
1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
Went pretty smooth, only did one side so far. It was the side making the noise. I spent around 3.5 hours, with a lunch break. The worst part was getting the spindle off the knuckle, I spent around 45 minutes with an air hammer beating on it. Then after getting the new joint together, it would not go through the knuckle. Back to the press I went and made sure the caps were in all the way, which in turn just made the joint tighter and not as easy to move. But they had to go further in to get it into the knuckle. After it was all said and done, I've decided the other side is going to get a different brand joint, maybe the quality of the joint will be better, and will actually go through the knuckle. Otherwise,after some cussing (truck and parts mfg) it is done, bring on the snow.
If the joint is is tight after the install of new joints, take a large hammer and pound on the steel around the joint it will relive pressure in the joint and make it smooth out... Becareful with banging on the spindle with a air gun.... Did you install the c clips on the ujoint when pressed in? they hold the caps in place when installed ( you may have a different setup, but my joints have a clip that snaps around the caps)
I wondered what those half-circle thingies were, I just pitched 'em, was I supposed to put those in? HA...JK yea I put the clips in, and figured at that point the joint shoulda been far enough together, but it wouldn't go through the knuckle. I used an 8 lb rubber hammer as a convincer, and the joint caps just proceeded to leave gouges in the knuckle. And as far as the air hammer on the spindle, on my '96 there is a hole on the front/backside of the knuckle, which is just perfect to fit the hammer bit in and actually rattle on the back of the spindle, without damaging the mating surfaces or edges of the spindle. I'm just kinda bummed that the joint tolerances were so crappy, and they couldn't make it just a few thousandths smaller to squeeze through the knuckle.
Oh....and thanks for the torque specs donniez. I feel better knowing I probably won't trash the bearings, and I didn't have to pay to get them. I gave the spindle nuts a little extra squeeze because of the rust on the studs, I'd hate to have the spindle come loose. But all-in-all, I'm confident everything is right.
Sweet doug6644! glad to help and those spindles can sure be a pain so glad you had a place to hammer away!!!! I didnt mean to make ya feel funny when i asked about the c clips take care!!!! Good work!!!!
Ya never know what people would think about the clips. It would not surprise me to hear of someone not putting them in, even after they removed them from the old joint.
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