i appreciate all the help from my last post with a few issues i was having. i just got home from work today and i took the key to off and out of the truck and it kept running, heater stereo and dash lights all shut off but the truck kept going. im thinking a ignition switch problem but i dont have a wiring diagram to see if its possible or maybe a faulted fuel shutoff solenoid. to stay running the solenoid must have a contineous 12v signal right? thank you for all of your continued help with the new guy who just want a truck to run and shut off as well
nick reno
Before I got a new fuel solenoid I would drain the fuel filter then refill it with Diesel Kleen.
Now start the engine, let it run for 15 seconds and shut it off.
Hopefully the engine will stop while the Diesel Kleen is rather strong in the IP.
Dumping a strong dose in the fuel tank may help as well.
Now let it soak for a while, couple hours or a day if you don't need to drive the truck.
When you fire it back up, run it a while.
If the Diesel Kleen has cut any deposits out of the IP the shut off solenoid should start working again.
Over time, deposits in the injection pump make the linkages stick.
Engine may not turn off, engine may stall when you decelerate to a stop sign or the governor may let the engine over speed when you are accelerating.
It's hard to tell how many fuel system parts have been sold to fix trucks that only needed a couple strong doses of fuel system cleaner run through them.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
I'm a little confused because I have had the truck running a few more times and it's a 50/50 shot as to whether it will shut down by key turn and out of two times removing the power supply to the solenoid it has shut down once an kept running at a lower idle. It's not a constant failure but I just bought some diesel kleen and I'll try thatif I get home early enough
When you turn the key off, you are turning off the electricity to the fuel shut off solenoid.
If it did not shut down twice when you turned the key off, all that pulling the wire did was give the spring in the shut off solenoid a bit longer to move the govenor linkage.
The time it just went to a lower idle, again just gave the spring more time, but not enough.
When you apply power to the fuel shut off solenoid, you are energizng an electromagnet that overpowers the shut down spring so the engine gets fuel and runs.
Dead fuel shut off solenoid, the engine does not start.
Remove the power to the solenoid and the engine does not shut down, the linkages in the IP are sticking in the run position.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
great info dave i had the same problem with my pump on my 7.3, my college professor told me the same then after 2 good doses of treatment it was fixed. i need a guy that knows as much about VE pumps as you do about these ones lol
Last edited by symonds86; 10-24-2009 at 03:55 PM.
Reason: i cant spell
i have the diesel kleen working away in there right now. so if the truck still does not want to shut down am i out for a new injector pumps or is it possible for the average person to rebuild just the solenoid and linkages?
You can take off the top cover of the IP and check the solenoid and linkages.. Just make sure to slide the cover off toward the flanged side before lifting it off. Same process for installing. If you don't (especailly on install) you won't engage the fuel linkage correctly, and it will start at a very high RPM the next time.
If this isn't right, please correct me. I know that you have to slide the cover on before bolting back together though.
__________________ These are not the Droids you are looking for.....
Current vehicles:
98 Contour 2.0L auto, my new DD 49K 30mpg
2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.8L 6sp auto
1986 F250XL Diesel RC LB 4x4 T19 4spd 4.10's?
If you take the cover off and it is not installed correctly, you can jamb the governor linkage wide open.
Not only will you have a run away engine, but cutting the fuel line or starving the engine for air will be the only way to shut it down.
She'll just keep running faster till she blows.
Proper install procedure.
Reinstalling the governor cover on the IP.
1. Make sure the screws are NOT in the governor cover.
2. Position the cover about 1/4" forward of the final alignment (towards the front of the truck) and about 1/8" above the pump.
3. Move the cover rearward and downward into position so the arm contacts the link being careful not to roll the gasket.
4. With the cover on the pump and before installing the screws, move the cover forward and backward until preload of the internal spring is felt indicating that the engine shut off is not binding internally.
Reinstall the three governor cover screws with one flat washer and one lock washer with each screw. The flat washer must be against the pump cover. Screw with the seal wire hole must be in the rear position of the governor cover. Tighten screws to 40 inch pounds.
NOTE:
The lock washer for the governor cover assembly must be installed between the terminal grounding strap and the governor cover before installing the screw in that corner.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position, and touch the fuel shut off solenoid wire to the solenoid terminal. A clicking sound should be heard as the wire is connected and disconnected.
WARNING:
If the fuel shut off solenoid clicking is not heard, the fuel shut off metering linkage may be jambed in the wide open position.
The engine must not be started if the clicking is not heard, as a run away engine condition may occur, resulting in serious engine damage and possible bodily harm. The engine can not be shut off if it is started with jammed fuel metering linkage.
If fuel shut off solenoid clicking is not heard, do not start the engine and check for a minimum of 10 volts battery voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid connector.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
great info dave i had the same problem with my pump on my 7.3, my college professor told me the same then after 2 good doses of treatment it was fixed. i need a guy that knows as much about VE pumps as you do about these ones lol
dodge/cummins knows some about the VE pumps. I have a pdf of the VE with some good exploded views and descriptions. I can email it to you. PM me with your mail info and I will send. There are some easy power mods on the VE but also easy to overdo.
so far so good. let the diesel kleen sit in there for about a day and its shutting down like it should every time. if the problem comes back ill be sure to take daves advice for checking the mechanical linkage as not not hand grenade the motor. this is definitely one of the most helpful forums iv have had the pleasure of being a part of. hopefully one day ill have the knowledge amassed to help others down the road. as far as people who love these trucks i had a guy offer to buy mine on the spot the other day. couldnt believe the condition of the body and motor. well he wanted my truck and my dog, i thought id be pretty sad without wither of them so i still have my dog and my truck
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