I am looking for recommendations on how to restore the paint on my 67 Bronco; it has that dull, powdery, oxidized look to it.
I've been reading online about the different polishes, waxes, cleaners, etc. available, but I'm leary about using products that seem to be made for modern car finishes on such old paint. Also, there seem to be different suggestions depending on the paint color (my bronco is yellow)
I'm sure it's not the original paint because according to the build sheet I got from Ford, it was originally white.
Maybe I'm worrying needlessly, but I have a feeling that I could really screw this up if I'm not careful.
Thanks for any advise!
Melanie
__________________ "If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we know we must go back if we live, and we don't know why." - Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
Meguires made a couple step process that was good. I guess it's still available. Seperate cleaner, polish and carnuba wax. If I remember right it was called NO. 7. Worked really well.
__________________ 76 Bronco Explorer 289 Hi-Po
66 U14 Half Cab Bronco frame off in progress
With regards to oxidation, here is what I would recommend...
1. Purchase a 6" orbital buffer- They do not create heat so there is no issue regarding "burning the paint". They can be found typiclaly at any auto parts chain for about $15-$20. I have a $50 orbital and a $100 buffer & I like the 6" orbital the best for most common issues.
2. Purchase 2 or 3 foam pads for the buffer (they can be washed out after with liquid soap/water). Foam evenly distributes/works the product you are applying. I additionally recommend using "cheese cloth" or "cotton felt" for removal (each is available very cheap- typically $5 a yard- at any fabric store). I have tried many micro fiber cloths (even just recived one of Meg's newest ones that hasn't hit the stores yet) and I keep going back to the cotton-based products- why, well, they just seem to polish the paint's finish better; they are disposible so it really reduces the possibility of a small piece of dirt becoming embedded and causing me more work.
3. 1st, I would clean the paint with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol & white vinegar. Denatured alcohol is available at any hardware store & is oil free!!!! This will remove any wax, sealer, residual oil, etc on the paint so you know you are really starting at "ground zero"
4. I prefer 3M products (available at any auto paint supplier). There are three products I would try at the store to verify it will work (and yeah, most of the paint guys will let you try a dab to ensure it will work)....
1. Hand glaze- This typically is for removing swirl marks but it is a excellent paint cleaner and removes/dissolves minor oxidation. It will create a very deep shine.
2. Finisse II- it is a very fine micro polish, similar to a cleaner-wax without the wax. It will definitely remove medium/heavy oxidation; then use the hand glaze for a deeper shine if needed.
3. Apply wax or paint sealer. 3M makes a very nice silicone-based wax called Show car shine; or if you would prefer a paint sealer, I use a product called ProFection from Prowax (they have an online site).
FYI, 3M now owns Meg's- I have never been a big fan of Meg's because although their products do work good, they are typically easy to use, the durability is less than what I would like. i have also found during my tenure on the earth that Meg's products work goood, but 3M & Prowax products work just a little better, are just as easy to use and the durability is really outstanding.
There are other products out there that even work better, but they are pricey!! $ for $ I think 3M and Prowax are the best product for the $ in 99% of the common applications.
__________________
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Meguires made a couple step process that was good. I guess it's still available. Seperate cleaner, polish and carnuba wax. If I remember right it was called NO. 7. Worked really well.
The Meguires No. 7 was recommended on several of the websites I've visited while researching this. There is also a large selection of Meguires at the Auto Parts store closest to me, which is nice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid
With regards to oxidation, here is what I would recommend...
1. Purchase a 6" orbital buffer- They do not create heat so there is no issue regarding "burning the paint". They can be found typiclaly at any auto parts chain for about $15-$20. I have a $50 orbital and a $100 buffer & I like the 6" orbital the best for most common issues.
2. Purchase 2 or 3 foam pads for the buffer (they can be washed out after with liquid soap/water). Foam evenly distributes/works the product you are applying. I additionally recommend using "cheese cloth" or "cotton felt" for removal (each is available very cheap- typically $5 a yard- at any fabric store). I have tried many micro fiber cloths (even just recived one of Meg's newest ones that hasn't hit the stores yet) and I keep going back to the cotton-based products- why, well, they just seem to polish the paint's finish better; they are disposible so it really reduces the possibility of a small piece of dirt becoming embedded and causing me more work.
3. 1st, I would clean the paint with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol & white vinegar. Denatured alcohol is available at any hardware store & is oil free!!!! This will remove any wax, sealer, residual oil, etc on the paint so you know you are really starting at "ground zero"
4. I prefer 3M products (available at any auto paint supplier). There are three products I would try at the store to verify it will work (and yeah, most of the paint guys will let you try a dab to ensure it will work)....
1. Hand glaze- This typically is for removing swirl marks but it is a excellent paint cleaner and removes/dissolves minor oxidation. It will create a very deep shine.
2. Finisse II- it is a very fine micro polish, similar to a cleaner-wax without the wax. It will definitely remove medium/heavy oxidation; then use the hand glaze for a deeper shine if needed.
3. Apply wax or paint sealer. 3M makes a very nice silicone-based wax called Show car shine; or if you would prefer a paint sealer, I use a product called ProFection from Prowax (they have an online site).
FYI, 3M now owns Meg's- I have never been a big fan of Meg's because although their products do work good, they are typically easy to use, the durability is less than what I would like. i have also found during my tenure on the earth that Meg's products work goood, but 3M & Prowax products work just a little better, are just as easy to use and the durability is really outstanding.
There are other products out there that even work better, but they are pricey!! $ for $ I think 3M and Prowax are the best product for the $ in 99% of the common applications.
Thank you Beechkid, for such a comprehensive write up! I've been dreading tackling this project again since I haven't had much luck in the past. But this sounds very promising and the prospect of having a nice, glossy finish makes me excited to get started! (egads! I must be nuts!) And it won't cost an arm and a leg!
I'll take before and after pictures and post them up when I'm done! Thanks again!
Melanie
__________________ "If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we know we must go back if we live, and we don't know why." - Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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76 Bronco Explorer 289 Hi-Po
