Hey there folks. I have a 1989 f150 4x4. Just put another 5.0 in it. The old one had no oil pressure and the lower end was shot when I got it about 6 months ago. Got everything back together and I have a few codes I'm not sure about. The first set is 34, 52, 34, 52 then there is a lang pause and I get 41, 34, 41 ,34. When I look at the code sheet I found on the net I don't find a 52 except for smaller engines. On those it is for the power sterring pressure switch. Not sure if it is the same for the 5.0 I have. Any how the engine runs OK but does feel a little sluggish and I am getting about 11-12 mpg. I think the other codes have to do with the egr valve but I am not sure. 34 says it is the evr sensor. Not sure what evr is. 41 says the system is rich for 15 seconds or longer. This is to be my daily driver and has not and will not be jacked up or anything. Staying stock with it as much as possible. Any help in tracing these will be greatly appriciated.
Thanks Jermafenser. I actually found this site earlier but it appears that the codes there are for four bangers. Are they the same for 5.0s? It would make sence that all ford codes are the same but wasn't sure.
52 is for the power steering pressure switch on the 5.0 engine. 34 is an EGR code and 41 is for the O2 sensor. The 34 means the computer is thinking the EGR valve is still open. Check the EGR for proper operation and test the EGR valve position sensor (EVP). If the computer thinks the EGR is open, it will inject less fuel, which may be causing the lean O2 sensor code 41.
Picked up an 02 sensor today. I think I am going to go ahead and replace the EGR and the EVR. I don't know how to test the EGR. Not sure where the power steering pressure switch is. Can you help me with that?
Thanks a bunch. I'll be sure and let you know how it works out....
The PSPS should be in the high pressure line where the hose meets the hard line that goes into the steering gearbox. The only issue you may have if that is not working is the idle speed when turning the wheel while the truck is stopped. It shouldn't cause any problems in regular driving.
Put the 02 sensor on today with no noticible change. Was looking at your ealier reply and it seams you were dead on about the egr and evp causing the 02 to appear bad. I'll try to get those two replaced in the next couple of days. Thanks so much for your guidance, you been a great help in getting me to understand these systems enough to hopefully get them right again. I'll let you know how it goes when I replace the egr and the evp.
As you've discovered, that's the bad part about the early generation diagnostics. The codes give a good hint at what the problem is and how to begin troubleshooting the problem, but don't always give an exact answer every time. Good luck with it, hopefully between the codes and the forum here you can get it fixed soon!
Think I am on the right track finally. Picked up the new egr and position sensor. Checked the vacuum line going to the egr and found it to have a very small pin hole in it. Taped it up for a temp fix and put it back on the old egr. The valve did not move. Covered the top of the new valve with the palm of my hand and hooked the vacuum line to it and "presto", it opened right up. Tells me the old one is stuck, right? I'll replace it with the new one in the morning. Can't fool around with it too much at work. Bottom line is EPCSU2006 you were dead on with your advise. Thanks a million.
Need help!!!!!!!!!!!!! replaced EGR and EVP. Now EGR stays open all the time. Idles real rough when vaccum line is conected to EGR. Don't know what the switch is called that controls the EGR but it has constant suction all the time. How do I check the voltage readings on this switch to see off it is bad or if it is getting the wrong voltage. Any other thing that could cause this. Bout ready to choke myself on this one.
EPCSU2006 was dead on about the EGR, I hope he or someone else can guide me through checking this switch. I am going to start another thread with this problem cause it looks like noone is looking at this one.
Looked at "viewed" and saw others are still looking so I am not going to start a new thread. Will continue on this one. HELP!!!! Guys, pulling my hair out here.....
Does the valve close when you disconnect the vacuum line? The EVR is the vacuum regulator that the computer uses to control the valve position. It is mounted near the ignition coil on the driver side of the engine. If you unplug the electrical connection, the EVR should hold vacuum on the supply side. If it bleeds vacuum to the controlled side, the EVR is bad and should be replaced. The controlled side should bleed vacuum through the filter on top of the EVR - this allows the EGR valve to close when the EVR closes.
I found the EVR. For some reason I was calling the EGR valve position sensor the EVR. Now I know the difference. The bottom vaccum line on the EVR (red) has constant vaccum. This is causing the top (green to the EGR) constant vaccum. So I guess that means the EVR is bad. I took it off and took the top cover of it off. It was full of rusty colored dirt. What is the full name of the EVR so I can get another one? When I thought EVR was the acronym for the EGR position sensor I asked for one and the parts guy said he did not know what that was. Bottom line he is computer dependant and if it is not in his computer, which it is not, as an EVR he don't know how to find it.
And to answer your question, the EGR is opening and staying open. I guess I shouldn't compain too much though the old one was stuck closed. At least this one will open. THANKS again for keeping me on track with this thing.
Oh forgot to tell you. I found the PSPS and it was actually unpluged. Dont know if I missed it when I replased the motor. Thought I went over it with a fine tooth comb to insure everything was hooked up as it was. Oh well, good now. Thanks. This sight is great.
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again for keeping me on track with this thing.
